Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. Not that long after I got the car., I noticed like a rust ring around the front disks. When took it in they said.. "oh they are like that"
About 8 mo ago.. I thought I heard an occasional scraping.. they looked as said, its fine.. its just rust.

Today .as my car sounds like a can opener driving by with 29k miles , and I almost never use the brake.. they said
"The brakes have almost all the meat in them but there are rust grooves. The brakes are working fine, you can leave it like that and turn it in , in a few months if you want"

The issue is that I sound like a can opener driving by and everyone looks at me.
Am I stuck? My lease expires in a few month. The dealer quoted 485 to replace front disks/pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
If it's just rust on the rotors.. you can pull each wheel and sand down the rotors without removing them.
We do that on boat trailer brakes all the time because they sit over the winter and rust up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
If it's just rust on the rotors.. you can pull each wheel and sand down the rotors without removing them.
We do that on boat trailer brakes all the time because they sit over the winter and rust up.
I feel like there are actually grooves there that I can feel with my finger and sometimes even after driving all day the noise is there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
The rotors are coated with an ant-rust coating. Mine look as new as the day I brought the car home. To have grooves you can feel as mentioned means something is getting stuck or perhaps the rotors were not heat treated correctly (unlikely). Any shop can pull the wheels and turn down the rotors if allowed and slip in some new pads or at least give you advice. There was also a service bulletin early on about nitrogen or some other gas In the brake lines that need to be removed. Did your car get this completed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,323 Posts
Something is not right down there. We're in the frozen ass-end of nowhere with magnesium chloride solution sprayed on our roads in winter, always drive our 2017 in L and seldom use the brakes. They're as clean, shiny and noise-free as new.

jack vines
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
You said you almost never use the brakes. Do you only hear the sound when using the brakes or all the time? Are the grooves in both front rotors or only side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
"It's difficult for a man to know something when his salary depends on his not knowing it." Upton Sinclair

A little dirt on noisy brakes? No problem. Replace them! That'll be $485 please.

Rich
The dealer said that because I didnt use my brakes much (maybe few times a month) and the car sitting too much that I didnt clean off the oxidation which lead to my problem. I"m on my way to pick it up, which I had changed my mind earlier.. I'm out almost 500 and turning my car in a few months. I just couldn't take the embarrassing can opener sound anymore. Since there is nothing good available in USA right now (E-Soul/Kona) that you can get ill have to go back to gasahol for a while ... sigh..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
928 Posts
If you did use the brakes "a few times a month" this doesn't make sense.

And even if you didn't use them much, given what the others here have said, it still doesn't seem likely what they told you is correct.

Also gotta add, nothing wrong with a good efficient gas car for daily drives. Just don't commute alone 100 miles a day in a Hummer H2... like some do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Just heard from a colleague who had to replace the brakes on his Renault Zoe for what the dealer said was the same reason. My response was the same as on here, "What the?" I live in California. He lives in England. Still, he lives in a hilly area and he uses his brakes as much as I do driving in "L".

Could this be how dealers plan to make money on EVs?

Just doesn't sound right or make a lot of sense to me.

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
heard it all the time, and the grooves are on both sides but more so on the drivers.
You said you almost never use the brakes. Do you only hear the sound when using the brakes or all the time? Are the grooves in both front rotors or only side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
Maybe make a few speed runs in D and romp on the brakes hard. See if that cleans them up.
This is the best answer. It’s called burnishing (apparently).
Brakes need to be used to stay working and in optimum condition. Use them!

they also don’t need to be perfect to stop the car. Grooves make noise maybe. So what? If there’s meat on the rotor and pad on the... pads, then you will stop fine when you need to.

Do 10-20 hard stops from 30-40 mph once in a while To clean the brakes and keep things moving down there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
I even go a step farther and put the car in N as approaching a stop sign at ~30MPH, and brake hard and fully with only the pads. Do that once a week or anything the car has sat a few days and it has made a world of difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
This is the best answer. It’s called burnishing (apparently).
Brakes need to be used to stay working and in optimum condition. Use them!

they also don’t need to be perfect to stop the car. Grooves make noise maybe. So what? If there’s meat on the rotor and pad on the... pads, then you will stop fine when you need to.

Do 10-20 hard stops from 30-40 mph once in a while To clean the brakes and keep things moving down there.
This is pretty silly. Did you not get the memo that the Bolt's rotors are coated with an ant-rust surface treatment? The OP had premature grooves in his brake rotors and no amount of heavy braking is going to fix that. I have a Fiat 500 that gets surface rust because I do not drive it much anymore but when I do I hear a mild noise the first couple of times I break and then it is gone. Do you have any idea of the amount of hydraulic force applied by the brake pads?
This burnishing is another car myth that needs to go away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Burnishing only needs to be done on new pads to wear/burn off the resin by doing a few hard almost stops, then continue driving until the pads and rotors cool off so that any melted resin doesn't stick to the rotors, where it can grab or cause noise. I had put new ceramic pads/rotors/calipers on my Mustang a couple of months ago and the manufacturer went into great detail about the burnishing process, and how important it was to do it properly and not to come to a complete stop at any point during the process. A complete stop could only be made after allowing the brakes to cool by driving at moderate speed and only gentle braking for at least 5 miles. I followed the instructions, the pads smoked and smelled awful, but after 15 minutes of hard braking then moderate braking, then cool down driving, all was well and they stopped great and are quiet.

In don't believe burnishing needs to be done after that, even if the rotors are turned, because the purpose is to break in the new pads. I remember my Dad doing the same thing with new shoes on his drum brakes!

I know my Bolt's rotors look new, and hope they stay that way for as long as I can tolerate the seats. Just got some different foam, so going to try to make them comfortable. Second attempt at the bottom cushion. Then, it will be too add some lumbar support.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
I know my Bolt's rotors look new, and hope they stay that way for as long as I can tolerate the seats. Just got some different foam, so going to try to make them comfortable. Second attempt at the bottom cushion. Then, it will be too add some lumbar support.
Let us know how it turns out (the seat mod).
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top