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Has anyone added dedicated 12V power leads for an amateur band transceiver? I would be curious as to what route was chosen to get the line into the cabin.
 

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there's a fusebox to the left of the steering wheel, maybe you could find an unused fuse position there. or just tap off an existing fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
there's a fusebox to the left of the steering wheel, maybe you could find an unused fuse position there. or just tap off an existing fuse.
Isn't the cigarette lighter hole, below the center screen, 12 volts? You could just plug in there.
Sorry folks. I should have been clearer. For various reasons one does not power such a transceiver from a fuse block like one might do for an ICE system. A good quality >25W amateur band transceiver, whether HF or VHF/UHF, requires extremely-low-impedance positive and negative wires connected directly to the battery, inline fuses, and--if power is to be controlled from the ignition--its own relay. Also, there is the possibility of having to add a RFI filter choke on the power leg and _maybe_ a 80-100,000 μF electrolytic cap close to the transceiver, but such filtering is hotly debated among amateur radio operators. My focus would be on keeping the voltage drop on the wire to less than .5.

Anyway, the matter at hand is getting a 12-14G pair wrapped in, say, 3/8" cable management from the 12V battery to the cabin.
 

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I would try a fuse tap or even the 12v cig adapter, you may be right and you may pick up some noise, but I ran several radios in my Spark EV, including my FT-7900 and my Icom ID-880d with no issues. I plan to try the same in the Bolt soon.

In other owned (not leased) cars, I've gone to a good stereo install shop and had them run me 2 12 gauge wires through the firewall and terminated them into Anderson PowerPole connectors under the seat. It cost about $100 including wire and an in-line fuse at the battery.

73
K6ZRA
 

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Sorry folks. I should have been clearer. For various reasons one does not power such a transceiver from a fuse block like one might do for an ICE system. A good quality >25W amateur band transceiver, whether HF or VHF/UHF, requires extremely-low-impedance positive and negative wires connected directly to the battery, inline fuses, and--if power is to be controlled from the ignition--its own relay. Also, there is the possibility of having to add a RFI filter choke on the power leg and _maybe_ a 80-100,000 μF electrolytic cap close to the transceiver, but such filtering is hotly debated among amateur radio operators. My focus would be on keeping the voltage drop on the wire to less than .5.

Anyway, the matter at hand is getting a 12-14G pair wrapped in, say, 3/8" cable management from the 12V battery to the cabin.
I installed a fuse(80 amp) and amplifer/subwoofer in my bolt, to get 12v+ into the cabin i made a hole in the fire wall next to where all the wires go through. The material is rubber? and a small hole can easily be made, i used a round file to make the hole and im running a 8 guage wire from the 12V+ into the cabin. For 12- i used the screw hole where the spare tire foam filler attaches to the chassis, scrapped the paint off and installed a nut and bolt with ring terminal holding the wire in place. Good for 750 watts!

Since you are probably putting your radio in the front, you could probably run both the + and - wires through the firewall. But anywhere on the chassis is -? so only need to run + wire through firewall?
 

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Nice tip about adding a small hole in the rubber grommet (??) where the other wires pass through. Thank you for the pics!
 
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Nice tip about adding a small hole in the rubber grommet (??) where the other wires pass through. Thank you for the pics!
I would recommend putting the wire in some kind of protective sleeve or loom, at least through the engine compartment, I forgot to do this, but will probably add some soon...Electrical common sense!

-LaBrother
 

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I would recommend putting the wire in some kind of protective sleeve or loom, at least through the engine compartment, I forgot to do this, but will probably add some soon...Electrical common sense!

-LaBrother
Yeah, I figure that's a given for anyone doing the electrical work themselves. I had assumed you were still just prototyping and the pics were not of a finished product. Pie in the sky, I was thinking that's a great place to snake some flex conduit like the following:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-86664-Black-Flexible-Conduit/dp/B003P9OZ86[/ame]

It's overkill since the engine bay of the Bolt probably won't get as much heat as an ICE. My thinking was you can pull DC power through for your transceiver as well as other purposes. Mine was installing a lit emblem like on some Chevy trucks. This way, the emblem would come on when the auto lights were on (assuming there's a fuse that you can tap off of for auto-switching).
 
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