[liresong]

.....the 2025 Tyre Reviews test........"In terms of grip, both the Chinese tyres performed extremely well, performing above average in both the braking tests. However, it is quite clear they have traded grip for tread life, as both the Chinese brands finished at the bottom of the wear test...Yes, the Chinese companies can now make a tyre that grips really well, but no, they can't yet seem to make one that also lasts."

Generally, I stay away from buying communist chinese(always small letters) tires, since they are using our money to build an offensive military. I did buy such Craigslist used americus 787 over-sized tires mounted on alloy wheels once, after forgetting to check the "place of manufacture".
They appear to be lasting as well as other "used & other places of manufacture" Craigslist tires I've bought. I placed them on the rear of one of our Elantras, which had American-built Goodyears on the front. In a fairly recent accident-avoiding full braking incident, ALL the tires worked very well together, even out-braking OE smaller tires, without any tendency to swerve, chatter or bounce.

 

[FinallyEV]

I'm using a set of Hankook iON evo AS SUV. The last 800 miles has averaged 5 mi/kwh now that weather has warmed up (but my commute is not at highway speeds).
And I have a compact spare that I picked up at a junk yard. Had to use it when I clipped a curb and blew out the side wall on my OEM self-sealing Michelin.

 

[rws.ca.us]

I'm using a set of Hankook iON evo AS SUV.

I'm getting a set of these installed this weekend - good reviews - cheaper than the OEM Michelins and Goodyear ElectricDrive 2.

 

[rws.ca.us]

After about a week, I have about 250 miles on these new Hankooks (iON evo AS SUV) - on my daily commute, I was seeing about 3.7 mi/kWh with the OEM Michelins - now about 3.5 mi/kWh with the Hankooks - about 5% loss in efficiency, if I'm doing the math right - not bad, and I expect the efficiency will improve a bit as they break in - smooth and quiet - we're pretty much done with our rainy season here (no snow), so I'll have to wait until next winter to see how they do in the rain.

 

[Packard V8]

No need to change and store tires twice a year in western NY with these all season tires.

Your car, your money, your decision. However, twenty years of driving in western NY winters, some of the worst snow and ice ever; for me driving, there's no such thing as an all season tire up there.

When you all have time, remind me to tell you about the round trip from Buffalo to Erie during a lake-effect blizzard which crashed power lines and shut down the entire region for a week.

jack vines

 

[liresong]

.....twenty years of driving in western NY winters, some of the worst snow and ice ever; for me driving, there's no such thing as an all season tire up there....... remind me to tell you about the round trip from Buffalo to Erie during a lake-effect blizzard which crashed power lines and shut down the entire region for a week.......

Here in western Washingon, I never had snow tires. Then I got some free snow tires. Put them on my car & a day later there was snow. Whoa! I discovered how nice real snow tires were! Those free tires got me through 4 winters & I was happy. But, I am retired, so don't need snow tires now. When I wake up in the morning AND there is snow on the ground, I roll over in bed & go back to sleep. 😴😴

 

[Louis Chevrolet]

Best to be retired and waking up in Southern California.

But truthfully the OEM tires were up to the task in the snow on Mount Palomar plowed roads. No doubt snow tires would have permitted further progress on unplowed roads with deeper snow. It's all about balancing lowest speed with sufficient momentum, and realizing your limitations before running out of room to turn around or a difficult spot to back out of. And always carry a tow rope!

 

[Aaron R.]

Best to be retired and waking up in Southern California.

But truthfully the OEM tires were up to the task in the snow on Mount Palomar plowed roads. No doubt snow tires would have permitted further progress on unplowed roads with deeper snow. It's all about balancing lowest speed with sufficient momentum, and realizing your limitations before running out of room to turn around or a difficult spot to back out of. And always carry a tow rope!

Your comments make me think that the need for snow tires is based not merely on climate, but on how fast/good of a job localities do in terms of plowing the roads.

Here in the City of Detroit, MI, there was a time [~25 years ago] when side streets were not plowed at all [except for school bus routes]. In some cases, residents would plow their own roads, but otherwise, you were driving down two ruts in the middle of the road [and hope that a car doesn't come down the street in the opposite direction--I've had to pull into a driveway to avoid getting stuck]. After a brutal winter, the mayor announced that from now on, all side streets would be plowed--if at least six inches of snow fell, side streets would get one pass down the middle! An improvement, but still not great!

I probably could have used snow tires back then but nowadays, they do a pretty good job. If I lived in a rural area, it might be different, but I just don't think I need snow tires given how well they're typically plowed.

 

[Cra2]

The original tires on my 2021 Bolt LT have split where the tread meets the sides after less than 18000 miles. These are the original Michelins. This car was a lemon, returned by the original owner, sold by GM to various dealers and wended its way unsold to So. Calif. where I bought it without manufacturer's warranty. Apparently it spent a lot of time on a lot in Arizona. I'm guessing that's what caused the splitting.

