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Discussion Starter #1
1000 watt PTC Heater in Air Filter slot produces 80 degree F vent air using recirc- increases range 1 mile per kWh WINTER RANGE

Bottom line ...You CAN add 55+ miles of range(usable from Bolts 60kWh battery) (or rather prevent the loss of 55 miles) and do it for less than $150 and stay relatively warm. (80-degree air through vent ..probably 60-65 in the car(I'll locate my thermometer to check...but it was plenty warm..not HOT like the car's heater gets obviously think hotter than luke warm

I tried various settings and the best setting is (at Zero degree F) is : temp set to "LO" , heat/ac off and recirc ON. Just as you see in the Photo below..and Vent temp is 80 ..going down the road.


Range: 2.2 Using the Bolts Heater
Range: 3.2 Using the PTC heater in the air filter Vent


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I noticed a melting smell and pulled the heater ...had specks of melted plastic



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Put my hand down the slot to see if I could locate the part melting... (so this dumbarse) I dinged my fingers this so you don't need too !!


****..had the fan still running ouch.. anyway it was a fan blade.


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So the fan blades are less than 1 inch below the air filter slot so slide the Heater in with Fins facing UP ..not Down !!

Your welcome lol

No melting facing up


This is the right heater..

33472


and the Inverter I am using

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Dan

EVCOUNTS.com
 

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Discussion Starter #2
IT WORKS ..and Soooo nice to have all the heat coming from the vents like "normal" instead of just the space heater I was using. The space heater because it is in the car you can get some really hot air pointing right at you but the heat wasn't even throughout the car.


and NO Window Fogging!


This REALLY works everyone. and you will see a 1-mile increase of range /kWh -or if you prefer you will stop the loss of 1 mile/kWh.


For me driving uber/Lyft this is really big...for those of you that have short commutes or only drive a few days a week, this Mod will not make much sense to you.


For Uber/Lyft drivers, for drivers will long commutes etc... DO IT !

It's a cheap mod that actually works, will reduce your winter range anxiety and the gains are huge.. 30% for less than $150
 

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1000 watt PTC Heater in Air Filter slot produces 80 degree F vent air using recirc- increases range 1 mile per kWh WINTER RANGE

I tried various settings and the best setting is (at Zero degree F) is : temp set to "LO" , heat/ac off and recirc ON. Just as you see in the Photo below..and Vent temp is 80 ..going down the road.

Range: 2.2 Using the Bolts Heater
Range: 3.2 Using the PTC heater in the air filter Vent

No melting facing up
That is friggin' awesome. You are the man. Seems like, with the HVAC button off/unlit, it shouldn't matter where you have the temp knob set.

Sorry about your fingers. Anything for science. :cool:
 

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Did you find a place under the hood to mount the inverter?

I wonder how this would compare with using four 200w 12v PTCs, each with 12ga. wire, or two 400w 12v PTCs with 8ga wire. I'd been thinking of running the bundles of wire towards the battery, and connecting them through bimetal circuit breakers (which could be used as "off switches" once temps reach 40F).


nd
 

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Discussion Starter #5
recirc is the key guys.. Vent Temp was 63 degrees (going down the road) when recirc was off. (pulling ZERO degree outside air across the heater). Recirc you get the inside air that keeps getting pulled across the heater. I thought I was going to have a fog issue using the recirc but apparently, it's pulling enough outside air through as well.


I am officially done with the Mod... It works, may not be the best at 20 below but at zero it's fine, and the normal winter temp for us at this time of year is 28 degrees.. thinking should be able be to get the interior up to 75-80 then.
 

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recirc is the key guys.. Vent Temp was 63 degrees (going down the road) when recirc was off. (pulling ZERO degree outside air across the heater). Recirc you get the inside air that keeps getting pulled across the heater. I thought I was going to have a fog issue using the recirc but apparently, it's pulling enough outside air through as well.


I am officially done with the Mod... It works, may not be the best at 20 below but at zero it's fine, and the normal winter temp for us at this time of year is 28 degrees.. thinking should be able be to get the interior up to 75-80 then.
I'd still suggest a power relay activated off the fan power. You may never forget, but look at your fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OMG .... My head is already spinning on getting air conditioning for summer..

The numbers needed

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33481

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:)


dang ...now going to be hard to get to sleep lol
 

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So OneEV, did you just replace the cabin air filter with the heat strip in a frame?
And maybe a pic showing mounting the inverter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So OneEV, did you just replace the cabin air filter with the heat strip in a frame?
And maybe a pic showing mounting the inverter.
YES , remove the air filter , mount the heater on 8x 9/12 (same size as filter) 1/8th inch wood (obviously cut hole out for the actual fins heating elements) and simply slide in. You'll still be able to close the Glove box..

You all know the air filter is behind the glove box ?



