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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Are you using Telek's PIDs?


I will check this out and try it (assuming it doesn't void warranty).
 

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I am curious how Chevy tries to resolve this specific situation, as I think it may be a barometer for overall strategy (Assuming the dealer is trying to get direction from corporate; I think they would be crazy not to at this point). Whether the dealer offers/prefers:

1. Send you home with a bad cell (seems unlikely)
2. Try to put you in a loaner long-term or
3. replace your existing bad module with current, risky modules (with your permission)

I feel as though any option other than 2 is a bad sign for what they expect owners to put up with as they proceed through the recall. Granted my money is on #2, but I’m trying not to assume anything here.
 

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1. Send you home with a bad cell (seems unlikely)
2. Try to put you in a loaner long-term or
3. replace your existing bad module with current, risky modules (with your permission)
I don't think they can deny option one if you wanted to keep your car.
And I don't think they will do option 3, as they don't have a way of knowing the replacement would be a safe battery.

But, I am not sure they would offer option 2??? Maybe, maybe not... That might depend on loaner availability, which I have heard is problematic...
 

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I don't think they can deny option one if you wanted to keep your car.
And I don't think they will do option 3, as they don't have a way of knowing the replacement would be a safe battery.

But, I am not sure they would offer option 2??? Maybe, maybe not... That might depend on loaner availability, which I have heard is problematic...
Based on many of the comments I’ve read post-recall, I think a decent number of owners would prefer 3 to 1. I’m just genuinely curious here.
 

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I don't think they can deny option one if you wanted to keep your car.
And I don't think they will do option 3, as they don't have a way of knowing the replacement would be a safe battery.

But, I am not sure they would offer option 2??? Maybe, maybe not... That might depend on loaner availability, which I have heard is problematic...
Option 1 stinks. You get to drive a car with 60 miles of usable range from 90% down to 30%, and the chance that it will burn to the ground. Option 3 is not available, as GM has said none of their battery sections are to be trusted at this point in time.

Option 2 is the only option, and it stinks because you are back in one of their world destroying ICE garbage wagons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
So you cell 51 is directly under the driver's side passenger seat. You could flip the two little latches at the front of the rear seat cushion, and lift it up, and put your hand on it, except it is under the steel floor, inside the battery box.

View attachment 37642 View attachment 37643
I can try this. Noticed that says 2017-2019, are we certain of no changes for 2020 model?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I am curious how Chevy tries to resolve this specific situation, as I think it may be a barometer for overall strategy (Assuming the dealer is trying to get direction from corporate; I think they would be crazy not to at this point). Whether the dealer offers/prefers:

1. Send you home with a bad cell (seems unlikely)
2. Try to put you in a loaner long-term or
3. replace your existing bad module with current, risky modules (with your permission)

I feel as though any option other than 2 is a bad sign for what they expect owners to put up with as they proceed through the recall. Granted my money is on #2, but I’m trying not to assume anything here.
I had asked the other day about a loaner and was told that they don't have any due to getting sold.
 

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I can try this. Noticed that says 2017-2019, are we certain of no changes for 2020 model?
If you download the file on the website, it is up to date. Some PIDs are specific to later cars, and are labeled as such in the file. You only need to install gauges for the PIDs you want

Actually, you don't even need to install gauges. You can just scroll; through the entire file from the main Torque Pro screen, by touching the tool gear/button. It will look just like your screen shot, but with over a hundred PIDs. The active ones will appear in green, and you will see the readings.
 

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I had asked the other day about a loaner and was told that they don't have any due to getting sold.
I would politely demand they provide you with a “no cost to you” (don’t care cost to them) vehicle until they can fix the problem. Chevy can’t really be given the option to shrug and say “oh well” here, IMO. Maybe there are other options I’m missing, but the burden shouldn’t be on the owner to find them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
If you download the file on the website, it is up to date. Some PIDs are specific to later cars, and are labeled as such in the file. You only need to install gauges for the PIDs you want

Actually, you don't even need to install gauges. You can just scroll; through the entire file from the main Torque Pro screen, by touching the tool gear/button. It will look just like your screen shot, but with over a hundred PIDs. The active ones will appear in green, and you will see the readings.
I meant for the physical cell location
 

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Will do - all I can think about is how I was torn between Slate Gray Metallic and Oasis Blue. Went with Oasis Blue but loved both colors. It's like I picked the wrong pill in The Matrix.
Terrible to think you might be subjected to 2 module replacements. The first to fix this obvious defect, and again to fix the possible fire defect. Appreciate you reaching out here and keeping us updated.
 

