My creaking sound experience - Chevy Bolt EV Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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My creaking sound experience

Not long after the expiration of the 36k bumper-to-bumper warranty, my 17 Bolt developed a creaking sound. Over the next 20k or so miles it became quite pronounced when accelerating 0-5 mph as well as decelerating, typically in "L mode" from 5 - 0 MPH.


At 67k, a couple weeks ago, it finally wore me out, so I left the Bolt at the dealer for a week while out of town.


They retorqued the front axle nuts and charged me only their standard diag fee of $100


So far, so good - blessed silence has returned.


Just FYI - relating my experience.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 01:28 AM
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Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.

2017 Summit White Bolt LT, VIN #83351, built 8/2017 (real range anxiety now).
2017 Kinetic Blue Volt LT, VIN #11925, built 6/2016. (loved it, only fake range anxiety, but traded due to annoying misfires)
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by quirkySquirt View Post
Doesn't sound too bad for a diag fee. Wonder if it's an easy enough fix to do yourself. I'd still probably ask the dealer to do it, though.
That's what I was wondering. Anyone know how easy those bolts are to get to; can you get to them from underneath with, for example, ramps? If so, I could easily check torque if I end up with this problem and torque to spec.

Mike
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:16 AM
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Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:17 AM
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Anyone notice rattling or creaking elsewhere ? I do notice a center of console creaking but on if I rest my arm on it firmly.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:24 AM
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Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.
That helps, thanks. I guess that would require removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor?

Mike
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wrillo View Post
Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.
That helps, thanks. I guess that would require removal of the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor?

Mike
You can get to it through the rotor. Just the wheel. You have to figure out how to keep it still while you torque it though. I think there is a special tool to do it, but you should be able to just keep the other front tire on the ground and torque against the transmission.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by wrillo View Post
Ramps won't work because you'll need to remove the wheel. The axle nut is the one that holds the CV shaft to the hub assembly.



Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 03:14 PM
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Had that same exact problem with my 2014 Volt just before I traded it in for the Bolt in 2017.
Same fix as well, re-torque the front axle nut (on both sides)... instant fix, and I was able to do it without removing the wheel... just removed the hub cap and the large socket just did fit in there. Nice 2 min fix to an annoying problem!
they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 03:43 PM
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they don't put cotter pins on these anymore? seem to remember torqueing down to seat the bearing and backing off the nut and putting in a cotter pin. without a cotter pin, no wonder they get loose.
Yeah, I did that dozens of times on older rear wheel drive cars. I think the difference is: those aren't axle nuts but instead are just wheel hub nuts that only need to be tightened to the point that they held the wheel bearings in. Those weren't tightened/torqued but were rather just turned until they took up any slack on the wheel bearings, hence the need for the cotter pins.

Mike
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