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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for a hitch with a 200 lb / 2000 lb capacity for pulling a small utility trailer. I have seen that some have installation issues, and some hang way down low...

Is there an option that is 2", tucked up tight to the bumper, and not a total pain in the butt to install?

Thanks,

Keith
 

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I got teh etrailer 1-1/2" and am happy with it. THe only 2" i know of is curtiss and requires you to remove the rear bumper fascia... the etrailer has a diagonal brace that I think is a better design.
 

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I'm very happy with the Torklift EcoHitch. I drove to their centre in Kent WA to have it installed so I can't give you a firsthand account of how easy it is, but:

- I've seen posts from others saying that it's pretty easy to install, and:

- One of the things I like about TorkLift is that they post videos of their techs installing the hitch, and that gives you a pretty good idea of how to do it. You can find the one for the Bolt here: https://torkliftcentral.com/2017-chevy-bolt-ecohitch
 

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I installed a Torklift Ecohitch myself. Took me a little bit of time but the instructions are pretty spot on - the only trickiness I encountered
* Pulling out the bumper from the sides (where plastic tabs hold it in)
* Misplacing the power connection when reinstalling the bumper (this was minor)
* Redoing the waterproof rubber seal along the edge at the end. Take note of how this looks before you begin.
Fit was perfect, looks like they've corrected the early screw slots misalignment.

While it has great clearance and I'm happy with it, https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/154...hevy-bolt-ev-today/27450-hitch-bike-rack.html has some discussion on why it may not be as good for towing (vs carrying) as the Draw-Tite. The latter is a 1.25" but is rated at 200/2000.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/121-towing/4618-trailer-hitch.html is another thread on the topic.
 

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Ditto on Torklift. Excellent instructions, within scope of self-confident and slightly competent DIYer. Wait on beer until done; some coordination is required. A helper is needed for about 5 minutes twice during the job.

If you DIY, be sure to have a nice soft landing spot for bumper fascia. Pavement would make a mess of it.

Note that the Torklift hardware is rated for 2,000 lbs towing capacity but the studs it attaches to are certainly not up to that. It's good for bike racks, cargo platform etc. But the 2" really helps with stability of those.
 

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I researched this for my Prius, and the only hitch available that hides behind the bumper was from Torklift.

They are like 2.5x more expensive than other hitches, but the only true "hidden" hitch option I could find. Hate to pay so much just to make a cleaner install, but I was happy with mine regardless. I waited for a sale to buy mine, which made it something like only 2x more expensive than other hitches. Maybe it was a Black Friday sale; I don't remember. They don't have sales often.
 

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Maybe related to redpoint5's observation on price, the one other thing I'll say about the Torklift hitches is that they're built on a Victorian scale, like something from a battleship. Maybe they'll f--k up the collapse rate of the car in a crash but it still feels pretty good attaching one inside of the collision bumper.

The weight-conscious may wish to look at another brand. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After looking over the options and taking cost into account I settled on the following:

1X Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" $107.97
2X Draw-Tite Drawbar for 1-1/4" Hitch - 2-1/8" Rise, 2-3/4" Drop - 6-5/8" Long ($23.95 each) $47.90
1X Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) $68.74
1X etrailer.com Rubber Hitch Cover for 1-1/4" Trailer Hitches $4.32
1X 1-7/8" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 2000 lbs $7.67
1X 2" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 3,500 lbs $12.01

All this for the same cost of just the receiver hitch if I stuck to the 2" receiver idea.

Later,

Keith
 

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After looking over the options and taking cost into account I settled on the following:

1X Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" $107.97
2X Draw-Tite Drawbar for 1-1/4" Hitch - 2-1/8" Rise, 2-3/4" Drop - 6-5/8" Long ($23.95 each) $47.90
1X Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) $68.74
1X etrailer.com Rubber Hitch Cover for 1-1/4" Trailer Hitches $4.32
1X 1-7/8" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 2000 lbs $7.67
1X 2" Hitch Ball - 3/4" Diameter x 1-9/16" Long Shank - Chrome - 3,500 lbs $12.01

All this for the same cost of just the receiver hitch if I stuck to the 2" receiver idea.

Later,

Keith

BTW, the Draw-Tite 1.25" is rated for a 200# tongue weight. I installed mine myself in about two hours. It does require that you cut a "notch" in the rear fascia. It's easy with a utility knife. I'm very happy with mine.

$107 from eTrailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2017_Chevrolet_Bolt+EV.htm
 

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I installed a Torklift Ecohitch myself. Took me a little bit of time but the instructions are pretty spot on - the only trickiness I encountered
* Pulling out the bumper from the sides (where plastic tabs hold it in)
* Misplacing the power connection when reinstalling the bumper (this was minor)
* Redoing the waterproof rubber seal along the edge at the end. Take note of how this looks before you begin.
Fit was perfect, looks like they've corrected the early screw slots misalignment.

While it has great clearance and I'm happy with it, https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/154...hevy-bolt-ev-today/27450-hitch-bike-rack.html has some discussion on why it may not be as good for towing (vs carrying) as the Draw-Tite. The latter is a 1.25" but is rated at 200/2000.

https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/121-towing/4618-trailer-hitch.html is another thread on the topic.
Just installed the Eco Hitch on my 2019 Bolt. Sounds like I had nearly the same issues you did, including the power connection. But what was the waterproof rubber seal are you talking about? right below the hatch? I didn't notice any issues. Hope I didn't just miss something. Very happy with how clean it is. Also would have cost me more to go with a 1 1/4 mount as I would have needed a new bike rack (not willing to use a 1 1/4 to 2" attachment which gives more slop and sticks out further).
 

