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Considering how cheap insulating this component would have costed, I would really be surprised it can make a difference.
Did you do measurements? Any significant results?
I do not have any way of measuring the difference as there are so many variables involved. It is like building a light weight bike. If a person pays attention to every little detail, they eventually add up toward our goal. Individually, one change may not make that much difference but they do when you combine them.
 

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Lol. Try riding recumbent bicycles for thirty years. I tell folks I am faster, and more comfortable, on my recumbents than I am on my road bikes. They tell me I am wrong. I remember riding on an organized T-shirt ride once. I was riding along side a kid twenty years younger than me, and more muscular. We discussed recumbent vs upright for an hour. At one point I pulled ahead of him on a climb as he was telling me that recumbents simply couldn't climb, because you couldn't use your arms. I was riding no hands, pumping my knees up and down with my arms. :ROFLMAO:
No doubt about it, recumbents, when mastered, are so much more comfortable and often faster. Big difference is your back and neck are supported vs upright. In our bike club, integration of recumbents/road bikes is discouraged because of the different characteristics. Road bikes glide easier but recumbents stop on a dime, resulting in some somersaulting mishaps when in-line. Here in the wild of Florida, the biggest disadvantage for the recumbent guys is that they are eye to eye level with some wicked critters.:oops:
 

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Road bikes glide easier but recumbents stop on a dime, resulting in some somersaulting mishaps when in-line.

Here in the wild of Florida, the biggest disadvantage for the recumbent guys is that they are eye to eye level with some wicked critters.:oops:
Not sure what you mean by glide better. Have you ridden with any high racer riders? You need to go see The Man, John Schlitter.


I have passed many road bikes, even with riders on TT bars, on downhills. And yes, most recumbents will out stop an upright. Not a problem in Florida, but the only drawback of a recumbent is the 10% lower maximum power output in the supine position. It is swamped by the aero advantage on flats, wind, and downhill. But uphill there is no overcoming the power drop. That is where electric assist makes recumbents the perfect vehicle....maintain the aero advantage uphill too!

The eyes of a high racer rider are at the same level as an upright rider on the drops.

34202


Of course, if a dog is coming at you, you probably would sit up. lol But having crashed both styles of bike, the only time I ever broke bones was a dog running into my front wheel on a road bike. Falling from that high was not helpful.
 

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Not sure what you mean by glide better. Have you ridden with any high racer riders? You need to go see The Man, John Schlitter.


I have passed many road bikes, even with riders on TT bars, on downhills. And yes, most recumbents will out stop an upright. Not a problem in Florida, but the only drawback of a recumbent is the 10% lower maximum power output in the supine position. It is swamped by the aero advantage on flats, wind, and downhill. But uphill there is no overcoming the power drop. That is where electric assist makes recumbents the perfect vehicle....maintain the aero advantage uphill too!

The eyes of a high racer rider are at the same level as an upright rider on the drops.

View attachment 34202

Of course, if a dog is coming at you, you probably would sit up. lol But having crashed both styles of bike, the only time I ever broke bones was a dog running into my front wheel on a road bike. Falling from that high was not helpful.
That number 2 looks the most comfortable (for me) but a long way to fall. Don't think you could save even if you unclip fast enough.
 

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That number 2 looks the most comfortable (for me) but a long way to fall. Don't think you could save even if you unclip fast enough.
The seat on that bike is 24"-26" high, as opposed to the 39" on my road bike. That extra foot is huge! I can put both feet down faster on my recumbents than on my road bike, because I don't have to slide off the seat first. I've done it many times over the last 30 years.

Try unclipping both feet simultaneously on your road bike, and see what happens. o_O
 

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#1 mode is the best. Most aero and closest to the ground. I had a front tire go flat at 45 mph wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I got lots of road rash but was very thankful not to have needed any stitches or broken any bones. Not sure that would have happened in any other configuration. I also agree on the stopping ability.
 

