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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased my 2019 Bolt brand new in Sept. of last year with about 38 miles on the odometer.

Yesterday, while driving in the FastTrak, without warning the car jolted pretty hard and i look down on the dash to see propulsion system was lost and the would no longer accelerate. Afterwards pulling over, I kept getting an error conditions not ready to shift, the little globe looking display with "initializing shift" or something along those lines, and the car range dropped from 138mi to 0.

Luckily there was a place for me to pull over (there are many parts of the FasTrak that does not have a shoulder) and was able to get the car towed to the dealer right before they closed. When the car arrived at the dealer, mileage went back to 138 but the color of the range indicators were still "orange" not green, and the car still was unable to shift into drive. Car did get into Neutral okay.

Sadly they had NO loaner cars available which puts me out of work as I have no other transportation.

The car just over 12k miles and I have had no other major issues with the car.

This has left me with a really bad taste with the car, as the way the car dies without ANY WARNINGS what-so-ever and put me in a very dangerous situation.

Below is a list of codes pulled from the onstar service diagnostic. The first the rep said when they pulled the codes was "WOW! Your car has a ton of error codes."

ModuleDiagnostic CodeDiagnostic InformationRecommended Action
SDM - Airbag SystemNoneNo Error Code FoundNone
VIU - OnStar SystemNoneNo Error Code FoundNone
HCP - Hybrid Control ProcessorP1AEEThe electric propulsion system is not performing as expected. Please service immediatelyService right away
BOI - Bulb Outage IndicatorsNoneNo Error Code FoundNone
ABS - Braking and Stability SystemNoneNo Error Code FoundNone
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP0D09The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Hybrid Battery System which is a high voltage battery used to propel your vehicle.Service within 1 day
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP0D26The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Hybrid Battery System which is a high voltage battery used to propel your vehicle.Service within 7 days
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP1AE6The Engine and Transmission System is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Hybrid Powertrain System that monitors and controls the use of power between the combustion engine and the electric drive system.Service within 7 days
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP1EC0IGNORE UNKNOWN DTCNo action needed
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP0C78IGNORE UNKNOWN DTCNo action needed
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP0ABCThe Engine and Transmission System is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Hybrid Powertrain System that monitors and controls the use of power between the combustion engine and the electric drive system.Service within 7 days
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP0ABB
VIC - VEHICLE INTEGRATION CONTROLP1FFFThe Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Onboard Charging System which manages your vehicles battery pack charge level.Service at your convenience


Any insight on some of these codes?

I got an update yesterday from the dealer who said it was the high voltage battery that failed. I suppose they are still having battery issues with the 2019 models. I do feel that is a lot of codes for just the battery though.
 

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It sucks when these types of breakdowns occur, no doubt, but not being forewarned shouldn't color your opinion too negatively. That's not really unusual but fairly typical. The bigger takeaway is that the Bolt has performed flawlessly for 12k miles and the problem you describe is not systemic to the entire fleet.
GM has been very responsive and attentive to these rare situations and yours should be no different other than the lack of a loaner. Maybe your insurance can pick up the tab outside of the dealership and hope for reimbursal.
Again, if the car has been a good fit and otherwise trouble free, don't let this one anomaly cloud your opinion.
Best of luck in a speedy repair.
 

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It must have been a catastrophic failure of the battery. Makes me wonder if there was a short circuit or something and the car shut down to avoid a potential fire. There are certainty enough error codes indicating a battery problem. The only bright spot here is that you should get a brand new zero mile battery from the whole experience, but that may be small recompense on a battery with only 20kMi. on it..

Let us know how it goes.
 

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Based on what I've read on this forum, first thing I would do - which is fairly easy - is check the 12V accessory battery voltage. Could be that you lost a cell in your accessory battery, and it's causing the ECU to go wonky.
 

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I am going to guess it is the MSD.

