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Has anyone bought and had installed the hitch accessory for the Bolt (received a Black Friday accesory sale email from Chevy today and saw these advertised)? Wondering about product and installation quality.
 

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Has anyone bought and had installed the hitch accessory for the Bolt (received a Black Friday accesory sale email from Chevy today and saw these advertised)? Wondering about product and installation quality.
The GM OEM hitch is the Curt hitch. I'd pass (just search this forum). I have a Draw-tite hitch, which is superior IMO to the Curt one.
 

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Could be OP has a coupon like I do. I'm still trying to find $500 of stuff to buy. I'm only up to $300 and can't seem to figure out what else I could use.
 

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You don't want the Curt because it attaches to the bottom of the trunk area (non structural) and a cantilevered bike rack will apply too much stress. Get the Draw-tite at etrailer with free shipping. Installation was a piece of cake, although when I return the lease in 2 years I hope the dealer won't give me a hard time for having to cut away part of the aft skirt to accommodate the receiver.

I've used it multiple times with a Kuat platform hitch with 2 bikes. Works great, and there's no noticeable decline in mileage.
-MD
 

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Purchased & installed Draw-Tire hitch at U-Haul

U-Haul sold me Draw-Tite Sportframe Class 1 hitch, 1 1/4', Max Tongue Weight 200 lbs, Max Tow weight 2000 lbs for $114.95, installed it for $48.00, and for additional $5 Lifetime unlimited warranty. The Curt hitch from the dealer was $130.00 when I priced it, and only had Max Tongue weight 100 lbs, Max Tow weight 1000 lbs, and I do not know what installation would be. I have ebike (Kalkoff) that, with rack, probably hits the 100 lb mark, so I went to U-Haul. I was impressed with U-Haul website information, made appt with local guys, and all done in 45 minutes or so while I had donuts and coffee. Donuts and coffee cost more than the warranty.
 

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Draw-Tite Sportframe hitch from U-Haul

Also, it sits flush under the rear bumper, actually slightly touching it, so no need to cut bumper, and much tighter to bumper bottom than photos of the Curt hitch that I have seen.
 

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Hi Richard. Do you have any pics of the hitch? Every post I have seen so far says you have to cut out a small piece out of the bottom of the bumper. It sounds like there was no cutting with the uHaul unit.

Thank you!
Fern
 

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U-Haul sold me Draw-Tite Sportframe Class 1 hitch, 1 1/4', Max Tongue Weight 200 lbs, Max Tow weight 2000 lbs for $114.95, installed it for $48.00, and for additional $5 Lifetime unlimited warranty.
Amazon offers the Sportframe class 1 hitch, but under a whole bunch of different product code numbers - 24872; 24914, etc. Do you know what the product code is on the hitch you bought from U-Haul?

......upon further investigation, the Bolt EV-specific Draw-Tite hitch code number is 24956. I just ordered one for a bit under $108 which included delivery (and no sales tax) from etrailer.com.
 

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Amazon offers the Sportframe class 1 hitch, but under a whole bunch of different product code numbers - 24872; 24914, etc. Do you know what the product code is on the hitch you bought from U-Haul?

......upon further investigation, the Bolt EV-specific Draw-Tite hitch code number is 24956. I just ordered one for a bit under $108 which included delivery (and no sales tax) from etrailer.com.
I went to the uHaul site and this is what I saw:

Sportframe 1 1/4 inch Rec (Powder Coat)

Class 1 hitch
Max weight: 2,000 lbs.
MPN: 24956
Part number: CQT24956
Hitch Installation Guide - Model CQT24956
Hitch image shown is for display purposes only and may not reflect the actual hitch for this vehicle.
Watch the hitch installation video
$114.95
$5 unlimited lifetime warranty
 

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A few weeks ago I had U-haul install a 1.25-inch hitch receiver on our 2017 Chevy Bolt EV to mount a bike rack.

We sold our Chevy Volt, scaling down to a one-car, and, hence, a one EV family. In doing so, I needed another bike rack.

