[ronr9286t]

Came out to the garage to run errands in the Bolt. Had about 150 miles estimated on the GOM when I pulled into the garage yesterday.. Completely dead today (no lights - nothing). Dealer was completely unhelpful about any relay or breaker to reset. The only thing I could find was the disconnect relay under the rear seat. I pulled that out and put it back it to no effect.

Getting it towed to the dealer, and so far I could not find out how to get it out of park so it can be pulled out of the garage. Any suggestions on either a way to bring it to life (no reaction when I plug in the charger) or to get it out of park?

 

[krkobel]

check the 12v battery. If it’s dead, so is the entire car

 

[just frank]

Pulling the disconnect under the seat is for emergency (and service) safing of the traction battery, it kills all high voltage outside the pack. It is not intended for owners to pull. I am not sure if merely 'putting it back' is OK, or if something needs to be reset.

I think its the 12V.

 

[MichBolt]

Agree with @krkobel and @just frank - check the 12V battery before anything else. Unfortunately, pulling the fuse (disconnect under the seat) can generate errors that can only be cleared by the dealer, requiring a tow. Normally, the advice is to disconnect the 12V before pulling that fuse; if you're lucky, the 12V was already dead.

If the 12V is dead, you can jump it with another car or one of those portable battery car starters.

 

[just frank]

I always keep one of those starters (and a 10mm and 13 mm wrench) in the car... I'm afraid the car will come up dead, and I will need that to 'reboot' it.

This has, ofc, never happened.

 

[GJETSON]

The only thing I could find was the disconnect relay under the rear seat.

The MSD (Manual Service Disconnect) is not a relay. It is a BIG fuse. You should disconnect the ground cable from the 12 volt battery before pulling it, to avoid throwing codes. Luckily for you, your 12 volt is almost certainly dead, so no worry there. Do you own a VOM (volt-ohm meter)?

 

[ronr9286t]

Definitely the 12V. Tow Truck came out and put on a booster. Got it in neutral and the parking brake released so we could push it out of the garage. Put it on the dollies and took to the dealer. Will know more in the next few days.

 

[Bretsuaz]

Definitely the 12V. Tow Truck came out and put on a booster. Got it in neutral and the parking brake released so we could push it out of the garage. Put it on the dollies and took to the dealer. Will know more in the next few days.

not surprising you need a 12v battery after a couple years in az.

 

[ronr9286t]

Funny. New had an issue with our 2017 Bolt Premier.

 

[XJ12]

Funny. New had an issue with our 2017 Bolt Premier.

some 12 volt batteries get abused sitting in a car lot. dealer doesn't always keep them properly maintained.

 

[TheLight75]

I had the same issue with my Kona EV a couple years ago. The 12V battery died so the whole thing refused to work and threw out a big red ugly error on the screen. It took Hyundai 10 days to figure it out. They ended up replacing the 12V battery with an AGM model and all was fine. In the moment, it seems scarier than it really is.

 

[obsoperator]

The question is, why does a machine that monitors hundreds of networked sensors give no advance hint that an old-technology 12v battery is approaching failure? Most thoughtful ICE owners get a hint that they need a new battery, with no sensors other than an idiot-light.

 

[PhilBo]

Please give us an update when you get the car back.

 

[ronr9286t]

Will-do.

 

[redpoint5]

Why does the whole car need to be moved? Just put a new battery in it.

If the whole car needs to move, there's a good chance the 12v can be charged enough to make a trip.

 

[donna b]

The question is, why does a machine that monitors hundreds of networked sensors give no advance hint that an old-technology 12v battery is approaching failure? Most thoughtful ICE owners get a hint that they need a new battery, with no sensors other than an idiot-light.

I agree. 12V warning light to completely dead car in moments.

 

[ronr9286t]

So, the culprit was indeed the 12 volt battery. Replaced under warranty.

To answer some of the questions/suggestions, the tow driver did attempt a jump of the 12 volt battery, but even with the boost cables connected, the dash/center panel would flicker and many trouble lights displayed. Fortunately, we were able to keep it "alive" long enough to get it in neutral and release the parking brake.

 

[Lika]

I always keep one of those starters (and a 10mm and 13 mm wrench) in the car... I'm afraid the car will come up dead, and I will need that to 'reboot' it.

This has, ofc, never happened.

I have to disconnect the negative from the 12v battery to be able to charge the car. Is the only way I find to force the latch to open. But I never find myself whit the car dead or in a no working conditions

 

[Tim]

I always keep one of those starters (and a 10mm and 13 mm wrench) in the car... I'm afraid the car will come up dead, and I will need that to 'reboot' it.

What is the 13mm for?

 

[Lika]

What is the 13mm for?

You can (depends of the car) remove the - from the 12v battery