[lschroeder]

Maybe the greatest benefit for occasional use while you are in San Diego is to keep the tires in good shape.

It doesn't hurt to use the car for short trips, and 87% charge is fine provided it leaves enough range for driving needs. I have been charging to Hilltop Reserve (87-88%) for almost 5 years and only charge to 100% when going on longer trips.

The 12V battery, unlike ICE, is maintained when plugged in to the grid. This is one of the most frequent reasons cited for driving your ICE car every week or two, an ICE only charges the 12V while the engine in running (unless you connect a 12V battery charger to it).

Decided to leave Bolt EV at my daughter's. When plugging into her all 120 receptacles in unattached garage except one the light was amber. The closest receptacle to garage's control panel one was mainly blue. Thanks to thread Status lights on included EVSE I was able to read PDF on supplied 120 and 240 OEM EVSE. Garage had a very large control panel. I bought Xictuwey EV Charger Control Box Holder Bracket at Amazon. When connecting Brackets as shown in Amazon picture the light on only receptacle that worked was now amber. Moved bottom bracket a foot further down. Plugged it in again and now it was again blue. Also bought Lectron EV Charger Nozzle Holster Dock and J-Hook Combination for J1772 Connector at Amazon. Connected these products to her particle board paneling. Tried out dock and everything seemed OK.

Do you think I will be okay for 7 weeks leaving her with my Bolt? Know she will not have an electrician to check out setup. Should she restrict travel to local only in order to protect tires and not risk future charge with possible lone working 120 receptacle charging issues? Will leave EVSE plugged in since with this setup it stayed blue. PS Garage is capable of heat but she leaves off.

 

[PA Bolt EV]

I don't have one of the OEM 120/240 EVSEs, but it sounds like you might have a loose connection somewhere? Ordinarily, moving the EVSE should not impact it's operation. There have been a number of forum posts emphasizing that the cord from the receptacle to the EVSE can be very difficult to get seated. Probably work checking that.

 

[lschroeder]

I don't have one of the OEM 120/240 EVSEs, but it sounds like you might have a loose connection somewhere? Ordinarily, moving the EVSE should not impact it's operation. There have been a number of forum posts emphasizing that the cord from the receptacle to the EVSE can be very difficult to get seated. Probably work checking that.

Thanks for the reply. I used circuit tester and its two lights on tester were ok at all of the 10 or more receptacles. Only one receptacle showed blue on the EVSE and the receptacle was one located near the garage panel. Others were amber and I made sure the plug was in tight and 110 adapter was also connected correctly. Plugged it in yesterday when I dropped Bolt off and checked today with mychevy app remotely (35 miles from daughter) and now at full charge of 87% (that is value I set it to). Looks like I can get by with one Bolt blue EVSE enabled receptacle.

 

[TheCyberKnight]

Hi there (first post)

We have our 2022 Chevy Bolt EV charging at home using the 120 volt cable because our home fast charger hasn't been installed yet. Winter has arrived...it's -8C (18F) outside right now, and as new Bolt owners we have a question.

We've figured out how to get 12 amps in charging and have put a limit of an 80% charge into the batteries. The car is showing a steady green light right now...do we keep the car plugged in?

Does the car stop drawing power completely, or will it keep drawing a small amount of electricity to keep the batteries at a 'good' temperature?

Murray

I know it may spark (pun intended) a debate but, why set a 80% limit?
Even GM - the car manufacturer - does not really recommend it (as in "it's not necessary").

 

[MurrayM]

I know it may spark (pun intended) a debate but, why set a 80% limit?
Even GM - the car manufacturer - does not really recommend it (as in "it's not necessary").

From what I've read, the consensus seems to be (for long term survival of batteries) that it's better to keep them between 20 & 80 percent, not to charge daily, and only charge to 100% on long road trips.

We've been keeping it plugged into 120V when the temperature falls below zero. Have been considering not keeping it plugged in during cold snaps, and plugging it in an hour or so before driving to see what that does to our electric bill.

Need to do a bit more research...

 

[BobBolt]

From what I've read, the consensus seems to be (for long term survival of batteries) that it's better to keep them between 20 & 80 percent, not to charge daily, and only charge to 100% on long road trips.

We've been keeping it plugged into 120V when the temperature falls below zero. Have been considering not keeping it plugged in during cold snaps, and plugging it in an hour or so before driving to see what that does to our electric bill.

Need to do a bit more research...

One of the benefits of a smart EVSE is that you can very easily see power draw in terms of when and how much etc. I think there are other devices you could use as well.
I haven't really quantified it yet since it depends on temperature however, compared to the price of a battery, it seems to me to be a minor maintenance cost and so my EUV is plugged in anytime it is at home winter or summer. I'm not as committed to that in spring and fall but still always plug in at night before heading to bed.
Same argument we use in the RV world....messing around to save $20 on a pail of oil might not be worth the $30K for a new Cummins.
What are you using for an EVSE, just the L1 supplied with the car?

