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You can try shielding. Find something that absorbs 77GHz emissions. Or 24GHz. I’m not sure which on the Bolt is using. It’s not rocket science.
Actually, it is.
 

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You can try shielding. Find something that absorbs 77GHz emissions. Or 24GHz. I’m not sure which on the Bolt is using. It’s not rocket science.
Actually, it is.
Thanks for the reply, but, not being a rocket scientist, I have no idea whether my aluminum duct tape absorbs either or neither of those frequencies.

Any clue on the function of the foam?
Any guesses as to optimum placement?
Is it OK to completely cover the back of the radar sending unit? Overheating issues?

I guess I'll just try applying some tape and see what happens...
 

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Thanks for the reply, but, not being a rocket scientist, I have no idea whether my aluminum duct tape absorbs either or neither of those frequencies.

Any clue on the function of the foam?
Any guesses as to optimum placement?
Is it OK to completely cover the back of the radar sending unit? Overheating issues?

I guess I'll just try applying some tape and see what happens...
Here' is how the butyl-backed metal shielding is supposed to be installed BELOW the unit. I'm not sure which side this is. Note the special shape.
33668


There is not foam as far as I know. You can use any butyl-backed sound deadener to stick. The butyl is so it sticks.

More shielding won't necessarily work any better, so I wouldn't go crazy. I don't think it will overheat, but no promises it won't.

Here's a picture of how the dealer mis-applied the foil after my rear end collision. So, below is how NOT to do it. You can also see a better view of how the radar unit is mounted. You must remove the harness connectors to make space. This is easier on a rack than jackstands and on your back.

33669
 

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Here' is how the butyl-backed metal shielding is supposed to be installed BELOW the unit. I'm not sure which side this is. Note the special shape.


There is not foam as far as I know. You can use any butyl-backed sound deadener to stick. The butyl is so it sticks.

More shielding won't necessarily work any better, so I wouldn't go crazy. I don't think it will overheat, but no promises it won't.

Here's a picture of how the dealer mis-applied the foil after my rear end collision. So, below is how NOT to do it. You can also see a better view of how the radar unit is mounted. You must remove the harness connectors to make space. This is easier on a rack than jackstands and on your back.
Thanks for tips.
No lift, so I guess I'll be scooting around my concrete garage floor soon.
 

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Reporting results:

I bought this small roll of 3M tape on Amazon: Foil Tape because of the brand I trust. Not being in the HVAC industry, I chose a small amount for this small job, spending $6 instead of $35.

I wiped clean the area below the radar unit with a rag and isopropyl alcohol. Starting by overlapping the OEM shield about 1/2 inch on the downward edge, I applied strips of the foil tape to the area between the existing shields and the bumper light housings. I didn't find it necessary to use a lift, nor to unplug any wiring connectors, although doing so would have made the job a bit easier.

Bottom line: it works!
No more false positives in my mirrors. No more mirror warnings staying on long after cars have passed.
Thanks for all the assistance here!
 
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