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So a few weeks ago on my 30 minute ride to work with the heat set at 61F, the temperature in the cabin got to 74F. It did this for several days in a row and it was very cold outside, just around 28-34F.

So today it was 47F and temperature set to 61, the temp in the car was around 55F after preconditioning and 15 minutes of driving. Recirc on "interior recirc", fan on auto. The fan wasn't hardly running... I jacked the temp control up to 74 to even get the fan to speed up, then the car got to 65 and I shut the heat off.

I carry a small IR thermometer and I'm measuring the temperature of the foot well and the driver's sun visor. This is maddening! My wife doesn't have to fiddle with the heat in the Model S at all! GM can't design a doggone temperature control???? what gives guys?
 

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The car has an auto heat control for the HVAC and heated seats.
Measuring with an IR is useless. It's reading the surfaces, not air temp.

The system isn't reading where you're pointing that IR gun either. It uses the inside of the HVAC case, the vent tubes and the cabin temperature readings the micro fan pulls in to decide what the temp is.

It's a balance between the two. So stop being so anal about it and understand it has it's own data inputs. You'll be a much happier camper when you just use the rotatory knob on the dash to find what makes you comfortable.
 

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74, system on recirc if cold otherwise whatever, blower on 3 or 4, everything in "manual" mode works for me. I find the blower's "hunting" to be an irritant but others may not.

The first time I drove in colder weather I was a little paranoid about using heat, had temperature turned all the way down, in recirc. At a certain point the car took over and decided my fogging windshield was an issue, added heat. I wonder if that could be the case here?
 

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So a few weeks ago on my 30 minute ride to work with the heat set at 61F, the temperature in the cabin got to 74F. It did this for several days in a row and it was very cold outside, just around 28-34F.

So today it was 47F and temperature set to 61, the temp in the car was around 55F after preconditioning and 15 minutes of driving. Recirc on "interior recirc", fan on auto. The fan wasn't hardly running... I jacked the temp control up to 74 to even get the fan to speed up, then the car got to 65 and I shut the heat off.

I carry a small IR thermometer and I'm measuring the temperature of the foot well and the driver's sun visor. This is maddening! My wife doesn't have to fiddle with the heat in the Model S at all! GM can't design a doggone temperature control???? what gives guys?
If you believe that the heating system isn’t accurate or reliable make an appointment with your dealer and have it checked out. It may be that some sensor isn’t registering properly.

In cold weather I set the temp to around 74, then dial it down a few degrees at a time once the cabin heats up. In my 2017 there’s no separate heat and a/c controls, so turning it down too quickly will actually turn on the a/c, not very helpful when it’s cold outside.

In general, I find the heat and a/c to be pretty accurate, and the cabin heats and cools pretty quickly. I don’t worry about how much energy I’m using, I’d rather be comfortable.
 

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So a few weeks ago on my 30 minute ride to work with the heat set at 61F, the temperature in the cabin got to 74F. It did this for several days in a row and it was very cold outside, just around 28-34F.

So today it was 47F and temperature set to 61, the temp in the car was around 55F after preconditioning and 15 minutes of driving. Recirc on "interior recirc", fan on auto. The fan wasn't hardly running... I jacked the temp control up to 74 to even get the fan to speed up, then the car got to 65 and I shut the heat off.

I carry a small IR thermometer and I'm measuring the temperature of the foot well and the driver's sun visor. This is maddening! My wife doesn't have to fiddle with the heat in the Model S at all! GM can't design a doggone temperature control???? what gives guys?
I concur. This is one of the more frustrating parts of the Bolt experience for me. Getting in a cold car on a cold day and having it blast cold air at me because some time in the recent past a few photons direct from the sun managed to make it to the dash is... frustrating. My old car parked in the same spot never tried to freeze me (my spot is usually in shade at this time f the year when I leave work). Maddeningly, the car knows it's still bloody cold. I know this because it tells me so right on the infotainment screen. I reckon that when it's 43F outside there's no need to blast cold air.

And my Bolt is white while my old car was black, so the old car should have been more prone to climate shenanigans.
 

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I concur. This is one of the more frustrating parts of the Bolt experience for me. Getting in a cold car on a cold day and having it blast cold air at me because some time in the recent past a few photons direct from the sun managed to make it to the dash is... frustrating. My old car parked in the same spot never tried to freeze me (my spot is usually in shade at this time f the year when I leave work). Maddeningly, the car knows it's still bloody cold. I know this because it tells me so right on the infotainment screen. I reckon that when it's 43F outside there's no need to blast cold air.

And my Bolt is white while my old car was black, so the old car should have been more prone to climate shenanigans.
If would really be nice if they’d hold off blasting the fan if the water temp in the heating loop is cold. For Pete’s sake!!! I wish there was a readout on the dash of what the cabin temp was... alas i fiddle with the **** heat controls a lot on the way to work!
 

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Love it... when you use wordie dirds like d a m. N. The forum censors them so you can just imagine the relatively innocent word that I used as any really dirty word you can think of! Wooo!!! Lol.
 

