[GB74]

ACDelcoTDS Rear Wiper Control Schematic for my 2023 Bolt EUV shows unswitched +12V fed by fuse F41UA, 20A for parking the rear wiper motor at female side of X901, the connector at top left of the liftgate.

I removed the top trim panel and measured +12V on the Gray/Violet (looks White/Violet tracer to me) with the Bolt EUV turned off.

Traced out wiring to see about adding a Skene IQ-275-A down near left hand side or at rear of the Bolt's cargo area. I want to be able to easily remove if the module dies. So I plan to add some automotive connectors inline to the rear marker/running lights wiring.

Edit - Corrected a few typos in the drawing. 22 Awg from OEM splice to Tail Lights and X900, X901 pin #s.

Refs:
23_Bolt_EUV_Body_Builder_SM_en_US_2022AUG29.pdf
ACDelco TDS - www.acdelcotds.com

CHMSL to Rear Marker Lights IQ-275 with Left and Right wiring Installed on rear wall.
The wiring has room behind the plastic panels.

Placed the IQ-275 controller away from top of the liftgate to avoid the higher ambient temperatures. Easy to have 140°F near top of the car's roof.

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Thanks GB74!!!

 

[pretbek]

ACDelcoTDS Rear Wiper Control Schematic for my 2023 Bolt EUV shows unswitched +12V fed by fuse F41UA, 20A for parking the rear wiper motor at female side of X901, the connector at top left of the liftgate.

I removed the top trim panel and measured +12V on the Gray/Violet (looks White/Violet tracer to me) with the Bolt EUV turned off.
View attachment 54316
View attachment 54317
View attachment 54320

Traced out wiring to see about adding a Skene IQ-275-A down near left hand side or at rear of the Bolt's cargo area. I want to be able to easily remove if the module dies. So I plan to add some automotive connectors inline to the rear marker/running lights wiring.
View attachment 54862

I made a mistake. I need a 12V switched source, not a permanent on 12V source.

If I could indulge:
Can you tell me if there is an accessible 12V source that is only on when the car is on?

 

[Cruzincat50]

I made a mistake. I need a 12V switched source, not a permanent on 12V source.

If I could indulge:
Can you tell me if there is an accessible 12V source that is only on when the car is on?

You could also mount a toggle switch under your dash near the fuse box to turn off or on the 12V to the wiper control. Or better yet, mount a relay controlled by another 12 Volts that is switched. You would have to check the rear wiper before turning off the car or just leave it wherever it is when you turn it off. Probably wouldn't be outside its parked position very often.

 

[GB74]

I made a mistake. I need a 12V switched source, not a permanent on 12V source.

If I could indulge:
Can you tell me if there is an accessible 12V source that is only on when the car is on?

For my 23 EUV I don't show switched +12V to the rear.
I don't have Bose or Supercruise in the rear and I don't have any info on that wiring.

 

[BuckyBolt]

Special thanks to Lmattiso for his wiring diagram & help.

Thought I would post up some additional tips for the Oznium driver-

On a 2023, you don't have to remove the one time use pins for the luggage cover or the side pieces. You only need to remove the upper piece of trim. It pops right off.

Here is what is under that upper trim piece and where you will be working-
View attachment 52829

If you pop out the wire loom holder, you can slide it up the harness a couple inches for room to install your splices.
View attachment 52830

If you use a seam ripper, it works perfectly to open the tape on the loom. If you have ever taken a GM-SET or GM-AET class, that is the tool you are told to use for GM wiring harness work.
View attachment 52831

Here is the area you will be working in. Just behind the X901 connector. Use your preferred splicing method. I used GM PN#19300089 & 19168447 wire splice connectors. (Krimp & Seal connectors)

View attachment 52832

Looking to do the same on a 2023 EV. Is this an EV or EUV? Can you confirm if removal of the top trim would be the same for either? Hoping to remove as few panels as possible. Thank you!

