[pkaso]

The front lights also are isolated?

Do not effect front lights

 

[Jim99]

I just finished. The wiring was not too bad, but putting the hatch panel back on was a pain in the butt. I broke half the clips and AAP didn’t have the proper replacements.

I know I could have done all my wiring from the top of the hatch, but I had my concerns around the taillight wires as the 3rd brake light wires on my EV are different than those on the video.

Anyway, below are some pictures of theDynamic Diodes in action. I’m reasonably happy with the outcome.
O

 

[Electric Personality]

So how cool would it be to just wire it to act like a regular taillight using input from the bumper brake / turn signal…

 

[deanhatescoffee]

So how cool would it be to just wire it to act like a regular taillight using input from the bumper brake / turn signal…

That would be very cool, but (from what I understand) it would be more difficult to do and would require running a lot more wire from the bumper up and around the frame into the hatch.

 

[BillG49]

So how cool would it be to just wire it to act like a regular taillight using input from the bumper brake / turn signal…

The OP is working on a solution that will connect the side lights to the turn signals.
See this post.

 

[davefrederick55]

I did not read every post but a FYI for all PWM in this module stands for pulse width modulation the same scheme GM used to dim the regular headlights for DRL use. I am a retired GM electrician.

 

[pkaso]

I did not read every post but a FYI for all PWM in this module stands for pulse width modulation the same scheme GM used to dim the regular headlights for DRL use. I am a retired GM electrician.

Yes
You correct, i do not explain what PWM is and haw it works, my bet. It is proper way of controlling brightness of LED (basically turning led On/Off at different rate) yours eyes dont see on/off because its happened quickly, like old move film you see motion despite its made of individual picture.
It is proper way to control brightness for LED (adjustable On/Off) compete to adjusting voltage for incandescent light.
The is youtube video about PWM dimmer using scope (oscilloscope), some high speed camera can see it.
For most people its just dimmer, look like incandescent lights going to history book, joining candle and oil lamps, gas lamps.
On the side note i did see gas pluming and chandler in NYC old 1800 Brownstone buildings in Bronx (people bought them at city auction), craftsmanship of work is stunning, i wish to see some replica working, but i doubt it safe to use them inside buildings this days.

 

[Jim99]

So far, so good for my PWM installation. It’s working well and I’m happy with the operation of this mod. I did have to replace 6 retaining clips on the hatch cover as I pulled it off with all of the other hatch trim. While I had everything apart, I decided to use only one PWM to control both lights as I couldn’t get the two lights to match on the dim mode. Now the brightness with the running lights on and not braking is the same on both sides.

I’ve been waiting since I bought the car for a solution and this definitely makes me happy.
Thank you, @pkaso

 

[no-gas]

Hey @Jim99 ... Do you mind posting where you bought the retaining clips so in case others broke theirs, they can get replacements? Please post part numbers if available too.

 

[Jim99]

Hey @Jim99 ... Do you mind posting where you bought the retaining clips so in case others broke theirs, they can get replacements? Please post part numbers if available too.

I bought them at a local Napa store. They’re for a Ford as per the package, but they are of the same size and dimension as what GM uses on our Bolt hatch covers. In my excitement, I tore the package open right where the part number was. At least most of it is legible.

 

[no-gas]

Thank you, Jim!!

 

[Jim99]

Thank you, Jim!!

You’re welcome!

If you’re using the Dynamic Diode PWM, just use one for both taillights. It’s easier and keeps he lower voltage light level the same in both lights. Using one for each light is a pain as you will need to adjust and readjust to get both lights at the same brightness.

 

[dslucki]

You’re welcome!

If you’re using the Dynamic Diode PWM, just use one for both taillights. It’s easier and keeps he lower voltage light level the same in both lights. Using one for each light is a pain as you will need to adjust and readjust to get both lights at the same brightness.

I was hoping we could use one Dynamic Diode PWM for both rather than use two of them. Good to know.

 

[dslucki]

Yes
You correct, i do not explain what PWM is and haw it works, my bet. It is proper way of controlling brightness of LED (basically turning led On/Off at different rate) yours eyes dont see on/off because its happened quickly, like old move film you see motion despite its made of individual picture.
It is proper way to control brightness for LED (adjustable On/Off) compete to adjusting voltage for incandescent light.
The is youtube video about PWM dimmer using scope (oscilloscope), some high speed camera can see it.
For most people its just dimmer, look like incandescent lights going to history book, joining candle and oil lamps, gas lamps.
On the side note i did see gas pluming and chandler in NYC old 1800 Brownstone buildings in Bronx (people bought them at city auction), craftsmanship of work is stunning, i wish to see some replica working, but i doubt it safe to use them inside buildings this days.

Here is a YouTube video from DiodeDynamics which explains exactly how this item works and what PWM is.

 

[Jim99]

I was hoping we could use one Dynamic Diode PWM for both rather than use two of them. Good to know.

It’s a little less wiring to use just one PWM, so it keeps it a bit simpler. Also, the Dynamic Diode PWM adjustment dial is a bit sensitive, so having to adjust both to the same level of brightness for the low voltage is somewhat of a pain. Using one PWM takes that issue out of the equation.

 

[Jim99]

Below are a couple of pictures I just took. The difference is quite noticeable in the dark.

 

[deanhatescoffee]

Below are a couple of pictures I just took. The difference is quite noticeable in the dark.
View attachment 49359
View attachment 49360
View attachment 49361
View attachment 49362

Jim, I think you said that the wiring was a little different in the EV than in pkaso's video with the EUV. Did you happen to take any pictures of the wiring, or do you recall what was different?

 

[Jim99]

The difference is with the third brake light wiring. pkaso tapped into the brown/yellow wire on the third brake light to supply power to the high voltage going into the PWM. The brown/yellow wire on mine does not provide power, but the white wire on third brake light harness does provide it. I deleted my pictures on that shortly after I installed the 2nd third brake light back in July. There are only three wires on the third brake light harness, and a test light can quickly identify the appropriate wire to tap into.

 

[BillG49]

It’s a little less wiring to use just one PWM, so it keeps it a bit simpler. Also, the Dynamic Diode PWM adjustment dial is a bit sensitive, so having to adjust both to the same level of brightness for the low voltage is somewhat of a pain. Using one PWM takes that issue out of the equation.

I believe the OP adjusted the low side to minimum (he said "max", but I think he meant max dimming) on both circuits, so maybe they would match if adjusted that way. Of course, then you wouldn't have an extra PWN.

 

[Evolt]

So how cool would it be to just wire it to act like a regular taillight using input from the bumper brake / turn signal…

You could use a trailer light power module like this one if you want to have the tail light to act like a turn signal:
Tekonsha 119148 - Tekonsha Trailer Light Power Module Wiring Kit

Someone with an older Bolt did it using that trailer module from the link above.