 

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Sounds like you blew the fuse in the Manual Service Disconnect. Your codes match what @Pike Bishop saw.
  • P0D26 -- Battery Charger System Precharge Time Too Long (indicates poor connection)
  • P1AE6 -- Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage Isolation Sensor Circuit
  • P1EC0 -- Battery contactors potentially stuck open
  • P0ABC -- Main Battery Voltage sensing low
The dealer tech did not share the TSB #18-NA-225 noted by wonderbolt. He did say that it was not related to the Bolt EV, but more for Chevrolet hybrid drive trains. Trying to solve the MIL light issue, the technician cross-referenced the DTCs and did some homework on his own to look at the Manual Service Disconnect. Good call!
 

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Based on what I've read on this forum, first thing I would do - which is fairly easy - is check the 12V accessory battery voltage. Could be that you lost a cell in your accessory battery, and it's causing the ECU to go wonky.
While I'm a big advocate of checking the 12V battery when weird problems occur, the fact that his failure occurred while the car had already been turned on and been driving makes me doubt that this would be the problem. Under those conditions 12V power would be coming from the high voltage battery via the power inverter, so I'd expect that the 12V battery would be pretty much irrelevant at that point.
 

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Sounds like the MSD issue - agree the experience is a scary one but if your ICE vehicle died while driving, it would be the same experience. The good things others have called out is the vehicle shut down for your safety - glad you were able to pull off the FastTrak.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The one error code that stands out which makes me think there is more is the Hybrid Control Processor. I am sure the dealer will figure it all out in the end. It will be kind of nice to get a new battery out of it.

The more I think of it, I do feel that my range decreased quite a bit over the last month or 2. I was choking it up to lighter traffic, thus faster highway speeds for longer periods of time, so i was ranging about 180 to 190 per charge.

I don't think it MSD played a roll in this failure because after the car was towed, I turned it on and it showed the correct remaining range on the GOM however it was orange instead of green and i still could not shift. If the MSD blew, I do not think there is a way the car could get this information.

I did think about the 12v battery as well, especially since I put an aftermarket sound system in the car, but then I thought that being the cause while cruising 70mph down the highway was very unlikely.


I do believe you guys are right when you say I shouldn't let this taint my thoughts about the car as it has been fairly reliable. And as Max said, this same scenario could have happened while driving an ICE car. I think it comes as a big shock as I have not had this type of failure occur on my before in any vehicle. The car being newer technology (electric) and a new car in itself, I think does make it easier to have a colored opinion.

The thing that bothers me the most is the lack of communication from the dealership and their interest in getting me in a rental car. It takes multiple phone calls to even get thorough to the dealer, although they say they are have had issues with their phones since COVID started. I have also left multiple voice mails, and talked to other service advisors multiple times to have my rep call me back, but never get a call.

On top of that I wanted to make sure they update all the modules on the car, including the DC fast charging curve and update the software on the infotainment system to be completed before I pick up the car. I was told they would pass this on to my service advisor, but with the way things have been handled, I am not holding my breath.


On a side note, what would the chances be they throw in the newer battery for the 2020? That would be pretty neat if they obsolete the old one and produce only the new one. You know, to (potentially) save on production costs as well as make the customer happy? Right? Ah, its wishful thinking.
 

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If the MSD blew, I do not think there is a way the car could get this information.
Doesn't have to completely blow in order for it to cause a fault. Per the thread I previously linked:
A failing MSD that introduced an additional ~100 milliohms to the circuit would cause an additional 40 volt drop.

The battery sensors may interpret this additional voltage droop as a battery fault and start the entire alarm chain.
 

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I think it comes as a big shock as I have not had this type of failure occur on my before in any vehicle. The car being newer technology (electric) and a new car in itself, I think does make it easier to have a colored opinion.
It's ironic that my history of owning GM vehicles has provided me with quite a few experiences of complete failure of a vehicle while driving! :D Never while going full speed on a highway, but I've had brakes fail while going 50 on a country road, a transmission fail while going 55 on a country road, a water pump seize and shred the serpentine belt while going 50 on a country road (which lead to no power steering or brakes and overheating), and a car that was prone to just dying whenever I would stop at a red light (having to push it out of the intersection through a sea of angry, honking motorists was always fun).