 

[MurrayM]

...What are you using for an EVSE, just the L1 supplied with the car?

Yes. Quote from electrician came in really high for a level 2 home charger (needed to add a sub panel) so we opted for $750.00 on a charge card.

I know it's like comparing apples to orangutangs, but we've had a flooded lead acid 4D starting battery and 4 flooded lead acid golf cart batteries as a house bank in our boat for 9 years and they are still in great shape, even though the boat is plugged into shore power only in the winter months.

Treat batteries right, and they will last a long time.

 

[lschroeder]

One of the benefits of a smart EVSE is that you can very easily see power draw in terms of when and how much etc. I think there are other devices you could use as well.
I haven't really quantified it yet since it depends on temperature however, compared to the price of a battery, it seems to me to be a minor maintenance cost and so my EUV is plugged in anytime it is at home winter or summer. I'm not as committed to that in spring and fall but still always plug in at night before heading to bed.
Same argument we use in the RV world....messing around to save $20 on a pail of oil might not be worth the $30K for a new Cummins.
What are you using for an EVSE, just the L1 supplied with the car?

Using Dual EVSE L1 attachment supplied with the car at daughters. L2 attachment not used. Waiting Qmerit install at my home, using L1 at home with no problems. Problem L1 at daughter's house at all receptacles but one. See below: Conclusion everything plugged in tight and swappable GridPlug is fully inserted correctly therefore problem with way multiple receptacles are wired. Lucky that one receptacle near panel had OEM EVSE give a solid blue light.

From Dual Level manual - Amber solid light - Problem external to Charge Cordا ًCheck swappable GridPlug is fully inserted, check wall receptacle and vehicle connection

 

[BobBolt]

Yes. Quote from electrician came in really high for a level 2 home charger (needed to add a sub panel) so we opted for $750.00 on a charge card.

I know it's like comparing apples to orangutangs, but we've had a flooded lead acid 4D starting battery and 4 flooded lead acid golf cart batteries as a house bank in our boat for 9 years and they are still in great shape, even though the boat is plugged into shore power only in the winter months.

Treat batteries right, and they will last a long time.

I would quote it with a private electrician vs Qmerit and see what you get. Some of these guys are over the top with sub panels etc. go with whatever Amps you have available and source an appropriate EVSE if that turns out to be the only reasonable option.

 

[NortonCommando]

...We've been keeping it plugged into 120V when the temperature falls below zero.....

'zero' C or F?
Have you RTFM on this subject?
It doesn't cost that much to maintain the pack at a 'happy temp'.
Read the manual.
On this forum you're getting 'opinions' when they don't reference the official documents.

 

[MurrayM]

I would quote it with a private electrician vs Qmerit and see what you get. Some of these guys are over the top with sub panels etc. go with whatever Amps you have available and source an appropriate EVSE if that turns out to be the only reasonable option.

We live on BC's north coast, so Qmerit wasn't an option...it was a local electrician who gave the quote.

Thanks...will check into higher amperage level 1 charging options.

 

[MurrayM]

'zero' C or F?
Have you RTFM on this subject?
It doesn't cost that much to maintain the pack at a 'happy temp'.
Read the manual.
On this forum you're getting 'opinions' when they don't reference the official documents.

Canada = Celsius.

You are right...I will disregard posts/people that aren't helpful.

 

[NortonCommando]

Canada = Celsius.

So, according to the Owner's Manual you should be plugging in when it's 0°C.
L1 or L2.
The Manual also shows that L1 is either 8A or 12A. It's your selection in the charge settings.

 

[BobBolt]

Thanks...will check into higher amperage level 1 charging options.

Where I was going with that was to say check into what L2 options you have.
Most times you have to think for others because they can't or don't want to.
My question for the electrician is how many amps can I get on 240V given my current setup and then look at an L2 that fits the bill.
Most installers are going to quote the max amperage the car can handle whether or not you need it or will ever use it.
My 40A setup works perfect for 2 cars but I would likely need a panel upgrade if I had requested a 50A for each car.
The 40 I have now spends most of it's time sitting idle and I'm not fond of investing in idle assets where it can be avoided.

 

[MurrayM]

So, according to the Owner's Manual you should be plugging in when it's 0°C.
L1 or L2.
The Manual also shows that L1 is either 8A or 12A. It's your selection in the charge settings.

Yup, as stated earlier we've been charging at 12 amps for a 'fast' charge and have been plugging in when temperature drops to freezing or lower.