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@MisterJJ I hear you, I bought a Tax Flux2 trainer just for that reason. In nice weather I find riding in my neighborhood after 9AM is the best, school traffic is over and folks have gone to the office (or working at home) and not as many headed to stores. I also ride motorcycles and scooters and that is tough enough. I watch carefully and some vehicles bear more watching than others! In my neighborhood roads are curvy and hilly so drivers need to pay attention or are off the road so not as much distracted driving but have lots of aggressive drivers. I have fallen off of my bicycle when I couldn't get my shoes unclipped! 5 years ago wrecked a scooter in Italy at 15mph. Coming out of a hairpin a bus was on my side swinging wide for the hairpin. Dodged the bus but clipped right bar on rock wall! another inch and may have made it! Shattered kneecap, concussion, scrapes and cuts. Got to ride in a tiny Italian ambulance and go to a tiny hospital (Island of Capri). Got knee fixed in the US but since then have stopped wearing clip-in shoes. Knee repair recovery was painful!

I read somewhere that with distracted drivers they do better with gradual stops and acceleration. If someone is behind you slowing gradually rather than stopping abruptly is better. If I see someone behind me working the phone I'll slow down (slowly) to give myself more space in front and get over and out of the way when possible and let someone else play bumper car with them.
 

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I guess you really know how to pick the winners!
Yup. All small, no automatic nothing cars. Three cylinder, two stroke Saab 96, Sunbeam Tiger, MGA roadster, two door 1972 Datsun 510 sedan, 1973 510 wagon, 1980 faux woody 510 wagon, two door 1993 Nissan Sentra E sedan, 2017 Chevy Bolt LT with DC fast charge, and heated seats.
 

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Yup. All small, no automatic nothing cars. Three cylinder, two stroke Saab 96, Sunbeam Tiger, MGA roadster, two door 1972 Datsun 510 sedan, 1973 510 wagon, 1980 faux woody 510 wagon, two door 1993 Nissan Sentra E sedan, 2017 Chevy Bolt LT with DC fast charge, and heated seats.
That is an interesting assortment of clown cars...

My first car was a project car, '67 Mustang GT 500 that I bought for $300 from a junkyard and dropped a 427 Big Block and transmission in it, had it painted, drove it close to 100K miles, and sold it for $5k. That car would be worth $200-300k these days in good condition. It was a fantastic college car and made the trips from San Diego to N. Arizona fun, including a couple of times running it up to 140MPH between Yuma and El Centro.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
Back on Topic... Still using PTC Heater every day. Really nice getting extra range and not needing to turn on the car's heater. No problems at all, no melting no overheating ...keeps the car toasty in these 25-40 degree days.

Won't need it later today or the whole week as we move into the 60's and 70's so I will use this warm weather to start working on Encapsulating the electronics in the "engine bay"...

Think Balloon with all the electronics inside.. I want to use the heat generated by the electronics and using the vent inlet to pull that warm air in through the heat .. so next winter on say a negative 10 degree day instead of pulling in -10 air through the ptc heater ..I'd be using the heat from the electronics ..40-50 degrees? so instead of 80-degree vent heat ..would be putting out 100-110 degrees..so instead of lukewarm on those really cold days the car would be toasty warm just like using the regular heater
 

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I want to use the heat generated by the electronics and using the vent inlet to pull that warm air in through the heat .. so next winter on say a negative 10 degree day instead of pulling in -10 air through the ptc heater
It seems it would be easier to put diverter valves in the electronics coolant loop lines, and routine that coolant through the heater core, on its way to the radiator, since you aren't using the tankless heater anyway. The only reason for valves would be to take the heater core out of the loop in nice weather.

Electronics Coolant Loop.jpg

If you don't use the tankless heater, you can get by with two valves, instead of four.

[edit] Put them in the line from the motor/trans cooler to the side of the coolant reservoir. That way you get the coolant before it loses heat in the reservoir, and pump, and it is a shorter 20" straight shot to the firewall heater passthrough.

Two valves, something like this would work.

 

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But in this age of driver distraction, there are no guarantees.
Loud kits and bright LED's are sometimes not enough unfortunately.
I never liked riding with traffic. Feels safer to see traffic approaching me and even more so with the texting issue. But that's not likely to change.

Looks like there are many rear-warning radar systems for cycling now. That could help.
 

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That is why group riding on road is considered safer. More visibility.
Even group side by side riding is preferred.
But in this age of driver distraction, there are no guarantees.
Loud kits and bright LED's are sometimes not enough unfortunately.
I have been a cyclist for 50 years and I can assure you, pace lines, and riding 2-3 abreast are accidents waiting to happen. In the last decade here in Virginia, there have been several road rage incidents where drivers deliberately plowed into groups "blocking the road."
 
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