The thing that bothers me the most is the lack of communication from the dealership and their interest in getting me in a rental car. It takes multiple phone calls to even get thorough to the dealer, although they say they are have had issues with their phones since COVID started. I have also left multiple voice mails, and talked to other service advisors multiple times to have my rep call me back, but never get a call.
For better or worse (probably worse), the dealerships are very separated from the company that makes the vehicles that the dealerships sell. Try to separate the two in your mind. Keep searching and hopefully you can find a good dealership.
 

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It's ironic that my history of owning GM vehicles has provided me with quite a few experiences of complete failure of a vehicle while driving! :D Never while going full speed on a highway, but I've had brakes fail while going 50 on a country road, a transmission fail while going 55 on a country road, a water pump seize and shred the serpentine belt while going 50 on a country road (which lead to no power steering or brakes and overheating), and a car that was prone to just dying whenever I would stop at a red light (having to push it out of the intersection through a sea of angry, honking motorists was always fun).



For better or worse (probably worse), the dealerships are very separated from the company that makes the vehicles that the dealerships sell. Try to separate the two in your mind. Keep searching and hopefully you can find a good dealership.
If I were you, I would avoid country roads. Seems to be a correlation.
 

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Given that I'm seeing more of the MSD problem on 2019's and GM won't do the right thing and issue a recall (like they did in South Korea), I've been contemplating replacing the MSD myself. Total cost would be around $120 after buying some high voltage gloves:


As I understand it, the procedure would be: disconnect 12v battery, pull up rear seat, replace MSD (with gloves on), then reconnect the 12v battery. Seems like a simple thing to give me some peace of mind. Only thing is, I'd have to assume the part you order would be the new/improved part. I had a fleeting thought that I'd just keep the new MSD and gloves in the car so I could replace it on the road if the original went bad... then I realized that once the MSD blows and sets codes, only the dealer can clear the codes before it'll be driveable again so if you wait until it happens, it's too late for a DIY fix.

Mike
 

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I don't think so. According to Weber Auto's video, he said if you do things in the wrong order and get those codes, only the dealer can clear them with their tech tool.

Mike
Starting to wonder about the serviceability of these Electric Vehicles ... once you get outside the warranty period. Sure, you get 100,000 miles of warranty coverage on the battery pack, but that might only be 5-7 years. I like to drive my vehicles 222,222+ miles and service them myself for next to nothing. It sure would be ironic to be finally driving a simplified vehicle needing little to no maintenance, but then every time something did go wrong ... I'd have to take it into the dealer, where I'd get socked with a $500 bill every time!

I'd betcha replacing this little part would end up being a $500 bill at the dealership (outside of warranty).
 

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If I were you, I would avoid country roads. Seems to be a correlation.
Where I grew up, there were only country roads! I became very comfortable going 65 - 70 on these back roads because I knew them so well. Nowadays, I'm a little more responsible but I also live in the most densely-populated state which means other cars on the road everywhere all the time.
 

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I don't think so. According to Weber Auto's video, he said if you do things in the wrong order and get those codes, only the dealer can clear them with their tech tool.

Mike
would think I can buy a scanner that would do it also. Right to repair and all.
 

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Starting to wonder about the serviceability of these Electric Vehicles ... once you get outside the warranty period. ... I'd betcha replacing this little part would end up being a $500 bill at the dealership (outside of warranty).
Well stay away from a used BMW then... $5k for a replacement headlamp assembly:
 

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Agrees with this. I had a Lexus for a while. Not in the same idiotic parts league as the BMW, but still twice what a similar Toyota part would cost. I'm done with luxury car brands. Well, I might do a Tesla, if that counts, but I've been happily "down market" for some time now.
 
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