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If you believe that the heating system isn’t accurate or reliable make an appointment with your dealer and have it checked out. It may be that some sensor isn’t registering properly.

In cold weather I set the temp to around 74, then dial it down a few degrees at a time once the cabin heats up. In my 2017 there’s no separate heat and a/c controls, so turning it down too quickly will actually turn on the a/c, not very helpful when it’s cold outside.

In general, I find the heat and a/c to be pretty accurate, and the cabin heats and cools pretty quickly. I don’t worry about how much energy I’m using, I’d rather be comfortable.

Interesting. On my winter road trips I have got into setting cabin for auto and 21c. Then turning hvac 'off' for a few miles when the (darling) system blasts the cold air. I realize I have our house thermostat set in 'f' to help mitigate temperature swings so will try that in the Bolt too!
 

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Running the heater in automatic mode is bollocks!
I find that the heater works well in the Auto setting, I rarely override it by using the manual fan speed control.

The only problem I’ve encountered is that turning down the heat must be done in small increments, otherwise the system will switch to a/c. I believe this problem has been solved in the newer models with separate heat / a/c switches.
 
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If would really be nice if they’d hold off blasting the fan if the water temp in the heating loop is cold. For Pete’s sake!!! I wish there was a readout on the dash of what the cabin temp was... alas i fiddle with the **** heat controls a lot on the way to work!
If you want improvement, I'd change the A/C first. Initial startup on a hot day should use outside air first until the cabin is brought down to roughly outside temp, THEN and only then go to recirc and "max AC". Even better would be auto drop and raise the windows, but that would be a "safety" hazard.
 

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Better off just using/setting the heat manually vs. "auto" mode.


Just remember a cold soaked car takes a few min to get the heating loop up to temp, so don't blast the fan on full as soon as you start the car. Set it at the temp you want and put the fan on speed 1 for a few min till you actually feel warm air coming out the vents... then you can crank the fan higher without getting blasted with cold air.
 

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Sorry I have not tracked down all quotes, but several have mentioned some of the following issues: It would be nice to have the interior temperature readout on the dash, as well as the exterior temperature. Presently, the HVAC only shows the set temperature, not the actual temperature. Also, I would like to see a readout of energy being used by the HVAC, so when the heater is on, I could dial down, or dial up the temperature and see what effect it has on energy use.

Nevertheless, it is possible to vary the fan speed in "auto" mode by varying the set temperature. So, if the air flow is too high, its possible to bring it down without going out of "auto HVAC" mode.
 

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The car has an auto heat control for the HVAC and heated seats.
Measuring with an IR is useless. It's reading the surfaces, not air temp.

The system isn't reading where you're pointing that IR gun either. It uses the inside of the HVAC case, the vent tubes and the cabin temperature readings the micro fan pulls in to decide what the temp is.

It's a balance between the two. So stop being so anal about it and understand it has it's own data inputs. You'll be a much happier camper when you just use the rotatory knob on the dash to find what makes you comfortable.
I tried that rotary knob idea but it doesn't quite solve the problem. My car starts its day in a garage, plugged in. Most mornings, it is around freezing or below. I set the temperature to 61 and that is too hot. I turn off the heat and the windows fog up. So, I keep turning the fan on and off during my 50+ minute commute. It isn't horrible but when I saw your message, I thought I'd reply. (Setting to LO is too cold.)



Oddly enough, on my trip home, 61 is too cold. I set the temperature to 66-68 and I'm quite comfortable. During the day, the car is parked in an outside parking lot without access to electricity.


The other factor is that I drive to work in daylight, not necessarily sun but daylight. When I drive home, it is night.



My objection to that rotary dial thing is that it doesn't go below 61.
 

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Life is always tradeoffs. No, the HVAC temp control in the Bolt is not as good as most higher end ICEs, once they're fully warmed. Just yesterday, below freezing outside and it took ten miles and ten minutes to get any heat and defrost out of my F250 work truck.
Yes, the Bolt is much better than ICEs in that it can be fully preconditioned and warmed before one sets out. So nice to step into a warm, toasty car and the defroster works instantly.

jack vines
 

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I turn off the heat and the windows fog up.
The Bolt's defroster is anemic, but better than nothing.
Take recirc off, allow outside air in.
Have the fan blowing on the windows. Moving air fogs less than still air.
Run the defroster some.
 

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Theoretically, moving air creates a region of lower pressure. Lower pressure reduces the evaporation temperature of water, which should in turn more readily evaporate the condensation on the windshield.

This assumes that a myriad other variables are kept constant, which in reality is rarely the case.
 

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The car also uses a sun load sensor that's mounted on the dash. If the car is in the shade, AKA the garage. It will take a while to figure out where it needs to be after you drive it out of the shade/ AKA the garage.

Set the temp.based on what makes you feel comfortable. Ignore the readout. I use mine on high/hot/full heat setting and just turn the element and fan on and off as needed.
I balance HVB/element and DC fan use to maximize my range and comfort.
 

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I have found that unless you use full AUTO mode, the car will always have the heater on to some degree if it's cold outside, even if the cabin temperature is above your set temperature.
 
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