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Anyone do a test to see what it reads? Typical car battery are around 12.5 when car is off and 14.0 when car is running.
 

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A new toy I didn't know I need! :p
Just a reminder that the cigarette plug, or whatever they call it now, like everything else in the car, shuts down several minutes after you turn the car off. That includes the OBDII adapter, USB ports, dash, and interior lights, etc.
 

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Anyone do a test to see what it reads? Typical car battery are around 12.5 when car is off and 14.0 when car is running.
Yes. You can see the accessory battery voltage using Torque Pro. When the car is on, it is often 14.7 volts.
 

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DROK also sells a nifty USB meter. It tells you what the voltage and current (among several other things) are. Handy, if you want to know which of your USB cables should simply be recycled. I put a 2.4A-capable source on one end, and a 2.4A load on the other. If the meter reads significantly less than 2.4A, the USB cable conductors are too small, and the cable should be recycled. I found that over half of the USB cables I've got are garbage. I also marked all of my cables with a little lightning bolt if they're "charge-only" cables, i.e. don't pass data.

 

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Yeah, I bought one of those USB meters. Very handy. Can also be used to determine power draw of various devices under differing types of usage.

Regarding the cigarette adapter VOM, you could also get a $6 ELM327 bluetooth device and pair it with Torque to get voltage, among many other vehicle parameters. More savvy required though (and an Android device).
 

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I constantly monitor the 12V system with my little plug-in for the acc. outlet. On the road it reads 12.6. After start up, it goes to 14.1, then tapers to 12.6. If it drops below 12.6, the Bolts computer starts charging it briefly. Any deviation from the above flags a problem with the battery getting old, and will be time to replace it. I think this will help to avoid problems with a dying battery, which screws up the computers, which then starts throwing various error codes.
 

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I prefer this one:


12V rail voltage, and, if something is plugged it, it then cycles info about its draw.

Plus two 2.4A usb ports. What's not to like? (... The LED are bright blue, which is what I don't like, but nothing is perfect.)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I constantly monitor the 12V system with my little plug-in for the acc. outlet. On the road it reads 12.6. After start up, it goes to 14.1, then tapers to 12.6. If it drops below 12.6, the Bolts computer starts charging it briefly. Any deviation from the above flags a problem with the battery getting old, and will be time to replace it. I think this will help to avoid problems with a dying battery, which screws up the computers, which then starts throwing various error codes.
Same with humans, blood sugar too low and I start throwing various error codes too. ;)
 

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Yes. You can see the accessory battery voltage using Torque Pro. When the car is on, it is often 14.7 volts.
Could you please tell me where the acc. battery voltage is in the PID list? I didn't see it on first and second glance.

I would rather go this route and get some other nice data than buying something to plug into the cigarette lighter and only get the approx. voltage.
 

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There are two PIDs referred to as Control Module Voltage, and an OBDII voltage. The easiest way to find them is to turn on the car, and turn on Torque Pro. Go into settings to set up a display, and you get to the entire list of PIDs. With the car running, each PID shows what is currently being sent from the car. Look for the ones showing 12-15 volts.
 

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The OBDII PID works with the car turned off. I assume that is the actual battery voltage. One of the other PIDs shows zero with the car turned off. The one time the car sat for two weeks without being plugged in, when I turned it on, that PID immediately showed 14.7 volts, while the other two PIDs took a minute to reach that voltage. I assume that is the DC-DC converter. In day to day use, they all show the same voltage pretty much immediately, with the car turned on.
 
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