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Hello, this is my first post. this is my first EV I bought it with 2200 miles and I've had it for less than 1 week. Its a 2017 kinetic blue lt. Mfg date 6-17. I just got the message on the driver info center about conditions incorrect for shift when trying to reverse 1st time just today. The On star rep ran a diagnostic and said nothing is wrong. I'm here on the forum hoping to find out from other bolt owners what repairs were ultimately needed to fix it.
PS I'm in the middle of nowhere west Texas and I'll probably have to take this to Dallas 8 hours away to a dealer since they don't even sell them around here. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
 

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Things generally fail at one of two times in their service life: when they are new or when they are old. You were the unlucky recipient of an 'infant mortality'. After all, the Bolt is in it's first generation and there is quite a bit of new technology being introduced, so some failures can be expected. And it looks like yours was one of the earlier deliveries. At least you got a free loaner until your Bolt is fixed. Many dealers won't extend this courtesy.

johndamour: How long did it take to get your Bolt back? Replacing the battery pack is a Big Project: the thing weighs just under half a ton, it's huge, and is actually a structural member in the chassis. It's highly likely the service group performing the tradeout had never done it before, and it's possible they had to send someone from Detroit to supervise the replacement. Yeah, it's likely your Bolt was used as a training development exercise for field replacement of the battery pack.
 

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I just got the message on the driver info center about conditions incorrect for shift when trying to reverse 1st time just today. The On star rep ran a diagnostic and said nothing is wrong.
Trying to shift to quickly after turning the car on might possibly produce something like that behaviour. I've seen a "Wait to shift" message on the Driver Information Centre if I try to shift too early, so I've learned to busy myself with something else for a few moments after turning the car on before I move the shift lever.
 

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If you grab the shifter a little too hard while attempting to shift into reverse, your index finger MCP joint (where the finger is attached = metacarpal-phalangeal joint) presses the park button simultaneously with your thumb pressing the “allow me to move the shifter to the left” button, cancelling them both out. Sean is right - just slow your motions down!
 

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Hello, this is my first post. this is my first EV I bought it with 2200 miles and I've had it for less than 1 week. Its a 2017 kinetic blue lt. Mfg date 6-17. I just got the message on the driver info center about conditions incorrect for shift when trying to reverse 1st time just today. The On star rep ran a diagnostic and said nothing is wrong. I'm here on the forum hoping to find out from other bolt owners what repairs were ultimately needed to fix it.
PS I'm in the middle of nowhere west Texas and I'll probably have to take this to Dallas 8 hours away to a dealer since they don't even sell them around here. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
1) You should really start a new thread for a new issue - it makes it a LOT easier to track issues that way.

2) If it isn't a "manual shifting error", then the next thing to do is *check your 12-volt battery* !!! Yes, the standard, generic, "start my car engine"-type battery - it is used to run all of the accessories (including all the "computers") in the vehicle. Weird, wonky errors happen when that battery is under-charged - reported several times, including "conditions incorrect for shift".

So, get a voltometer (or ask friends who has one, and borrow it) so that you can check the voltage. A 'full' 12V battery should be around 12.6V, and it really should be at or above 12.5V. Anything around 12V is 'not good', and anything under 12V is *a bad thing*. If your 12V battery *is* low, try charging it (using a standard 12V battery charger *that can handle AGM batteries*). If that does fix your problem, you should try and keep an eye on the battery voltage. Also, if you bought the car through a dealer, you should inform them (and get paperwork) stating that the 12V battery was severely under-charged, causing a problem such that you couldn't drive the vehicle. Because the 12V battery might be bad - and you want to start documenting that now. In fact, if a test shows the 12V battery is low, you should press that On*Star button in the vehicle and ask if they can see what the voltage on the 12V battery is - BEFORE you charge it. Either way (even if they can't check) you will have a 'paper trail' that you had a problem.

(PS : can one of the mods move this - and the original post on this topic - to its own thread. Thx.)
 

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Trying to shift to quickly after turning the car on might possibly produce something like that behaviour. I've seen a "Wait to shift" message on the Driver Information Centre if I try to shift too early, so I've learned to busy myself with something else for a few moments after turning the car on before I move the shift lever.
Personally, I do this, in order :

- turn on vehicle

- THEN put on safety belt

- Fiddle with radio (if needed), or climate controls (if needed)

- THEN take off the parking brake

- shift into the gear I want

This allows the vehicle to 'boot up', AND enough time such that the car's main battery is up so that the motor retracting the brakes doesn't pull current solely from the (possibly low) 12V battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sparke - apologize for posting in the wrong place I work 2 stressful jobs and wrecking my old car and buying a new electric car has been a very stressful process. I read Your advice carefully. My boss has a multimeter I can borrow - I'll Check agm voltage today after work and report back here. Do You think a non bolt certified Chevy dealer could replace this? Additional Dumb question of the day wouldn't both driving or charging at 110v either one of those accomplish charging the 12v agm? I know there is no more alternator but I figured regen braking would help keep it charged.
PS the error message occurred only once and after I drove about 5 miles to check out a local charging station in my town. It happened when I tried to reverse. Too bad I didn't think to take a photo before it disappeared.
 