 

[LittleBlue2-2]

Looking to do the same on a 2023 EV. Is this an EV or EUV? Can you confirm if removal of the top trim would be the same for either? Hoping to remove as few panels as possible. Thank you!

Mine is an EUV. My guess is the EV is the same.

The only difference between the two is the extra leg room in the back seats. Lift gate should be identical between both models.

 

[Electric Personality]

The discussions on rededit…

 

[Robaroni]

I mod my 2023 Bolt EUV LT tail light (on lift gate only), i follow somebody else post but instead of diodes i use:
" Diode Dynamics" Automotive PWM Dimmer With Bypass, i got from Amazon, its sold by pear and i use each dimmer for left and right tail lite on lift gate.
easy job if you have hands and eyes (not color blind).
You can access the wires by removing top plastic trim on lift gate.
The three wires you need to locate are: (i copy from someone post)

• Instruction and connection for dimmer self explanatory ones you read instruction and see picture:
• The brown/yellow stripe wire powering the 3rd brake light (connect 2 high power red wires)
• The gray/brown stripe, right tail light
• Purple/gray stripe, left tail light (it look to me purple/wight stripe), the are 2 the same color at big connector, choose the one opposite site from gray/brown wire.
• Run small wire to ground nut, 1.5-2 feet.
• Adjust tail light brightness (i dim to max).
• Each tail light draw 350mA so total 750mA

I you you know haw to solder wires its 1-hour job.
I wish i can post more picture, but they allow 10 only.
I am happy with this set up, but you do at yours own risk.
I dont encourage anybody to make changes this is illustration purpose only.
Sorry for not professional post, doing first time.

Thank you for the solution.
I have heard the PWM units don't hold up. I would like to design a better unit (I'm an electronic engineer). What I need is the outputs of the PWM unit. What does it do exactly? I'm thinking the side with the single red is car 12v and the black output is gnd. Is the white output a lower voltage than the red wire on the output? By how much?
Thanks so much for the help, when you give me the right leads and their voltages I can design a very good circuit that will hold up. I'll post it here.
Rob

 

[CharleyTX]

.... when you give me the right leads and their voltages I can design a very good circuit that will hold up. I'll post it here.
Rob

Can you design a plug and play solution to illuminate the middle bank (left and right) light for brake and turn-signal lights?
I would pay good money for it. 💰💰💰💰

 

[Robaroni]

Charley,
The solutions I see all have short comings. The trouble with this solution is that the parking lights are dimmed and that might not meet code, also the PWM dimmer's reliability is questionable. I am working on a solution, we'll see if it works. My criteria is to have all the lights work at their original brightness and as they original did plus have brake lights come on also around or inside the middle parking lights. It has to also be very reliable.

My thinking is that there is a real issue with people not seeing the brakes because their eyes expect the middle lights to get brighter when braking. GM really dropped the ball on this and I'm seeing people rear ended higher than the average percentage of rear ends. I was tapped in the rear when my car had only 650 miles on it by a kid who hit and ran me.

The only thing limiting me is time, I have a small machine shop and a full electronics lab. Programming microcontrollers is my forte so I should be able to come up with something and hopefully it will be something others can copy or at least figure out how to make their own adaptation of - we'll see, I have parts coming and then I'll dig into it.
Rob

 

[LoneR]

The problem is that the hatch mounted lights are sealed LED assemblies, thus not allowing individual LED operations. Therefore, the only options are:

1. Dim marker operation and brighten signal operation.
2. Flash all signal operations.

Both of those are illegal by DOT standards. The best option is to add a brake/turn signal strip to the hatch.

 

[Jackalopes]

Charley,
The solutions I see all have short comings. The trouble with this solution is that the parking lights are dimmed and that might not meet code, also the PWM dimmer's reliability is questionable. I am working on a solution, we'll see if it works. My criteria is to have all the lights work at their original brightness and as they original did plus have brake lights come on also around or inside the middle parking lights. It has to also be very reliable.

