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Correct, they did not ask me about any other mileage after the initial one a few months ago, which is a good thing, since I'm up to 28k now.

Yes, the $7500 was the factory rebates.
 

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Correct, they did not ask me about any other mileage after the initial one a few months ago, which is a good thing, since I'm up to 28k now.

Yes, the $7500 was the factory rebates.
It is not fair for GM to take that whole rebate back when they buy back the car.
 

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Correct, they did not ask me about any other mileage after the initial one a few months ago, which is a good thing, since I'm up to 28k now.

Yes, the $7500 was the factory rebates.
I've put over 5k miles on my Bolt since I started the buyback process. They only cared about the initial odometer photo. Haven't asked anything about mileage since.
 

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I really appreciate all the information in this thread, but I'm confused a bit by these last few posts. I assumed that the base price would be off what I actually paid for the vehicle and not the MSRP.

I have a 2019 LT in California with upgrades that brought the MSRP to just over $40k after destination charges. In reality, I paid $33k after taxes with a loan. Am I to believe that, if successful, GM will offer me a repurchase amount somewhere in the ballpark of $40k + tax/doc/reg - usage fee (miles/120,000 * $40k) + interest charges on the loan?

Based on my mileage, that would put me at roughly $39k. That is more than what I originally paid. That can't be possible.

Also, is there any reason I should pay off the loan ahead of time? Is the process different for those with liens vs those without?
"Am I to believe that, if successful, GM will offer me a repurchase amount somewhere in the ballpark of $40k + tax/doc/reg - usage fee (miles/120,000 * $40k) + interest charges on the loan?"

Yes. I received a check for $41k and change from GM for my 2017 Premier with ~15k miles, that I bought new in January 2018. It included all of the interest I paid on the loan, too. I then turned around and bought a 2021 for $29k, out the door. Both transactions took 63 minutes total, in the same visit. Understand that the 2017 really only cost me about $33k, after federal and state incentives.

To put it another way, I took my 2017 into the dealer, and drove home in a new 2021, with an additional $12k in my pocket. That means I'm all-in for $21k, and drove my '17 for 15,000 miles, and now have a new, fully paid-for 2021 sitting in my driveway. (I'm in So. CA.)

If the latest EV incentives from the Fed pass this year, and they make it effective retroactively for 2021 purchases, I could conceivably get another $12.5k for good measure. That would make my all-in figure $8500. Insanity!

Doesn't make any sense, and I didn't believe it until the GM check cleared. I've learned that if a deal sounds too good to be true, it usually is. That's not the case here.
 

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So, the "base" price is what you paid for the vehicle, so deducting the $7500 makes some sense. Not as though 2021s are not DEEPLY discounted. After usage, etc., I get a check for $33,500 for my 2019. With the base dealer discount of $12K, plus loyalty ($1.5K), CA Clean Car Cash (1.5K), my new (base price $38K) is going to cost (before tax and license) $23K. Brand new 2021 LT. After tax/license I should net around $7K or so. Again, my deal is in CA, and different deals in different states.
 

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FYI, pleasure to be on this list. Two months ago I knew nothing. Thanks! Just got off a 4K Bolt list where people have blindly accepted the "fix." Told them about the repurchase possibility.
 

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Not sure why you’re quoting me. I think you may have misread my post.
I think he was just answering whether or not GM will cut a check for over $40k, but he isn’t in CA anyway so apples/oranges, MD LL yields a higher repurchase price than CA in certain instances.

Your question regarding GM paying back money some one never paid is a valid question for CA, because they don’t (they don’t in MD either). They also aren’t paying back money a previous owner didn’t pay also. Who cares what GM did in MD because CA has a different set of rules.

The ‘17 I had repurchased was originally sold in December ‘16 as a lease for the non-discounted MSRP as base price. Had GM used that for the base price, the 37404 miles on my car would have made the repurchase price in the $31-32k range by my calculation. But I am not the original purchaser, I took over adding mileage starting at 34220. And I paid $25,980 OTD.

So I was asking myself a similar question to yours: why would GM pay me $6k more than I originally paid?

As a second owner, they used my purchase contract and only counted the miles I placed on the car, charging me $608 usage. So I got back $25372.
I brushed over the actual CA lemon law, and there’s no mention of second ownership application for this law. So GM will “interpret” the gist of the law.
 

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Completed my buy back yesterday 5/28. I started the process on 3/24 by calling 833 382 4389. I am in CA, so GM didn't try to stall or deny my request. I didn't follow up much except responding to their requests for docs/pictures etc. Paid $34,295 base price plus TTL; after 4 years and 48k miles, got a check back of $24k. Tried to use the check to buy a new Bolt EV, but had unpleasant experience with Future Chevrolet of Sacramento, as documented in this post Avoid this dealership Future Chevrolet of Sacramento if...
 