So I need all new tires. I have no spare tire and no space to put one. This is my first EV. Can you advise me?

1. Never drive in snow.

2. When it rains it pours, streets slippery from oil so need good grip in the rain.

3. What do I do in lieu of a spare tire? Bridgestone makes self healing tires that you supposedly can drive 50 miles on but they are about $260 each.

4. How important is energy saving? I have been averaging 4.4 on the Michelins. Which are neither self healing nor energy saving.

5. I drive about 6,000 miles a year.

5. I am a senior and will not be changing my own tires if AAA is around.

Very confused. Thanks for any help.

CRA2

 

[Msquared]

Most likely, the kind of damage you're describe came from driving on these tires with barely any air pressure in them. They will build up heat that way and fail in the area you described. I would stay away from run-flats, as they will ride poorly and not perform as well. I'm honestly not sure about the self-sealing tires. You can get a spare that will fit in the well under the hard cover "false floor."

I don't know how much of a variance there is in range among all the tires in the correct size. My hunch is maybe 10% at most, from the very worst to the very best. The important thing would be to keep inflation pressures on the side of the recommended range.

Believe it or not, for best performance in rain, you would really want a "summer" tire from Continental or Michelin. You want a very-high-performance tread compound that works well in lowish temps plus a tread pattern that evacuates water well. But those aren't really appropriate for best ride or long tread life. In your case, I'd look at the "Ultra-High-Performance All-Season" category, and we can specify tires that have an energy-saving focus. Of the three that pop up at Tire Rack for our size, I'd avoid the Advanta. It's a no-name brand and it's cheap for a reason. The Bridgestone Potenza Sport AS and Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 are both excellent performing tires in all conditions. The Michelin comes stock on base-model Corvettes. Of the two, I'd go with the Bridgestone because it's on a very good sale right now: $616 for a set of four. These tires will sacrifice a little treadwear life and are generally more expensive than "Grand-Touring All Season" tires, but they will have more grip and perform better overall, and you implied that this is important.

If we ignore energy saving focus, the Kumho Ecsta PA51 becomes an option. It's a great performer in dry and wet, only sacrificing snow traction (which you don't need). They are closing it out, so you can get a set of four for $428. You'd have to save an awful lot of energy to make up the price difference between these tires and the Bridgestones above! If it were me, I'd choose these.

 

[ehidle]

There's a 480AA version of the OE tire (which is 480BB) that has much better traction at the expense of giving up the self-seal. I haven't noticed any lower range from it, but I get MUCH better traction, especially when it's wet. Yes I have the risk of a flat, but I carry a plug kit with me just in case.

 

[jefro]

I'd never put those crummy traction OEM tires on the car again. I did take the $1400 payment and buy some ElectricDrive's. Suppose I'd have been happy with a number of great rated tires that are in the 700-800 A A range with LRR features.

 

[Cra2]

Most likely, the kind of damage you're describe came from driving on these tires with barely any air pressure in them. They will build up heat that way and fail in the area you described. I would stay away from run-flats, as they will ride poorly and not perform as well. I'm honestly not sure about the self-sealing tires. You can get a spare that will fit in the well under the hard cover "false floor."

I don't know how much of a variance there is in range among all the tires in the correct size. My hunch is maybe 10% at most, from the very worst to the very best. The important thing would be to keep inflation pressures on the side of the recommended range.

Believe it or not, for best performance in rain, you would really want a "summer" tire from Continental or Michelin. You want a very-high-performance tread compound that works well in lowish temps plus a tread pattern that evacuates water well. But those aren't really appropriate for best ride or long tread life. In your case, I'd look at the "Ultra-High-Performance All-Season" category, and we can specify tires that have an energy-saving focus. Of the three that pop up at Tire Rack for our size, I'd avoid the Advanta. It's a no-name brand and it's cheap for a reason. The Bridgestone Potenza Sport AS and Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 are both excellent performing tires in all conditions. The Michelin comes stock on base-model Corvettes. Of the two, I'd go with the Bridgestone because it's on a very good sale right now: $616 for a set of four. These tires will sacrifice a little treadwear life and are generally more expensive than "Grand-Touring All Season" tires, but they will have more grip and perform better overall, and you implied that this is important.

If we ignore energy saving focus, the Kumho Ecsta PA51 becomes an option. It's a great performer in dry and wet, only sacrificing snow traction (which you don't need). They are closing it out, so you can get a set of four for $428. You'd have to save an awful lot of energy to make up the price difference between these tires and the Bridgestones above! If it were me, I'd choose these.

Thank you, Msquared. I've been calling around for pricing on these near me. The tire shop near my old office where I took my cars for 20 years recommended the Kumho ES TA51A which is $549 out the door (excl taxes) as opposed to the Kumho PA51 which is $499 out the door. The $50 is minimal if the ES makes the tire more comfortable and better to drive. But all models from a manufacturer are not equal, so I'd appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Packard V8]

But all models from a manufacturer are not equal, so I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Thoughts:

Right foots are not equally heavy. Some here hate-hate-hate the OEM tires and rag on their poor traction. Other owners drive them 50,000 miles and never experience a slip.

