Eibach Lowering Springs Now Available - Review - Chevy Bolt EV Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Eibach Lowering Springs Now Available - Review

I just confirmed with Eibach that their Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs will be shipping in June. I have had this kit on my Bolt EV since February and love it. On my drive home after the installation I was surprised and almost disappointing that the ride was not significantly firmer; but learned that this is a progressive spring; that progressively gets much stiffer through the travel. Thier is significant improvement in handling and braking. I have successfully won the www.driveusca.com EV Class Autocross and Tracking my Bolt EV running these springs. I commute 100 Miles round trip in my Bolt EV along Southern California Highways and have found the ride to be great. The ride height is lowered .9" in the front and 1" in the rear. Rarely do I have to worry about scraping on driveways, speed-bumps or road debris.

I only had my Bolt for a few months before they were installed so have no data on increased range. Theoretically improved aerodynamics due to lowered ride height should net some improved range.

For my racing and track day purposes I am looking forward to the BC-Racing complete coil-over system that will launch late June. For great looks and improved handling these Eibach Springs have been great.

I am now accepting orders for this kit:

https://ev-mods.com/collections/chev...op-coming-soon
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:19 PM
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I ran my EV on track for a track night recently... I noticed that after some time on the track (we ran 20 min. sessions) I was seeing less than full acceleration. Unfortunately I wasn't running a logger via the OBDII so I don't know what temperatures I was seeing or why the car wasn't using full power for acceleration. Wondering if you've seen this issue at all when you were out on track. At the start of the session I'd see 144kW on acceleration, but later a full WOT acceleration would go up to 120 and then decline sometimes settling at 70-80 kW.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I experienced the same thing. I was monitoring a logger but was too excited and did not record. Battery Temperatures were within range. Engine/Transmission got hot over 230*. It seemed their was a correlation to engine over 200* and reduced power. Also a guy on youtube did correlation between battery charge and peak KW output. It was not very scientific but confirmed what I thought. As soon as you drop to 80* full charge power starts reducing linearly down to about 50% Charge.

I know a guy... Who is working on a performance tune for the Bolt EV that should help with a lot of this! For example the shutters could be opened sooner to start cooling earlier. This would not be ideal on cold days on the street becuase the battery also needs heat to be in ideal range; but knowing you are about to go flog it on a track, cooling faster earlier would help significantly... Also some potential power gains coming.

On my 3rd-4th Track Session I was below 50% Charge and engine over 200* and I was way down on power. I think I saw a peak 129kw. That is down almost 20% or 40 Horsepower! Next www.driveusca.com I will be bringing a big generator and nitrous cooling fans.

I also learned from some engineer friends who ran a Hyundai IoniQ with a Kona Engine that the engine temp is more a limiting factor than battery.

I also knew to not run in L. Reducing Regenerative Braking reduces engine temp and battery temps. This is why I spent thousands developing a big brake kit. The Regen System reduces the need for the mechanical brake systems thermal capacity; the braking force energy is turned to heat/energy through the motor / battery rather than stored in the brake rotors. When driving competitively over the normal intent of the systems you need more thermal capacity at the rotors / caliper / pads. I also left foot trail brake often to balance the car through corners and generate a limited slip effect on corner exit.

I am going to try some Redline Watter Wetter or the likes in the different cooling circuits to see if any benefit. If that does not work I may look for an aftermarket bigger radiator for the engine circuit.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by EV-MODS View Post
Yes, I experienced the same thing. I was monitoring a logger but was too excited and did not record. Battery Temperatures were within range. Engine/Transmission got hot over 230*. It seemed their was a correlation to engine over 200* and reduced power. Also a guy on youtube did correlation between battery charge and peak KW output. It was not very scientific but confirmed what I thought. As soon as you drop to 80* full charge power starts reducing linearly down to about 50% Charge.

I know a guy... Who is working on a performance tune for the Bolt EV that should help with a lot of this! For example the shutters could be opened sooner to start cooling earlier. This would not be ideal on cold days on the street becuase the battery also needs heat to be in ideal range; but knowing you are about to go flog it on a track, cooling faster earlier would help significantly... Also some potential power gains coming.

On my 3rd-4th Track Session I was below 50% Charge and engine over 200* and I was way down on power. I think I saw a peak 129kw. That is down almost 20% or 40 Horsepower! Next www.driveusca.com I will be bringing a big generator and nitrous cooling fans.

I also learned from some engineer friends who ran a Hyundai IoniQ with a Kona Engine that the engine temp is more a limiting factor than battery.

I also knew to not run in L. Reducing Regenerative Braking reduces engine temp and battery temps. This is why I spent thousands developing a big brake kit. The Regen System reduces the need for the mechanical brake systems thermal capacity; the braking force energy is turned to heat/energy through the motor / battery rather than stored in the brake rotors. When driving competitively over the normal intent of the systems you need more thermal capacity at the rotors / caliper / pads. I also left foot trail brake often to balance the car through corners and generate a limited slip effect on corner exit.