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That was actually the "final remedy" in the first recall - updated software that would trip warnings presumably based on voltage differences. Prior to the recall, the understanding of having a significant voltage difference among cells was just lost capacity and warranty replacement, not an indication of a defect related to a fire risk. To be honest, it's still not clear that a significant voltage difference is an accurate symptom of a fire risk.
The original 2018 recall had fixed this. After I had this recall performed, my 2018 threw an underperforming cell code when a bad cell was ~125 mV below the average at full charge. I don't know if it was bad before the code was thrown, but it took a few weeks for that code to pop up after the recall was performed.

The 2021 recall tightened their limits down. Unless for some reason they didn't put the 2018 recall update into this 2020 model, I have no idea why the underperforming cell code wouldn't be thrown for this person.

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I would recommend pulling the voltages again at a lower SOC after resting (not driving) for an hour or so. Does the voltage differential between cells stay the same or reduce with a lower SOC (maybe 80%)? Is there a chance that this cell was being misread by the OBDII system?

I didn’t think I’d see another Bolt more messed up than my 2021 (see picture below), but you take the cake

Vehicle Font Personal luxury car Display device Electronic device
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Dealer called me back and didn't find anything wrong with the car.

The tech noted the following:
  • Diagnostic - He didn't find any issues reported during diagnostics
  • Availability - I was told I could pick it up or leave it over the weekend, but they'd like to perform additional testing to it on Monday (and call engineering).
  • Charging - He mentioned that he wanted to leave it charging over the weekend (the entire time), citing that the battery is climate controlled while plugged in, but that he did not believe the battery is climate controlled while operating on only battery. Is that accurate?
    • The car should be fully charged within an hour or two because of the limited capacity, so I wasn't understanding why they wanted to charge it for 3 days straight.
    • I mentioned that GM explicitly states to "Park your vehicle outside immediately after charging and do not leave your vehicle charging indoors overnight.", however, the tech only replied that the recall I mentioned is incomplete.
  • Repair - I noted that cell 51 appeared to exceed GMs specifications for battery degradation, and asked how long a battery repair would take. He noted that the repair would only take an afternoon, but part procurement might take longer (estimated a day or two). He also did not have any details regarding the battery replacement with old vs new battery packs.
I'm a little frustrated that they were not able to diagnose the details that my simple OBD2 scanner reported. The tech was essentially suggesting that this could be related to accessory usage or my driving habits. To confirm this, he wants to charge it for basically 3 days (which breaches GMs own guidelines), and he wants to monitor the consumption with his own driving experience on Monday, and follow up with a call to engineering.

My service advisor also mentioned that the normal EV tech is injured, and that he probably won't be returning. So I suspect that I have a technician who has very limited EV experience, because my area does not have a ton of EVs (Harrisburg, PA).

I was polite and respectful to them on the phone, but it sounds like they're just delaying the inevitable here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I would recommend pulling the voltages again at a lower SOC after resting (not driving) for an hour or so. Does the voltage differential between cells stay the same or reduce with a lower SOC (maybe 80%)? Is there a chance that this cell was being misread by the OBDII system?

I didn’t think I’d see another Bolt more messed up than my 2021 (see picture below), but you take the cake

View attachment 37658
I'm not sure if a misread could be occurring. I assume that we'd be seeing misreads on other cells if that were the case, but it is consistently cell 51 in the couple readings I took. The readings were taken during idle/park (both pre and post drive on separate days). I also noted a handful of other cells that would barely dip below 4v mark into the high 3.9v realm. I have screenshots of this data as well.
 
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