My thinking is that there is a real issue with people not seeing the brakes because their eyes expect the middle lights to get brighter when braking. GM really dropped the ball on this and I'm seeing people rear ended higher than the average percentage of rear ends. I was tapped in the rear when my car had only 650 miles on it by a kid who hit and ran me.

The only thing limiting me is time, I have a small machine shop and a full electronics lab. Programming microcontrollers is my forte so I should be able to come up with something and hopefully it will be something others can copy or at least figure out how to make their own adaptation of - we'll see, I have parts coming and then I'll dig into it.
Rob

Hey Rob, I've been looking into designing a plug-and-play solution but lack the electronic experience that you have. My background is more along the lines of basic electrical and mechanics. I'd love to work with you on creating something that would help solve this lighting challenge. Please let me know what I can do to help you on this endeavor!

 

[John Trabolta]

Here's a video of my lights in action.

This looks great! Is there a wiring diagram to combine the outer running lights with the turn signals as it appears you've also done?

 

[Robaroni]

Hey Rob, I've been looking into designing a plug-and-play solution but lack the electronic experience that you have. My background is more along the lines of basic electrical and mechanics. I'd love to work with you on creating something that would help solve this lighting challenge. Please let me know what I can do to help you on this endeavor!

Thanks Jack.
I will be addressing this issue as soon as possible, I'll keep everyone posted as to what I come up with but won't know until I dig into what is needed. Does anyone have a schematic of the rear lighting?

I've done extensive work with high frequency pulsing of LEDs, I might try something in that area. What would happen is the taillight would be pulsed with a boost regulator to higher than 12 volts when the brake is on, because the frequency is high and the duration is very short the LED is not in danger of burning out but it gets brighter. This way you could use the tail light at normal brightness and when the brakes are applied they would be brighter. It depends on how GM drives the LEDs, current limiting, etc. if it's just 12v that makes it doable. I'll play around on my simulation program when i get a chance and build a prototype, I have LED circuits I designed with this typology and they have been running for years with no problems. It's spring and we get very busy around here this time of the year, so please be patient - thanks.

What I recommend people do is lightly tap their brake pedal when they come to a stop if they feel they're in a situation where they might be vulnerable, that's what I've been doing. A light going on and off increases its noticeability, the brake switch comes on before the brakes engage, you'll have to try it and you' will get the idea of what I'm talking about.

 

[CharleyTX]

My idea was to do something like this:
the middle set of light isolated/disconnected from the car.
Use a Euro style trailer lights control assembly; this is usually the 6 wire input set up where we feed it turn signal (normally the separate yellow turn signal on the car) , brake lights and night running light separately and it converts it to the US type trailer light - 4 wires. This signal could be fed to the EUV's middle light.
this way it would flash with turn signal , light up with brakes and would light up at night as regular tail light. just as your typical trailer light.

 

[Robaroni]

My idea was to do something like this:
the middle set of light isolated/disconnected from the car.
Use a Euro style trailer lights control assembly; this is usually the 6 wire input set up where we feed it turn signal (normally the separate yellow turn signal on the car) , brake lights and night running light separately and it converts it to the US type trailer light - 4 wires. This signal could be fed to the EUV's middle light.
this way it would flash with turn signal , light up with brakes and would light up at night as regular tail light. just as your typical trailer light.

Interesting!

 

[Jackalopes]

Does anyone have a schematic of the rear lighting?

Check your DM's

 

[Rainystateguy]

Here is a video of the $40 LED strip that I bought off of Amazon in action. I've been using it for a few months now, and does seem to make a difference on how cars behind me behave. I simply wired it into the 3rd brake light wiring at the top of the hatch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089NFZ6R5

 

[Tom HB]

Here is a video of the $40 LED strip that I bought off of Amazon in action. I've been using it for a few months now, and does seem to make a difference on how cars behind me behave. I simply wired it into the 3rd brake light wiring at the top of the hatch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089NFZ6R5

Wow, that looks really nice!