I am going to try some Redline Watter Wetter or the likes in the different cooling circuits to see if any benefit. If that does not work I may look for an aftermarket bigger radiator for the engine circuit.
Thanks for the insight. I did run in L, and after reading what you wrote (and had I thought about it more), I wish I hadn't now. My main reason was because the stock pads did not like to slow me down enough into the 90* corner after holding 92 MPH (limiter) down the back straight. I suspect if I had at least better pads I would have run in D and noticed an improvement. The track I'm at isn't punishing on brakes. One long high speed brake point from 92 to ~60 and the others are 70ish to 40ish with plenty of time between needing the brakes... they get cooled off effectively such that a bigger mass isn't needed for any car I've run out there. I instructed for a newbie in a Model 3 that night as well. The car was impressive, and didn't seem to suffer the same performance loss over a session as I did, but he also had more SOC on the battery than I did. We shared a Tesla charger on site at the track (I have a TeslaTap), but he arrived with more SOC than I.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by EV-MODS View Post
Yes, I experienced the same thing. I was monitoring a logger but was too excited and did not record. Battery Temperatures were within range. Engine/Transmission got hot over 230*. It seemed their was a correlation to engine over 200* and reduced power. Also a guy on youtube did correlation between battery charge and peak KW output. It was not very scientific but confirmed what I thought. As soon as you drop to 80* full charge power starts reducing linearly down to about 50% Charge.

I know a guy... Who is working on a performance tune for the Bolt EV that should help with a lot of this! For example the shutters could be opened sooner to start cooling earlier. This would not be ideal on cold days on the street becuase the battery also needs heat to be in ideal range; but knowing you are about to go flog it on a track, cooling faster earlier would help significantly... Also some potential power gains coming.

On my 3rd-4th Track Session I was below 50% Charge and engine over 200* and I was way down on power. I think I saw a peak 129kw. That is down almost 20% or 40 Horsepower! Next www.driveusca.com I will be bringing a big generator and nitrous cooling fans.

I also learned from some engineer friends who ran a Hyundai IoniQ with a Kona Engine that the engine temp is more a limiting factor than battery.

I also knew to not run in L. Reducing Regenerative Braking reduces engine temp and battery temps. This is why I spent thousands developing a big brake kit. The Regen System reduces the need for the mechanical brake systems thermal capacity; the braking force energy is turned to heat/energy through the motor / battery rather than stored in the brake rotors. When driving competitively over the normal intent of the systems you need more thermal capacity at the rotors / caliper / pads. I also left foot trail brake often to balance the car through corners and generate a limited slip effect on corner exit.

I am going to try some Redline Watter Wetter or the likes in the different cooling circuits to see if any benefit. If that does not work I may look for an aftermarket bigger radiator for the engine circuit.

I'd be very careful about introducing any foreign material to a coolant loop. At least one of the cooling loops exclusively uses distilled water. Any ions in solution in that loop will allow conductivity in a system that should not conduct electricity. It will, at a minimum throw an error code.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:00 AM
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I am going to try some Redline Watter Wetter or the likes in the different cooling circuits to see if any benefit. If that does not work I may look for an aftermarket bigger radiator for the engine circuit.
As GregBrew suggested, and I think it was drdiesel1 who said specifically, the Bolt checks the coolant loops for conductivity. They don't want any path for electricity there.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:13 AM
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I wish you had range improvement data. I live in an area with windy days much of the time that eat into range... I could really use some aero help.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:15 AM
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Engine/Transmission got hot over 230*. It seemed there was a correlation to engine over 200* and reduced power.

I know a guy... Who is working on a performance tune for the Bolt EV that should help with a lot of this! For example the shutters could be opened sooner to start cooling earlier.
I was going to say a bigger radiator wouldn't be much help. But if you are seeing power electronics at 230 F you might see a benefit. You guys are really flogging the Bolt. I haven't seen the motor/gearbox temp over 150 F on our Bolt.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-18-2019, 10:32 AM
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Ok boys, I'm taking names now. I can bet who is going to be complaining about their Bolts having problems in the future...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-20-2019, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ok boys, I'm taking names now. I can bet who is going to be complaining about their Bolts having problems in the future...
Good point here. Some individuals should not modify their vehicles or use them at their limits; with that said, many people are able to asses potential risk and potential for accelerated wear in favor of a greatly enhanced driving experience and/or unique expression through their vehicle. Also many aftermarket parts can improve longevity, efficiencies and performance. Thanks to the Magnuson-Moss Act OEM's are unable to void your warranty if a modification does not directly contribute to a specific warranty issue. Thankfully if you are not breaking any law or participating in activities that would void your warranty their are no laws that say you can not smile while enjoying the performance of your vehicle.
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