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2017 Bolt LT - Gunmetal Gray
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT: There is a new, simplified version of this post. For information on Factory Radio and Wiring, go HERE.
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I'm putting in aftermarket amplifiers and speakers. I have two questions for the people who customize their vehicles.

1) I need to run 12V from the standard battery into the cabin, to power my amplifiers and other equipment. What is the best (or easiest) way to get a 12V wire (0 AWG) into the cabin from the bay under the hood? I was thinking through the firewall, but as far as I can tell, it's solid metal, and requires drilling.
I'm down to drill a hole in my car, but I'm hoping there's some rubber mesh or other material I can go through to get a decent sized wire into the cabin. (Will be powering 1,500W total of Audio eqpt)

2) How in the heck do I remove this factory radio?? My first thought as a radio installer is to pry on the black plastics surrounding the screen itself, but I don't want to break anything on my shiny new car.. If anyone has done this before, or there is someone out there that has done this, please let me know. I have all the wiring and harnesses made and ready. (I work for a radio company)

EDIT: Both of these issues have been solved. See later in this thread, I answer both Questions.
Answer 1: Reply #5
Answer 2: Reply #9
 

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I'm putting in aftermarket amplifiers and speakers. I have two questions for the people who customize their vehicles.

1) I need to run 12V from the standard battery into the cabin, to power my amplifiers and other equipment. What is the best (or easiest) way to get a 12V wire (0 AWG) into the cabin from the bay under the hood? I was thinking through the firewall, but as far as I can tell, it's solid metal, and requires drilling.
I'm down to drill a hole in my car, but I'm hoping there's some rubber mesh or other material I can go through to get a decent sized wire into the cabin. (Will be powering 1,500W total of Audio eqpt)

2) How in the heck do I remove this factory radio?? My first thought as a radio installer is to pry on the black plastics surrounding the screen itself, but I don't want to break anything on my shiny new car.. If anyone has done this before, or there is someone out there that has done this, please let me know. I have all the wiring and harnesses made and ready. (I work for a radio company)
The Bolt EV doesn't have a radio head unit. You're talking about removing the Infotainment screen, which is your interface for crucial vehicle systems. If you want to add a head unit, it would be in addition to the Infotainment screen, not a replacement.
 

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2017 Bolt LT - Gunmetal Gray
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Bolt EV doesn't have a radio head unit. You're talking about removing the Infotainment screen, which is your interface for crucial vehicle systems. If you want to add a head unit, it would be in addition to the Infotainment screen, not a replacement.
Sorry, my bad wording... I mean to remove it like take it out of the dashboard. I will not be replacing the headunit. I just need to know how to get to the wiring harnesses behind it, so I can plug in my T-Harness for my Amplifier.
 

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Sorry, my bad wording... I mean to remove it like take it out of the dashboard. I will not be replacing the headunit. I just need to know how to get to the wiring harnesses behind it, so I can plug in my T-Harness for my Amplifier.
Ah. I do recall some someone cracking open the dash, but I can't remember where it was posted. Of course, I might be confusing that with the Volt.

I'd just search around to see what you can find.
 

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2017 Bolt LT - Gunmetal Gray
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2017 Bolt LT - Gunmetal Gray
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I need to run 12V from the standard battery into the cabin, to power my amplifiers and other equipment. What is the best (or easiest) way to get a 12V wire (0 AWG) into the cabin from the bay under the hood? I was thinking through the firewall, but as far as I can tell, it's solid metal, and requires drilling.
I'm down to drill a hole in my car, but I'm hoping there's some rubber mesh or other material I can go through to get a decent sized wire into the cabin. (Will be powering 1,500W total of Audio eqpt)
If anyone has a good answer for this, please let me know in this thread.
 

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Your follow up is the kind of post that makes you a good addition to our forum... I wish more people would post of the answers to their own questions if they figure it out to help out their fellow board members.