Asses are not equally sensitive. Some here wouldn't notice a concrete tire. Other owners can feel the difference of a couple of pounds of unsprung weight or a couple of pounds of air pressure.

Wallets are not equally sensitive Some here will compromise every other feature for lowest cost. Others want the best for their performance envelope; a couple hundred dollars macht nicht.

jack vines

 

[Msquared]

ehidle brings up a good point about the non-self-sealing version of the OEM Michelin. It does indeed have a very different traction and speed rating. It's probably a much better tire, but it's pretty expensive. That's the one downside. Still, it's an option. I've autocrossed my Bolt EV on its stock (non-grippy self-sealing) Michelins. Those tires aren't as bad as people sometimes say, but they aren't super grippy. What they are is consistent and generally good handling, with linear feedback and a very gradual drop-off in grip once you exceed the max-grip slip angle. Totally safe and reliable, just not high-performance.

Thank you, Msquared. I've been calling around for pricing on these near me. The tire shop near my old office where I took my cars for 20 years recommended the Kumho ES TA51A which is $549 out the door (excl taxes) as opposed to the Kumho PA51 which is $499 out the door. The $50 is minimal if the ES makes the tire more comfortable and better to drive. But all models from a manufacturer are not equal, so I'd appreciate your thoughts.

The TA51A (I don't see "ES" in the name anywhere I looked) is a different category of tire. It is a touring all-season designed for a cushy and quiet ride and made to last a very long time. That all necessarily compromises its grip and responsiveness. It's going to feel more like the stock self-sealing Michelins, I think.

The PA51 is going to have much more grip in both wet and dry conditions. It will probably sharpen up the steering response a bit as well. This will be at the expense of some amount of noise and ride harshness, but note that Tire Rack thought it was the most refined ride of the four tires they tested in that UHP All-Season tire test. So think of it as a "European" ride quality: controlled, well damped, firm in steering effort, but not noisy or raucous. Every tire has compromise somewhere: the big compromise for the PA51 is in snow traction, which isn't a concern for you.

Either tire is a good value with solid quality and performance within its intended focus, so it's going to come down to what qualities are most important to you: soft/quiet ride and long tread life vs higher wet-and-dry grip and responsiveness with higher steering effort and control.

 

[boltage]

How important is energy saving? I have been averaging 4.4 on the Michelins. Which are neither self healing nor energy saving.

The OE tires on the Bolt were Michelin Energy Saver A/S with SelfSeal. So if the tires on the car are not, then they are not the OE tires.

Less efficient tires may cost 10% or so in efficiency and range. If the tires are significantly better in other aspects, that is a tradeoff for you to decide.

 

[jefro]

There is no standard for LRR. OEM's has eco claims that have nothing to do with mpge.

 

[SpicyBolt]

There is no standard for LRR. OEM's has eco claims that have nothing to do with mpge.

How is the noise on your Goodyear ElectricDrive tires? I expected my ElectricDrive2s to be quieter, but maybe I expected too much. I installed them on my Cruze Eco forged aluminum wheels and some say that forged wheels transmit more noise than cast wheels. They are about 5 lbs. lighter each than the OEM cast wheels.

 

[jefro]

The noise overall may be equal to the OEM's if one used a db meter. The sounds are quite different and different on various pavements. I can't say they are better. My V1 model has a very fragile foam liner. One could install that I'd think. Not sure they provide as high of LRR as I'd like. On road trips I get about 3.8 and kind of think the OEM's would get a bit more. Lucky, I got new battery and dropped 80% limit.

The traction is way way way way better. I'll continue any subsequent purchase of grip over LRR.

 

[SpicyBolt]

The noise overall may be equal to the OEM's if one used a db meter. The sounds are quite different and different on various pavements. I can't say they are better. My V1 model has a very fragile foam liner. One could install that I'd think. Not sure they provide as high of LRR as I'd like. On road trips I get about 3.8 and kind of think the OEM's would get a bit more. Lucky, I got new battery and dropped 80% limit.

The traction is way way way way better. I'll continue any subsequent purchase of grip over LRR.

Thanks. I totally agree about the traction. Overall I really like the ElectricDrive2s and won't buy the OEMs again. These are stout tires too, with two steel belts and a two ply sidewall. The tread width is also greater than many tires in this size. The ElectricDrive tires can handle the weight of an EV nicely. Also they have nice rim protection.

I don't know how my V2 is different from your V1, probably just little tweaks. I never saw what the foam liner looks like. I brought in my Cruze Eco wheels to Discount Tire and bought the tires from them. It wasn't quite time to take the snows off yet, I but wanted to take advantage of an expiring discount on the tires.