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I had the same issues as noted above: pulling the bumper fascia off without damaging the plastic clips (which aren’t visible until it is off), and not paying attention to where the power connection wire was sitting when reinstalling the fascia and trapping it between the aluminum bumper and the plastic fascia (this was a fairly minor inconvenience). I did break two of the clips holding the fascia on unfortunately :-( It doesn’t show and doesn’t affect finished fit, but the thought bothers me! :)
 

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Just installed the Eco Hitch on my 2019 Bolt. Sounds like I had nearly the same issues you did, including the power connection. But what was the waterproof rubber seal are you talking about? right below the hatch? I didn't notice any issues. Hope I didn't just miss something. Very happy with how clean it is. Also would have cost me more to go with a 1 1/4 mount as I would have needed a new bike rack (not willing to use a 1 1/4 to 2" attachment which gives more slop and sticks out further).

After I put on the 1.25" receiver, I took my existing 2" bike rack to a local hitch shop, and had him remove the 2" tube and weld on a reinforced 1.25" tube. Twenty bucks.
 

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Just installed the Eco Hitch on my 2019 Bolt. Sounds like I had nearly the same issues you did, including the power connection. But what was the waterproof rubber seal are you talking about? right below the hatch? I didn't notice any issues. Hope I didn't just miss something. Very happy with how clean it is. Also would have cost me more to go with a 1 1/4 mount as I would have needed a new bike rack (not willing to use a 1 1/4 to 2" attachment which gives more slop and sticks out further).
That's just the black rubber trim that goes all around the hatch opening. I snagged some of it when putting the bumper back on and had to pull it out. The Torklift video does this in 5 seconds :).
 

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Bolt receiver hitch

I bought a DrawTite "17-18 Chevy Bolt Trailer Hitch Tow Receiver 24956 1" from Trailerjacks.com for $101 with free shipping. It's better than some others that hang down lower. It also comes with an installation video and instructional pdf. As part of my negotiations with the dealer, they installed it "free" and it'd been perfect so far. I use it to haul my trash cans up my long steep driveway (the device for this fits it the receiver), and for my bike rack. I'm a little nervous about hauling my 1500# boat out of the water.
 

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Those of you that installed a hitch that was not the TorkLift.. are you towing / attaching anything besides a bike carrier?

I am going to be getting a hitch, but most likely it will be the Tork because it is the only one with a real 2" hitch that can connect to a tow trailer. I need something that I can attach a 4x8 motorcycle folding trailer on. I know that towing a trailer with a 1-1/4" and using an adapter is a big nono, so just wondering.
 

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Those of you that installed a hitch that was not the TorkLift.. are you towing / attaching anything besides a bike carrier?

I am going to be getting a hitch, but most likely it will be the Tork because it is the only one with a real 2" hitch that can connect to a tow trailer. I need something that I can attach a 4x8 motorcycle folding trailer on. I know that towing a trailer with a 1-1/4" and using an adapter is a big nono, so just wondering.

I put on the 200# tongue-weight 1-1/4" Draw-tite hitch. Then I had the ends of my bike racks modified (for the smaller receiver) by a hitch installation shop via welding. I changed *them*, because I no longer have a vehicle with a 2" receiver. Why is an adapter a "no-no"?
 

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I put on the 200# tongue-weight 1-1/4" Draw-tite hitch. Then I had the ends of my bike racks modified (for the smaller receiver) by a hitch installation shop via welding. I changed *them*, because I no longer have a vehicle with a 2" receiver. Why is an adapter a "no-no"?
The hitches come with a 1 1/4", the tongue weight capacity is pulled from using the hitch as it is designed. Once you add on an extension adapter to go from 1 1/4" to 2" you are basically extending the ball further than it was designed. You are adding additional torque those hitches were not meant for and reducing the actual effective tongue weight capacity. Instead of relying on the hitch and mounts, you are relying on an adapter for the weight.

Will it be OK? I guess it really depends on what you are hauling. If you are just doing a bike rack, probably no problems, unless you are hauling more than 1 or 2 bikes. Will it be OK towing a small trailer? I dont know and I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig on that.

I need to haul about 1000lbs including the trailer. 1 motorcycle at about 400-450lbs and some gear along with the weight of the trailer. Maybe even 2 motorcycles, but that will still put me under or real close to 1000lbs.
 

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I've never had a problem using a 3500 lb rated 1-1/4" hitch and towing at the 2k lb limit of my car and trailer. Photo
Where you using a 1 1/4" to 2" adapter to 2" ball or where you using a straight Class 2 hitch with a square 1 1/4"?

Using a hitch expander has alwasy been considered a no no. Again, can it be done? Sure. Should it. No.


If you have a straight hitch, with a 1 1/4 square with a 2 in ball, then that is fine. I am speaking of adapters that convert the 1 1/4 square to 2"

I mean, I can get a 2" ball to a 1 1/4 adapter, but would rather have a straight 2" hitch. Main reason I am looking at the torklift vs the others.
 
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