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Discussion Starter #201
The ON button is for the recirculate flap, and fan too, not just the HVAC. As long as the orange light for the HVAC is off on the touchscreen, it doesn't matter where you set the temperature knob, the HVAC is off.

Don't tell me you haven't got Torque Pro? If you did, you would know this!

Just went out and took these two shots. Sorry for the overhead light glare on the touchscreen. That was the only way the orange lights on the touch screen would show up.

View attachment 33818 View attachment 33819
Actually yes I have torgue Pro and have tested it multiple times... do me a favor drive down the road with the settings you display... For me every now and then the Cabin Heat jumps up to 7500 watts...5000 watts etc.. and then it may be a zero for 10 minutes..then goes up again...when I have it set a "LO" ..never happens.. thats why I suggest "LO"


Interesting to see if that happens with you as well on "HI" or any heat setting with the heat/ac off like you have....


I'm going to go out right now and test again
 

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Actually yes I have torgue Pro and have tested it multiple times... do me a favor drive down the road with the settings you display... For me every now and then the Cabin Heat jumps up to 7500 watts...5000 watts etc.. and then it may be a zero for 10 minutes..then goes up again...when I have it set a "LO" ..never happens.. thats why I suggest "LO"


Interesting to see if that happens with you as well on "HI" or any heat setting with the heat/ac off like you have....


I'm going to go out right now and test again
Is the default "defog" setting turned to off in the "vehicle settings" in your Bolt? If not, the AC and heat will turn on whenever the relative humidity sensor behind the rearview mirror calls for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Is the default "defog" setting turned to off in the "vehicle settings" in your Bolt? If not, the AC and heat will turn on whenever the relative humidity sensor behind the rearview mirror calls for it.
default defog? you mean the "Auto" button? Yeah it's off.


I figured out what's going... Before when it was freezing out 15 below zero I would pulse the Cars heater once in a while.. well when I would turn the heat/ac OFF ...and the Temp was till at 70 (wouldn't have nattered 70, LO , HI) I would glance at Torque and see 75,00 or whatever ... so what I was seeing was simply thedelay..uto 30 seconds from when you switch the heat off before the watts fall (or at least disappear from Torque display)...so I was assuming that for whatever reason with the heat TEMP set above "LO" ( that it was somehow still drawing energy)...so thats why I was saying just set to LO


Bottom line.. you are correct .. can set at LO , 7, HI makes no difference as long as the Heat/AC switch is off.



I tested it again..and yes Cabin stays at ZER watts



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A Nice 4.7 for that little 5 mile run
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Running the heater using this power strip works out great because when I start to pull to many watts ... like turning on all the Heated seats and turning the Fan on high etc... the Power Liht flickers..andits cool because if I am just slightly pulling to much it just lightly flickers, pulling way too much it flickers too fast... Pulling more thna it cna handle it trips and turn off.

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Not a big deal now because I know how many things I can run but it was actually pretty useful gauge for setting and testing what I could run and what I couldn't
 

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The ON button is for the recirculate flap, and fan too, not just the HVAC. As long as the orange light for the HVAC is off on the touchscreen, it doesn't matter where you set the temperature knob, the HVAC is off.
I'm not convinced this is quite true. For example, if you press the "Auto" button so that everything is set to automatic operation, and then press the "Heat & A/C" button to turn off the heater and A/C, all the other stuff (recirc, vent selection, fan speed) stay on Auto. So I've always assumed that they still operate to try to maintain whatever temperature is set even though the heater or A/C won't come on.

For example, if the cabin is warm and the outside is cold, I assume that a high temperature setting would set "Auto Recirc" to recirculate cabin air to try to retain cabin heat, while a low temperature setting would cause it to bring in outside air in order to cool the cabin down.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
I'm not convinced this is quite true. For example, if you press the "Auto" button so that everything is set to automatic operation, and then press the "Heat & A/C" button to turn off the heater and A/C, all the other stuff (recirc, vent selection, fan speed) stay on Auto. So I've always assumed that they still operate to try to maintain whatever temperature is set even though the heater or A/C won't come on.

For example, if the cabin is warm and the outside is cold, I assume that a high temperature setting would set "Auto Recirc" to recirculate cabin air to try to retain cabin heat, while a low temperature setting would cause it to bring in outside air in order to cool the cabin down.
OK ..I thought something similar as well Sean.. I've tested before and the heat does keep coming through the vents..but then stops... I don't recall off hand ..a couple of minutes or something... another go-test situation.. I'm done for the day...I'll double check that as well tomorrow.. or someone else
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Here is a link to the inverter. It fits very nicely under the floormat at front part of the passenger footwell: Amazon.com: Kinverch 2000W Continuous/ 4000W Peak Power Inverter 3 AC Outlets 12V to 110V Car Converter with USB Port and Bluetooth APP Remote Control: Car Electronics

Here is a link to the 4AWG wire used to connect to the battery:

Here is a link to the current guage used to keep up with the current draw and voltage in the 12-volt battery
Hey Phuber can you take a Photo of the correct way to hook this meter up TIA

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I'm not convinced this is quite true. For example, if you press the "Auto" button so that everything is set to automatic operation, and then press the "Heat & A/C" button to turn off the heater and A/C, all the other stuff (recirc, vent selection, fan speed) stay on Auto.
I have never used Auto. The light on the knob is off and stays off. I turn the fan up, down, or off with the fan buttons. I open or close the recirculate flap with its button. I turn the HVAC on and off with its button, and turn the temperature up and down with the temperature knob. Everything works like it did in my 1993 Nissan Sentra, except for the AC coming on with the heat, and visa versa.