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"Jasony" - I'm in Sac and today picked up my new 2021 Bolt LT for $23K, $26K with TTL. I have a couple of great contacts, both own Bolts and are enthusiassts. At Epic Chevy. They only have a couple 3-4 left. Email me at [email protected] and I'll put you in touch. Deals (I got $15.5K off) end this weekend. You might have to pay a couple grand or so after TTL but you'll be set with a 2021. Hit me up!
 

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"Jasony" - I'm in Sac and today picked up my new 2021 Bolt LT for $23K, $26K with TTL. I have a couple of great contacts, both own Bolts and are enthusiassts. At Epic Chevy. They only have a couple 3-4 left. Email me...
Maybe take your personal email address out of the public post, and send @jasony a PM instead?
 

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"Jasony" - I'm in Sac and today picked up my new 2021 Bolt LT for $23K, $26K with TTL. I have a couple of great contacts, both own Bolts and are enthusiassts. At Epic Chevy. They only have a couple 3-4 left. Email me at [email protected] and I'll put you in touch. Deals (I got $15.5K off) end this weekend. You might have to pay a couple grand or so after TTL but you'll be set with a 2021. Hit me up!
Thank you @boltsac I am looking to buy a Premier model hoping for a better seat than my previous LT.
 

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Not sure why you’re quoting me. I think you may have misread my post.
I directly quoted that portion of your post (that I put in quotes), and responded to it.

I am in California. It's in my profile, and I've stated it here many times.
 

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So about 2 more weeks? I think I need to take a drive to a semi-local (73 miles) BMW dealer in the next few days. They have a very nice 2018 CPO i3 Rex for about $26k, only 6k on the odometer, moon-roof, nav, etc. Looks brand new. Maybe I'll take my VW Golf along and see if they are willing to give me a decent trade in $$$'s.
Update: After the Friday update email I was expecting the buy-back team to contact me this Thursday or Friday, but I got a phone call from a guy early this morning, caught me in the shower so I didn't have the chance to talk to him. How does that always happen? Well, it was 10am his time, 8am my time.

Anyway, he sent 2 emails shortly after calling, the first wanting me to verify my contact info, all was correct. Second email requested a copy of my driver's license, title, and registration and pictures of the four sides of the car, and of the seats. My car is a '17 and is in excellent, almost new condition. It'll get to the receiving GM dealer in the same shape, barring any unfortunate accident. I'm still driving it, haven't had an accident in 30 years, and do not expect one. I'm leaning heavily towards purchasing a new 2021-22 Bolt EV, or maybe a 2022 EUV. Not sure there is enough difference between the two to agonize over. The other option would be to just keep this car. At 26k it still feels and looks like new.
 

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I was offered $30,200 for my 2019 premier with 26k miles. After taking into account usage fees and paying off the financed amount, they're writing a check just shy of $9k. The dealer I originally bought from listed my cash price at $37k, then took off another $6700 in incentives before we got into financing.

Does this mean that if I were to choose the swap option that they'd go with the $37k figure, subtract the usage fee, then use that value to choose a new vehicle? If that's the case, it sounds like it's practically the same result as a buyback.
 

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So I need a little help understanding the value propositions here, whether the MSRP swap or buyback is the way to go.

I was offered $30,200 for my 2019 premier with 26k miles. After taking into account usage fees and paying off the financed amount, they're writing a check just shy of $9k. The dealer I originally bought from listed my cash price at $37k, then took off another $6700 in incentives before we got into financing.

Does this mean that if I were to choose the swap option that they'd go with the $37k figure, subtract the usage fee, then use that value to choose a new vehicle? If that's the case, it sounds like it's practically the same result as a buyback.
My uncle just got the check for the buy-back of his 2018 Bolt Premium. He was originally going to do the MSRP swap but they didn't have the Traverse van but they had the terms ready. He says they work out to about the same. With the MSRP swap, GM covers the sales tax and license fee but only considers your purchase price in the swap. With the buy-back, GM doesn't pay for sales tax but pays for the interest you paid on your car loan. It doesn't sound like there's much difference in the usage fee, can someone confirm that?
 

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I directly quoted that portion of your post (that I put in quotes), and responded to it.

I am in California. It's in my profile, and I've stated it here many times.
No problem. But I do believe you misread my post in that case. Wouldn’t normally have bothered clarifying, but you do specifically say that the “too good to be true” situation I’m asking about is going to happen when it definitely is not. Just don’t want to mislead people.
 
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