INVERTER is also just screwed down onto a 1/2 piece of wood and sits in the "engine" compartment next to the battery. Thought about bring the Invertor in the Cabin for extra heat but you really want it as close to the Battery as possible so it is as efficient as possible..besides the fan motor on the inverter probably drive you nuts anyways ;)
 

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Thanks; one other ?: did the PTC heater come with a spec sheet listing its "target temperature"? As you described, a PTC is self-regulated to heat to a temperature which is fixed in the design/at the factory. I'm thinking it might be prudent to look for one with a bit lower temperature, because of that melting plastic you had.
 

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Thanks; one other ?: did the PTC heater come with a spec sheet listing its "target temperature"? As you described, a PTC is self-regulated to heat to a temperature which is fixed in the design/at the factor. I'm thinking it might be prudent to look for one with a bit lower temperature, because of that melting plastic you had.
Anything warm enough to notice is going to melt plastic. You need to keep it far enough away...and use a fan activated relay to make sure you don't start the car on fire!!!
 

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I drive to Northern Virginia (280 miles away) fairly regularly and a gain of 1 mile per KW would be significant to me. My first car was a VW Beetle and I still can't get a car warm enough for me in the winter time. I already have 1,200 watt inverter already mounted on top of the "engine" and have ordered the heater. What blower setting are you using?
 

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Can I be skeptical here?

Show me energy used, miles, and the pie chart after driving 40-50 kWh of the battery. Then I will make my own decision if it really works.
I learnt one valuable lesson years ago - trust, but verify.

Any way to slide it somewhere near the heater core so that you are actually not warming it up? You see, the heater core is filled with cold liquid. In your case it will be a few degrees higher than ambient, so your initial hot air will be used to warm up the heater core. Then, without your approval, the coolant will start flowing freely in the system loosing all heat to the ambient. While it will not flow through the pump, it will use convection inside the about 1/2" tubing. Wide enough to create two layers of liquid and transfer the heat outside.
 

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Can I be skeptical here?

Show me energy used, miles, and the pie chart after driving 40-50 kWh of the battery. Then I will make my own decision if it really works.
I learnt one valuable lesson years ago - trust, but verify.

Any way to slide it somewhere near the heater core so that you are actually not warming it up? You see, the heater core is filled with cold liquid. In your case it will be a few degrees higher than ambient, so your initial hot air will be used to warm up the heater core. Then, without your approval, the coolant will start flowing freely in the system loosing all heat to the ambient. While it will not flow through the pump, it will use convection inside the about 1/2" tubing. Wide enough to create two layers of liquid and transfer the heat outside.
What I've seen about the Bolt EV's Energy Usage screen is that it doesn't clearly and consistently account for the energy drawn from the 12 V battery (which is what is powering the heater cores). I suppose it's possible that if the 12 V battery is only being recharged when you're plugged into a charger drawing juice from the grid, then there could be a real gain. Otherwise, you're mostly just shifting the energy burden to a different place.

Now, the recirculation trick is something that works even without these additional PTC heaters in the vents, so I don't know how much additional benefit these heater cores provide.
 

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Why not just spend $5 on some heater hose and ball valves, and plumb the hot water coming out of the motor through the heater core? This will get you similar temps without taking anything apart and is easily disabled in summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Can I be skeptical here?

Show me energy used, miles, and the pie chart after driving 40-50 kWh of the battery. Then I will make my own decision if it really works.
I learnt one valuable lesson years ago - trust, but verify.

Any way to slide it somewhere near the heater core so that you are actually not warming it up? You see, the heater core is filled with cold liquid. In your case it will be a few degrees higher than ambient, so your initial hot air will be used to warm up the heater core. Then, without your approval, the coolant will start flowing freely in the system loosing all heat to the ambient. While it will not flow through the pump, it will use convection inside the about 1/2" tubing. Wide enough to create two layers of liquid and transfer the heat outside.
Really? Really Thomas ..after all, we have been through you still doubt me..oh yee of little faith 😁

I have shown a 1 Mile difference in all of my threads, it's right in front of you you just have to open your eyes.



Again..just look you'll see where I turned the Cars heater ron



33499
 

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Why not just spend $5 on some heater hose and ball valves, and plumb the hot water coming out of the motor through the heater core? This will get you similar temps without taking anything apart and is easily disabled in summer.
That sounds good as well. Would you have a diagram or picture of how the heater hoses could be replumbed?
 

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Why not just spend $5 on some heater hose and ball valves, and plumb the hot water coming out of the motor through the heater core? This will get you similar temps without taking anything apart and is easily disabled in summer.
What hot water?

this hot water barely hits 20 deg C on so cold days... so the answer is no, it is pointless.

Again, electric cars do not waste any heat due to friction or propulsion. I say nothing as it is so little comparing to petrol cars that it is barely noticeable in sense of energy recuperation.
 
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