I find that running the temperature knob all the way up to heat, or all the way down to cool, and periodically turning the HVAC button on or off to maintain comfort, has the AC and heat fighting each other the least. It is a pain in the butt. I wish I had the separate buttons like later Bolts.
 

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I have never used Auto. The light on the knob is off and stays off. I turn the fan up, down, or off with the fan buttons. I open or close the recirculate flap with its button. I turn the HVAC on and off with its button, and turn the temperature up and down with the temperature knob. Everything works like it did in my 1993 Nissan Sentra, except for the AC coming on with the heat, and visa versa.

I find that running the temperature knob all the way up to heat, or all the way down to cool, and periodically turning the HVAC button on or off to maintain comfort, has the AC and heat fighting each other the least. It is a pain in the butt. I wish I had the separate buttons like later Bolts.
I also wish we could have partial recirc without hacksawing - according to the service manual, the door appears to always be full-open or full-closed.

So I just pop between defog and no defog in those cases where things start fogging up - run defog for a bit, then once things are clear, go back to just main and floor vents. (If recirc is on but defog is also on, this disables recirc without any indication.)

Of course ideally instead of messing with minimizing external air, ideally we'd have an HRV to expel humid air while retaining heat, or a dehumidifier. I'm not sure if a dehumidifier could practically get the dew point low enough, I need to figure out the PID for relative humidity. (It's not in Telek's lists as far as I can tell, but is available via GDS2 so I can hopefully figure out the PID with some bus sniffing.)
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Prof. Kelly video showing PTC heater for Model S.

Cool ! Thanks GJetson.. and you can buy them on Ebay .. $165 ..reading afew Tesla Forums install is pretty easy as well. Msat of the posts I see say 4-5 watts .. but still looking for posts to see how many watts when set on "Low"..


33885
 

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Cool ! Thanks GJetson.. and you can buy them on Ebay .. $165 ..reading afew Tesla Forums install is pretty easy as well. Msat of the posts I see say 4-5 watts .. but still looking for posts to see how many watts when set on "Low"..
Don't get too excited. Those Tesla heaters, like the Leaf PTC heater, run on 400 volts. On 120 volts it probably won't melt butter.

Uses a max of 6-8 kW, not watts. I assume that was a typo on your part.

 

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Discussion Starter #214
Don't get too excited. Those Tesla heaters, like the Leaf PTC heater, run on 400 volts. On 12 volts it probably won't melt butter.

And they are talking 4-5 kW, not watts. I assume that was a typo on your part.
Typ0 Yep...

It really isn't about What we use to Heat whether PTC , heat pump etc.. but having the ability to regulate how much energy is being used.

BTW.. my heater set up is working great. Heat is really strong now that we are in the 20,30's, '40s. I start off in the morning with recirc on and by the time we get to 33-35it gets too hot inside so then just PTC with recirc off. The extra range is really coming in handy.
 

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Typ0 Yep...
I just ran the Tesla PTC heater numbers through an online calculator. At 400 V, a 7500 watt maximum heater would need a resistance of 21.33 ohms, and use 18.75 amps. The same heater on 120 volts would only use 5.625 amps, and put out 675 watts maximum.

 

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OneEV, thank you for your great idea. I finally was able to try out your concept in my car and the little heater did a great job of warming up the car and keeping me toasty. It was not very cold outside but I can certainly see where this would make a difference in my winter range. I appreciate your thinking through this option and sharing it with us.
 

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Discussion Starter #217
OneEV, thank you for your great idea. I finally was able to try out your concept in my car and the little heater did a great job of warming up the car and keeping me toasty. It was not very cold outside but I can certainly see where this would make a difference in my winter range. I appreciate your thinking through this option and sharing it with us.
Appreciate it Phuber..

So to make it warmer for really cold weather ..(5 below type weather) . I'm going to try and make an insulated enclosed for the Car's heater/electronics. Then the cold outside air passes through the inlet into the insulated enclosure(the temps inside the enclosure should be above 100 degrees based on how hot those pieces get) then that warm air gets pulled through the ptc heater.

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Hoping to get an extra 20+ degrees of heat bring vent temp up to 100 degrees from 70-80 on -5 degree days.


Right now at 30 Degrees outside the PTC with recirc on is putting out 94-degree vent heat ... it's actually too hot for a 30-degree day but should be just about perfect for a -5 day



A bit of a nightmare trying to enclose that mess..

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I'll probably start of with a hillbilly set up using styrofoam to make enclosure ..

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