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I have found that unless you use full AUTO mode, the car will always have the heater on to some degree if it's cold outside, even if the cabin temperature is above your set temperature.
Only if the defog is on "AUTO" mode. You can go into setting under "Climate and Comfort" and turn off the auto defog function, then Bolt will not turn on any heat at all.
 

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Theoretically, moving air creates a region of lower pressure. Lower pressure reduces the evaporation temperature of water, which should in turn more readily evaporate the condensation on the windshield.

This assumes that a myriad other variables are kept constant, which in reality is rarely the case.
I accuse you of paying attention during the gas laws section of high school chemistry. How do you plead?
 

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I agree with TimBolt, have found that turning the heat up to around 74-75 seems to override whatever wacky sensor doesn't allow first heat in the 60's. I too have felt the cold air chill when it seems there should be heat. Once you are up to a comfortable temperature, dial it back. I would preheat that high too. Maybe the HVAC has contradictory inputs. A good experiment would be to turn on the heat to a normal setting, pop the hood and feel the 5KW heater on the far passenger side. If it is hot to touch, it is working. Also keep fan speed at minimum needed to get job done. Blowing air, even warm air, feels cool of course.
 

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I accuse you of paying attention during the gas laws section of high school chemistry. How do you plead?

Guilty, sir, with an explanation:


I *taught* high school chemistry for twenty years...:nerd:
 

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Guilty, sir, with an explanation:


I *taught* high school chemistry for twenty years...:nerd:
LOL.

One of the few "good" teachers I had in high school was my AP chem teacher. The majority had (an understandable) dislike of teenagers :)

Personally I would love to teach INTERESTED students, but the majority of them would drive me insane, plus the politics of public sector education would get on my nerves... but that work schedule is so attractive!

I wonder if I could swap career paths and make it in private school education? Or is political crap rampant there as well?

Keith

PS: On topic, I hate the Bolt Auto climate control, especially since I have a 2017 without separated heat / cool buttons. I run it in manual mode and it is fine for the most part, but auto is trash.
 

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LOL.

One of the few "good" teachers I had in high school was my AP chem teacher. The majority had (an understandable) dislike of teenagers :)

Personally I would love to teach INTERESTED students, but the majority of them would drive me insane, plus the politics of public sector education would get on my nerves... but that work schedule is so attractive!

I wonder if I could swap career paths and make it in private school education? Or is political crap rampant there as well?

Keith

PS: On topic, I hate the Bolt Auto climate control, especially since I have a 2017 without separated heat / cool buttons. I run it in manual mode and it is fine for the most part, but auto is trash.

My "attractive" work schedule was to arrive before 7AM to finish up prepping for the day, teach from 8AM to 2:30PM and then prep for the next day and grade as much stuff as I could get done by 5:30 or 6PM. That was five days a week, plus I'd go in for a full (6-8 hour) day on most Sundays to finish grading tests, quizzes and labs. Sixty hour weeks were commonplace, for me, as I taught both Chemistry *and* Physics. It helped that in Chem and Physics, the "Knucklehead Factor" was pretty low, and I was popular with the kids. I was also at a very high-performing public high school in a fairly affluent part of coastal Orange County, CA.

We were pretty well insulated from public school politics by an excellent school and district administration. I was either extremely lucky, or did everything right, (probably both) to result in my very gratifying teaching experiences.

I caution that private schools typically pay far less than public ones, and they don't enjoy many (most?) of the other benefits of working in the public sector. Class sizes do tend to be smaller, though: 20-25 students, rather than the 38 or so I experienced.
 

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Hi all, long time lurker here, I decided to sign up today to post a message in this thread. Apologies for resuscitating an old thread but I have not found any other discussion anywhere in all the forums I know to discuss my issue, so please bear with me. :)

I've been the owner of a 2019 Bolt bought new last September. So this is my first summer with the car and it usually sleeps in the garage too. Recently I've seen issues where the climate control will output heat when it is clearly very hot outside and inside the car. Once, it was over 34C outside (93F) with the sun blazing so it must have been say, 50C+ inside the car... From a distance using the MyChevrolet app, I launched a pre-conditionning to get the heat down, I assume the temp control was set to probably 23C (73F) as it is usually the case... When I got back to the car, before the 20 minutes delay expired, the climate control was blasting extremely hot air! clearly higher than the ambiant temps... Another time, I was in the car and started it up and the same thing happened again. I had to bring down the dial to 20C before I saw the A/C kick in and it was running in low speed. As the temp in the car started lowering, the fan speed picked up and the air became cooler and cooler. Then I could dial it up to 21C and so on until I got the dial back up to 23-24 to stabilize the inside temperature to a comfortable setting. So to me, it is like the car's temp sensors default to 21C when the readings are off the charts and as they cool down, things return to normal.

Other times, this doesn't happen. I have an appointment for a checkup at the dealer's next week but my feeling is, they won't be able to reproduce and will not get solved.

And yes, in line with this thread, I also find the climate control to be non-intuitive at best. You find the temps are a little too cold or too hot, turn the dial 1 degree up or down and the mode switches from heat to A/C or vice-versa*. I probably need to stop using Auto mode... Not sure about what can be done with pre-conditionning though.

Thanks for any insight,
Daniel

*Since I'm in Canada, we use the metric system. 1 degree Celcius is almost 2 degrees Farenheit which is too large in my opinion. My previous car was a Toyota Camry and it had 0.5C degree increments which seemed better suited to allow finer-grained adjustments. I suppose this problem doesn't happen in US model cars.
 

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resuscitating an old thread but I have not found any other discussion anywhere in all the forums
Welcome to the forum. This is the most recent thread on this issue that I'm aware of. With auto defrost setting on, the car will turn on the heater to help dry the air. This can happen if your humidity recently has gone up. Most of us have turned that setting to off so the air conditioning system isn't cutting into your range using the heater. There's some variation in the model years where the later models seem to be a little more possessed. Some have suggested using the Auto mode helps.
 

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Thanks but unfortunately, the auto defrost is not the issue, that's been turned off since day 1 (by the person who explained me the car at the dealer's actually). What I'm getting is Heat only even when there should clearly be A/C. I have an appointment next week so I'll see if they can find anything for this.
 

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I have had similar problems. My take is that the temp sensor takes a few minutes to “equilibrate”. So I delay turning my A/C on until down the driveway a bit. Note, when I precondition the car, the A/C has to be already on before I turn the car off. Otherwise it won’t turn on when preconditioning starts. Its the same in reverse during cold weather. I have to turn car off with the heater runnIng if I want the heater to come on for preconditioning.
 
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