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would think I can buy a scanner that would do it also. Right to repair and all.
I have a tool (DashHawk) that can clear the codes. I think places like AutoZone can do that too. It is my understanding that these codes can't be reset by a simple tool and it requires one of the GM tech tools. The reason being: apparently if you pull that MSD with the 12v computer still "alive", it thinks the car has been in an accident.

Mike
 

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It's ironic that my history of owning GM vehicles has provided me with quite a few experiences of complete failure of a vehicle while driving! :D Never while going full speed on a highway, but I've had brakes fail while going 50 on a country road, a transmission fail while going 55 on a country road, a water pump seize and shred the serpentine belt while going 50 on a country road (which lead to no power steering or brakes and overheating), and a car that was prone to just dying whenever I would stop at a red light (having to push it out of the intersection through a sea of angry, honking motorists was always fun).



For better or worse (probably worse), the dealerships are very separated from the company that makes the vehicles that the dealerships sell. Try to separate the two in your mind. Keep searching and hopefully you can find a good dealership.
Solution...stop driving on country roads! ;-)
 

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Well stay away from a used BMW then... $5k for a replacement headlamp assembly:
Yeah - a co-worker from Greece has two BMW’s that he bought brand new and collectively cost him over $100k! On the older, hot red, model I remember he had to replace a very minor part in the engine compartment. The dealer wanted something like $800 to replace it, so he bought the part and replaced it himself ... but it still cost him over $300. I can’t remember what it was, but I remember thinking “if that was on my Chevy it would be a $50-$75 part at a parts store”.

Sister-in-law had a Mercedes convertible (2-seater with the hard-top you had the painstakingly and constantly remove and reinstall). First “tune-up” (1992 timeframe) was $800! I don’t think she saw it coming, but these German car dealerships certainly see these owners coming! Prices are just outrageous!
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I got the car back today and it was indeed the Manual Disconnect Lever. Part number 24294004 was replaced. The new part number installed seems to be different that the one replaced when @Pike Bishop when he had his replaced.

Doing a quick search it looks like part number 24291219 has been discontinued and replaced with 24294004. There is really no mention of this part on the board except from @XJ12 on the following discussion here in March of 2019.

This makes me wonder when the part was updated and if it does indeed fix the issue permanently. Knowing that it has been revised does add some confidence that GM was aware of this issue and they took action to get it resolved.

I am however really curious to know when they started installing the new part number into the car from the factory. I suppose there is no real way to tell what part number was originally installed on the car is there?

Manufacturing date for my car was Dec. 2018.

It would be a real bummer to find out someone with the new part has experience the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Not sure why, but my posts are getting flagged for approval by a moderator whenever i make an edit. Below is the new post:

I got the car back today and it was indeed the Manual Disconnect Lever. Part number 24294004 was replaced. The new part number installed seems to be different that the one replaced when @Pike Bishop when he had his replaced.

Doing a quick search it looks like part number 24291219 has been discontinued and replaced with 24294004. There is really no mention of this part on the board except from @XJ12 on the following discussion here in March of 2019.

This makes me wonder when the part was updated and if it does indeed fix the issue permanently. Knowing that it has been revised does add some confidence that GM was aware of this issue and they took action to get it resolved.

I am however really curious to know when they started installing the new part number into the car from the factory. I suppose there is no real way to tell what part number was originally installed on the car is there?

Manufacturing date for my car was Dec. 2018.

It would be a real bummer to find out someone with the new part has experience the same issue.
 

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Just looked, my car was built 6/2019 and has part 24294004. I'm not really sure from Cstrife2's post, but this is the current part that replaced the MSDs that have had issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Just looked, my car was built 6/2019 and has part 24294004. I'm not really sure from Cstrife2's post, but this is the current part that replaced the MSDs that have had issues?
Yes, 24294004 is the current part they installed for the MSD issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thanks! Can you please file a safety complaint with NHTSA at Home | Safercar -- National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) indicating what they did to correct it?

I also have a '19 Bolt that I bought at the end of Jan 2019. I don't recall my build month. Will have to check. But, failures like this are concerning as loss of propulsion while in motion is dangerous.
I already reported the incident to NHTSA after the issue happened. In hindsight, I probably should have waited until I got the paper work so I could include the part that failed into the report.

I wonder if there is any way to go back and add that information. I will look later today to see if I can do that.
 

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Just looked, my car was built 6/2019 and has part 24294004. I'm not really sure from Cstrife2's post, but this is the current part that replaced the MSDs that have had issues?
Sorry if I missed it. Is there an easy way to verify which part is installed?
 

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My Bolt was built in September 2018 and has part 24291219. Bummer.
Our Bolt was built in December of 2016, and the fuse in our MSD is holding up just fine. Any run of fuses could have some bad ones. I would put no faith in the part number meaning anything. It could mean it came from a different supplier, or it could mean a QC change, or any number of things.
 

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I remember seeing the date range of the "bad" ones: it was part of 2018 and 2019 I think. 2016 wouldn't have been affected. I ordered one and got this via email:

"Hello and thank you for your order.

Unfortunately the parts are on national back order and has been cancelled by GM. At this time there is no ETA as to when it will be available again.

We are sorry for the inconvenience."

Maybe I'll try another place.

Mike
 

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Yesterday, while driving in the FastTrak, without warning the car jolted pretty hard and i look down on the dash to see propulsion system was lost and the would no longer accelerate. Afterwards pulling over, I kept getting an error conditions not ready to shift, the little globe looking display with "initializing shift" or something along those lines, and the car range dropped from 138mi to 0.
The same exact thing happened to me yesterday on my way back from Dairy Queen with an ice cream cake on the passenger seat floor on an 85 degree day, except my range went from 173 to 0.

I had the AC on full blast (for the cake) and my phone was connected via USB for CarPlay. When it happened, I did two things that immediately preceded the malfunction: I put my phone in a wireless charging cradle connected to the 12v outlet (I normally use Bluetooth and I like to see my screen so I don’t use the built-in wireless charger), and then moved my keys which had partially fallen into the built-in wireless charger. It was almost as if the malfunction occurred just after I moved my keys.

I have previously received messages about removing an item from the built-in charger, so my suspicion is it somehow caused a short. If the MSD fuse is blown, then I think it’s a reasonable suspicion.

I was able to deadstick it into a restaurant parking lot and left it there overnight until I could call Chevy roadside assistance to tow me to the dealer less than two miles away. Fortunately I was close to home so my wife came and rescued me and the cake.

BTW, I called at around 9 this morning; it took 30 minutes for them to call me back to tell me they found a provider but they wouldn’t be able to get there until 3:30. Again, this was at 9 this morning. I know it’s Fathers Day, but this is ridiculous!
 

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Almost forgot, I almost always drive in regen mode (“L”) and I was in the process of approaching a red light, so regen was engaged and I did see an error message that mentioned regen braking.
 

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I have previously received messages about removing an item from the built-in charger, so my suspicion is it somehow caused a short. If the MSD fuse is blown, then I think it’s a reasonable suspicion.
Your phone charger, and every other infotainment/accessory function in the Bolt runs off the 12 volt AGM battery. Each of these things has a tiny blade fuse. The one for your phone charger is in the instrument panel fuse box, by your left knee. It is fuse F24 Wireless charging module. A dead short across this circuit would be pretty much a non-event. It would have no effect whatsoever on the traction pack.

Heavy regen may well have been the final shock that finally blew the failing sausage sized MSD fuse.
 

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My car was also built Dec 2018. I do wonder what % of these have a bad part. I'm not talking part numbers but I'm talking about the original part that failed like the OP's and what % of those will fail.
 
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