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So, I leased this car literally two days ago. I drove it home from dealer (30 miles) and round trip to work (60 miles).
Put it on the charger the first night with no problems. Slow, but no issues. Last night it charged all night without any issues, but when I took it off charge and started it up - it was showing me a warning that said "UNABLE TO CHARGE" and "charging disabled due to risk of damaging the battery. "

Car asked me to turn it off and back on to reset. I did this and charging was still disabled with a note to take it to the dealer. It also did something strange that it did not do day 1 - it showed 140 miles range when I turned it over (where I left it the night before) and then slowly started to roll up to the 185 the app showed me.

I scanned over posts here and did a google search and did not see any other issues quite like this one. Anyone had this issue or know what it is about?

Using the factory charger on my garage 120v plug. Like I said, watched it first day and night on the plug and all was good. Nothing else running on the breaker at 20A. I did have the charger set at the higher 12A setting, but this is still well below the

Dropped it off at the dealer after taking my wife to work. They only have 1 guy who can work on them and he is also a Volt tech. They said they will look at it mid-day.

Real bummer!
 

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If the dealer doesn't find anything wrong with the car or factory supplied 120v EVSE try charging at the 8amp rate.
Maybe the voltage dropped too low at 12amps?
You could confirm with a voltmeter on the circuit when charging at 12amps vs. 8amps.
 

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I had a similar issue.

Mine is 1-day old. Also, would not allow me to place into reverse. Stated something about requirements not met. Later, my range immediately went from 180 miles to 11 miles!

I turned off the car, stepped away for a bit, came back and was able to start the car with range back to 180. All the while the icon on the lower right of the dashboard (car with exclamation mark) was on. Onstar rep told me remote diagnostics came back with a battery and battery management issue...

At dealer now. Like you, only one guy can work on it...
 

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Every function on the EV depends on the 12 volt battery to initiate it. This includes charging as well as starting the EV. These sit in the car from manufacture to delivery. They are supposed to be fully charged when shipped, but one may have slipped through the crack or was a defective battery. The dealer had no reason to check or charge. I read about the 12v here on the Forum and that while ICE vehicle startup “jolts” the crud off the battery plates, the EV does not. I decided to buy the “trickle charger” and use it monthly (attach overnight just once - when I am not charging the mains) to rejuvenate the 12v. Every month it starts off “blinking” at hookup and is “solid” in the am. It cost < $20. It won’t make the 12v last forever, but should get a full 5-6 years. Make sure your dealer charges up the 12v, then see if it lasts. It may be as simple a fix as drdiesel1 suggests.
 

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Every function on the EV depends on the 12 volt battery to initiate it. This includes charging as well as starting the EV. These sit in the car from manufacture to delivery. They are supposed to be fully charged when shipped, but one may have slipped through the crack or was a defective battery.
Or between manufacturing, quality control, shipping and sitting around on a lot for several months the battery may have simply run down. Checking the build date on the driver's door pillar might shed some light on whether that's a possibility or not.
 

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So, I leased this car literally two days ago. I drove it home from dealer (30 miles) and round trip to work (60 miles).
Put it on the charger the first night with no problems. Slow, but no issues. Last night it charged all night without any issues, but when I took it off charge and started it up - it was showing me a warning that said "UNABLE TO CHARGE" and "charging disabled due to risk of damaging the battery. "
I've seen this happen with messed up EVSEs. The car can detect that there is something plugged into it, but for whatever reason, it can't actually charge. Not saying that it's your issue, but it's worth considering.
 

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Sounds an awful lot like the nightmare I just went through driving from Phoenix, AZ and currently still 22 hours away from arriving home in Michigan. I'll post my acquisition story of my new used 2017 Bolt on the main page soon, but bottom line is exactly what SurgeonFWW said above: that 12 volt battery controls a massive amount of tech. If it's underperforming, then errors and malfunctions with numerous things can go awry and not work like they're supposed to.
After 3 successful fast charges up to appx 82% and almostmaking it 490 from PhoenixAZ to Albuquerque, NM... around 530am on Labor Day morning the DCFC station said Unable to charge, please remove, etc... So I tried other charging stations in the same parking lot, tried a level 2, tried my level 1 portable charger on a regular socket, and nothing. 15 minutes before getting to this 4th charging stop I noticed the service Car light turn on while driving , then my cruise control no longer worked, could not use L mode, all regenerative braking was lost, the rear view camera would not turn on when going in reverse, and the back hatch would not open. Not to mention that the car began to feel like a manual trans/stick shift because if on a slight incline and you took your foot off the brake it would start to roll backward.