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I find, in the winter, when it is cold, and my wife and I both desire seat heat, if I shift too soon, it delays seat heat activation. Waiting till the boot is finished let’s us hit the heat icon, THEN shift, which works better. When Spring comes ...
 

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Do You think a non bolt certified Chevy dealer could replace this? Additional Dumb question of the day wouldn't both driving or charging at 110v either one of those accomplish charging the 12v agm?
IF your battery is toast, any Chevy dealer should be able to replace it (although the dealer may have to order it). If the battery is low when you test it, ask the dealer to test the battery (under warranty) - not just the voltage, but a load test.

The 12V battery *is* charged when driving, and when charging the main (propulsion) battery. But if it was really low (perhaps it sat on a lot for 3 months) the charging logic which is fine for maintaining the 12V battery may not be sufficient to re-charge it from low voltage.

At the moment, I am trickle charging the 12V in my ICE (which has been mostly sitting for about a month - I think I've driven it twice). It has been charging for the last 12 hours (it *is* a low-amp trickle charger) and I expect the charge to finish sometime during the night (it is a smart charger - it will stop itself when the battery is fully charged).
 

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You can take your car to anyplace that sells batteries, have them check the battery.

If they say the battery is toast, try to get it in writing, then take that with you to any Chevy dealer.

It just gives you a little more ammunition going into the dealer, GM pays them for working on your car they like to see work coming in.
 

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IF your battery is toast, any Chevy dealer should be able to replace it (although the dealer may have to order it). If the battery is low when you test it, ask the dealer to test the battery (under warranty) - not just the voltage, but a load test.

The 12V battery *is* charged when driving, and when charging the main (propulsion) battery. But if it was really low (perhaps it sat on a lot for 3 months) the charging logic which is fine for maintaining the 12V battery may not be sufficient to re-charge it from low voltage.

At the moment, I am trickle charging the 12V in my ICE (which has been mostly sitting for about a month - I think I've driven it twice). It has been charging for the last 12 hours (it *is* a low-amp trickle charger) and I expect the charge to finish sometime during the night (it is a smart charger - it will stop itself when the battery is fully charged).
SparkE, You seem familiar to me. Do you happen to be one of the old souls that haunted the EV-1/RAV4-EV/Ranger-EV/S-10 EV lists back in the day?
 

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...wouldn't both driving or charging at 110v either one of those accomplish charging the 12v agm?
The algorithm for charging the 12V battery is a lot more complex than you might first guess. The car will charge it while turned off and plugged in, it not continuously - it will only check periodically and charge for a given length of time. As noted by SparkE, that may not be sufficient if the battery is in poor condition (if, for example, it sat on the lot for months without having been charged).
 

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Hello, this is my first post. this is my first EV I bought it with 2200 miles and I've had it for less than 1 week. Its a 2017 kinetic blue lt. Mfg date 6-17. I just got the message on the driver info center about conditions incorrect for shift when trying to reverse 1st time just today. The On star rep ran a diagnostic and said nothing is wrong. I'm here on the forum hoping to find out from other bolt owners what repairs were ultimately needed to fix it.
PS I'm in the middle of nowhere west Texas and I'll probably have to take this to Dallas 8 hours away to a dealer since they don't even sell them around here. Thanks in advance for the feedback.
I had a similar problem. Solved it by turning my Bolt on/off at least 3 times. I had the added problem of my HVAC GUI controls were not responding (see this thread).

Ultimately, the dealer couldn't figure out the codes but based on symptoms and a procedure from GM, replaced the shifter knob assembly.
 

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There have also been various problems with 'modules' sucking more power than they should (and needing to be replaced), thus draining the 12V battery. OR (a different case), the vehicle being in "shipment mode" (I don't think I got the term 100% correct), which horked the battery logic, draining the 12V battery.

But, it *could* simply be shifting too quickly after turning on the vehicle.
 

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SparkE, You seem familiar to me. Do you happen to be one of the old souls that haunted the EV-1/RAV4-EV/Ranger-EV/S-10 EV lists back in the day?
Nope. It must have been some other handsome genius. :D
 
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