I have not done this myself, this is just speculation.... If you can avoid the hard bits of the system I would probably go in through the ventilation system, plastic ducting is easier to get through than the firewall and you can seal the penetration with some RTV to keep it weather tight, but not sure if you can get into the ducting on the outside of the firewall and back out on the inside of the firewall while avoiding the blower and heat exchangers or not.

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your follow up is the kind of post that makes you a good addition to our forum... I wish more people would post of the answers to their own questions if they figure it out to help out their fellow board members.

If it were me, I would probably go in through the ventilation system, plastic ducting is easier to get through than the firewall and you can seal the penetration with some RTV to keep it weather tight.

Keith
Thanks for the suggestion. With my AC system already being weak as it is, I'll keep looking through my car today to find out if there is any other way. I'll post again if I figure out anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. With my AC system already being weak as it is, I'll keep looking through my car today to find out if there is any other way. I'll post again if I figure out anything.
GOT IT!!!

If anyone else needs to run ANY wires from the hood/motor controller bay to the interior of the Cabin, here's your spot!!

Under the driver's wheel, to the left of the brake and accelerator pedals there is a massive rubber circle (grommet) which can be easily pulled back and used for wires, or pushed through. It's about 5 inches diameter.

Below are photos and videos of it. It leads straight to the space under the hood, behind the battery.

Link to Video showing the Grommet location and how to open it:
iCloud

Link Backup: (Same Video, just different Link)
Chevy Bolt Rubber Grommet Video SDHIGH.mp4
 

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How did you re-seat/install that main grommet securely, any tips or tricks?

I should've just poked a tiny hole and fed my wire through, but my stupid curiosity made me pull the side back to investigate (like shown in the pics above). But now I can't see to get it re-seated properly. I've tried pushing (where it says "PUSH", and pulling the edges over that inside plastic ring. But I know it's not really seated properly like it was...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How did you re-seat/install that main grommet securely, any tips or tricks?

I should've just poked a tiny hole and fed my wire through, but my stupid curiosity made me pull the side back to investigate (like shown in the pics above). But now I can't see to get it re-seated properly. I've tried pushing (where it says "PUSH", and pulling the edges over that inside plastic ring. But I know it's not really seated properly like it was...
It just takes some finagling and effort. I actually run wires through that Grommet, but it looks like you just need to align it properly and push in.
Here's a video of what I noticed: YouTube Link

Keep in mind I live in southern California. Coldest we get is 28* winters, and hottest is 120* summers. I don't notice any wind or air coming through this grommet, even like this with it open.
 

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How did you re-seat/install that main grommet securely, any tips or tricks?
Were you ever able to solve this? Like JustLovett0, I kept mine open after this project, but a rodent got in this weekend, chewed through that wire and some of the grommet, and generally made a mess inside. I tried to get the grommet back on with no success, pushing, pulling bending, anything I could think. The problem, I think, is that pushing also pushes the plastic it's supposed to seal around into the firewall so the seal can't wrap around it. I'm going to try to get someone to push on the other side of that plastic from under the hood and see if that helps. Would love to know how someone else accomplished it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Were you ever able to solve this? Like JustLovett0, I kept mine open after this project, but a rodent got in this weekend, chewed through that wire and some of the grommet, and generally made a mess inside. I tried to get the grommet back on with no success, pushing, pulling bending, anything I could think. The problem, I think, is that pushing also pushes the plastic it's supposed to seal around into the firewall so the seal can't wrap around it. I'm going to try to get someone to push on the other side of that plastic from under the hood and see if that helps. Would love to know how someone else accomplished it.
Best thing I can think of is to punch out or drill a hole though it, then thread your wire through it. That's what Grommets are for. If not that, make a new hole and add your own grommet.
 

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Were you ever able to solve this?
Sorry, just seeing this. But no, I was never able to figure out how to get it securely situated back in place. I gave up. Haven't noticed any cold air rushing in or anything. But, when I think about it every so often, I wonder if I'll ever regret not figuring it out! (Your rodent story will give me nightmares, haha, maybe fresh motivation to keep trying)
 
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