At this point I'm freaking out because I'm wondering if I bought a lemon, but ultimately after waiting til the day after LVor Day for service dept to open, then waiting 1.5 days for that 12v battery to ship in (from all places back from Phoenix) then they did a ton of computer and electronic resets and it is back to normal now. Giant fiasco and the selling dealership is reimbursing for a lot of it, but I dont think my entire unnecessary hotel stays and food and rental car will be covered, but close to it. We'll see if they do anything about this turning from a 3 day trip now into an 8 day trip with lost wages. Not holding my breath though.:mad::confused:🤬
 

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After 3 successful fast charges up to appx 82% and almostmaking it 490 from PhoenixAZ to Albuquerque, NM... around 530am on Labor Day morning the DCFC station said Unable to charge, please remove, etc... So I tried other charging stations in the same parking lot, tried a level 2, tried my level 1 portable charger on a regular socket, and nothing. 15 minutes before getting to this 4th charging stop I noticed the service Car light turn on while driving , then my cruise control no longer worked, could not use L mode, all regenerative braking was lost, the rear view camera would not turn on when going in reverse, and the back hatch would not open. Not to mention that the car began to feel like a manual trans/stick shift because if on a slight incline and you took your foot off the brake it would start to roll backward.
Thanks for posting this, it answered a question I had about the 12V battery.

I keep a Li-Ion battery pack in the car so I can get it started if the 12V battery dies. I've always kind of assumed that once you got the car turned on you didn't need to worry too much about the 12V battery because 12V power comes from the DC/DC converter that takes power from the high voltage battery to run the car's low voltage systems and to charge the 12V battery. But it sounds like in your case the bad 12V battery interfered with the low voltage system enough to screw things up. So that means you really need to replace a marginal 12V battery ASAP.
 

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Yep, at a Chevy dealership in the desert, got me for $420 with parts, labor, diagnostics, etc. The selling dealership is reimbursing for that though, thankfully. I would've found a cheaper solution than the OEM 12v battery if they weren't going to.
 

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Yep, at a Chevy dealership in the desert, got me for $420 with parts, labor, diagnostics, etc. The selling dealership is reimbursing for that though, thankfully. I would've found a cheaper solution than the OEM 12v battery if they weren't going to.
They use this battery in the Bolt, Spark, and several Cadillacs.

 

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I've always kind of assumed that once you got the car turned on you didn't need to worry too much about the 12V battery because 12V power comes from the DC/DC converter that takes power from the high voltage battery to run the car's low voltage systems and to charge the 12V battery. But it sounds like in your case the bad 12V battery interfered with the low voltage system enough to screw things up. So that means you really need to replace a marginal 12V battery ASAP.
I've had on two occasions where the 12V battery failed by shorting to ground. Couldn't even jump the car because the battery was shorting to ground and the jumper cables got extremely hot and started melting the insulation. In these rare failures, nothing will keep up. I live off a dirt road, so I think I've seen this happen more than most from the internal plates of the battery breaking loose.
 

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I've had on two occasions where the 12V battery failed by shorting to ground.
That wasn't in the Bolt, was it? I thought that AGM batteries were pretty much immune to damage from vibration because of the way they're constructed.
 

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That wasn't in the Bolt, was it? I thought that AGM batteries were pretty much immune to damage from vibration because of the way they're constructed.
Not the Bolt. One happened on my 1987 Fiero and the other on an old 1978 Ford F-150 that I once had. I drive really slow on the dirt road with the Bolt. I've been paranoid with ruining the high voltage traction battery. Was a little dismayed with how stiff the suspension is in the Bolt for this reason. GM not worried about this happening? Guess not. But I am. Would love to see what vibration testing they did.
 

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I've been paranoid with ruining the high voltage traction battery. Was a little dismayed with how stiff the suspension is in the Bolt for this reason. GM not worried about this happening? Guess not. But I am. Would love to see what vibration testing they did.
Since the cells are in flexible plastic pouches separated by metal cooling/heating plates I'd expect the assembly to be pretty robust. I can imagine there being problems if you dropped the car on its side, but in normal driving most vibration would be vertical which the battery structure should stand up to pretty well.
 

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I'd expect the assembly to be pretty robust.
Maybe I'll wait to after year seven of ownership before I race down the dirt road. That old F-150 on the dirt road was fun with 400 cubic inches of displacement and glasspacks on the exhaust.
 
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