The previous rack I'd used on the Volt, Thule's Raceway Pro, isn't advised for the Bolt. Sure, you can mount it on the back of the Bolt, but don't try to use the windshield wiper! Since the car is leased, I didn't want to inadvertently damage the wiper.

This led to a search of the message boards and what others found as the best combination of hitch and rack. Message boards are powerful tools. Many posters now include photos and even some videos. In the end though, you have to find what works for you where you live.

U-haul installed the Cequent hitch # 24956 for $191.19, including California sales tax. The hitch requires cutting a small portion of the fascia, but the cut is not visible when standing behind the car.

I installed a Thule Vertex 2 bike rack myself once I got the vehicle home. The Vertex has a lever activated arm that you can raise to carry two bikes and then lower when it's no longer needed. The Vertex also has a lever to lower the rack toward the ground so you can open the lift gate. I wasn't sure how well this was going to work, but so far it's been trouble free. (I haven't tripped over it and it's easy to lift and lower.)

The display model bike rack that I bought from U-haul didn't come with the washers between the mounting bolt and the hitch receiver. I mounted the rack anyway and took a test drive. The rack bounced around in the receiver more than I was comfortable with.

I went back to the message boards and sure enough there was a discussion of play between the "stinger" of the Thule bike rack and the receiver. Thule and others said that if you use the washers that came with the rack there shouldn't be any play.

Fortunately, I found a thick washer suitable for the bike rack bolt. The simple addition of the washer allowed me to fully snug up the stinger inside the receiver. I haven't had any movement since.

I've been using the rack for the past two weeks to carry my bike for daily rides and haven't had any problems with the rack or using the Bolt EV with the rack in place.


Paul
 

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Here are some pics of my bike rack collection. Everything is mounted on a Drawtite hitch. I have a Curt hitch too but it only have half the weight limit, so now it sits in the garage.

Saris Thelma 3:
Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

Thule T2 (solid but heavy):
Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

Highland Sportwing:
Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr

Saris Freedom Superclamp 2:
Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr
Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr
 

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Here are some pics of my bike rack collection. Everything is mounted on a Drawtite hitch. I have a Curt hitch too but it only have half the weight limit, so now it sits in the garage.
Great photos, thanks! Has one risen to the top in terms of preference or do you use them all for specific reasons? We've used a Saris Bones for years on our previous car but looking at possibly going the hitch route on the Bolt.
 

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Great photos, thanks! Has one risen to the top in terms of preference or do you use them all for specific reasons? We've used a Saris Bones for years on our previous car but looking at possibly going the hitch route on the Bolt.

The Thule for long distance trips because it's so solid.


The Saris Thelma 3 for when I need to carry 3 bikes.


The Saris SuperClamp 2 for when I don't want to mess with straps, etc. Bikes go on and off this rack in seconds. I hurt my back a few weeks ago. Despite being only 32 lbs, the SuperClamp is long and bulky, even when folded so I must have twisted the wrong way while carrying it through my mess of a garage.


Recently, I've been relying on my heavily modified Reese / Highland Sportwing. It sports the following mods:



1) replaced all rubber straps with ball bungies from Amazon;

2) replaced the foam pieces on the wheel hooks with braided / reinforced silicone hoses;

3) replaced the main "V" metal tubing foam with a straight 1-5/8" ID radiator hose that is about twice as long as the original foam pieces;

4) instead of using the supplied velcro straps, I used more ball bungies to tie the fork and chainstay to the "V" frame;

5) I'm using a Saris hitch rack lock with the receiver/stinger insert with the nut - this allows me to tighten the hitch up to the receiver to minimize sway;


6) and finally the $25 accessory riser shank that lifts the rack up 4".

Sure I have to worry about pedal position, and avoid the saddle to handlebar contact with 2 bikes, but the Sportwing is under 20 lbs, and when I remove the "V" arms, the hitch stinger part is about 12 lbs. Plus, I set up an internal rack behind the backseat to mount it so that the rack is stored in the car when not in use.


Untitled by tk_1971, on Flickr
 
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