Bolt Illuminated Charge Port Housing Package Installation, Bolt Illuminated Charge Port Kit: 84359233
Just finished my install this evening. A previous person had noted a person should be a technician or have that type of experience. I could not agree more. This is NOT a project for those not skilled in hands on technical work. It is literally 10x more difficult than installing the same accessory on VOLT Gen 2.
The quality of the installation components and the part itself are quite good. I see why it is expensive. Speaking of which, my dealer matched GM Parts Direct price (with shipping, not free, about another $20). I was very impressed by the drill template which is a formed plastic part that slides into the existing opening. It has tiny pilot holes already drilled for centering the drill bit (like a center punched hole). The drill template out of the package looks like a protective cover for the illuminated part. The illuminated part has three plastic posts that snap into the holes you drill in the existing socket plate (so they really have to be in the right locations, but the template takes care of that), plus a couple of sections of two sided adhesive tape.
While the instructions are posted here elsewhere, and online at some of the parts sites, note that there are several entries which say, do this step according to another set of GM instructions. Most are relatively easy to figure out, such as removing the 12V battery (which, as it turn out, has a fold down handle, very cool). However, removing the 12V battery tray is not a trivial exercise without the instructions. There are literally five different harnesses attachment points by plastic clips, some below the top edge. There is also a current transformer over the 12V battery ground cable that has an odd clip of its own located behind and low on the back of the tray. Then, you have to unclip and pull out the ECM plate. I was really close to quitting and just going to the dealer as I struggled to disconnect, untangle, and remove the battery tray. But, with some patience, going slow each time something was still holding it in, and a LOT of time, all went well.
The connector between the body (coming from the direction of the firewall) towards the front of the car has to be disassembled, the protective plastic plugs removed, and then the new wires gently pushed in. My factory pins had the crimp a little wide on one of them and needed a bit of bending before it slid in fine. The drawing showing the openings to use is a view from the back of the connector, once open and exposed.
Someone mentioned it should be possible to snake the wire without jacking the car, removing the front wheel, and removing the back of the wheel well liner. However, one reason to remove the liner is that they have you move a cable out of the way before drilling some holes in the existing mount. I would suggest not skipping that step. Actually, jacking the car, putting in a jack stand, and removing half the liner is about the easiest part of the job, and takes less time and effort than I expected.
I was too tired to give it a thorough test, but what I saw at first look, was on opening the charge door the light comes on, or on pushing the button on the handle to disengage. It was not blinking at 5 blinks, which might mean "technically" I need the BCM flash (2018, Premier). However, I think I like it better not flashing, as long as it comes on when I need it.
Yes, you can do the $10 dog collar thing. It worked well for me, but two minor issues. I got one that blinks, so you have to push the button twice more after turn on to get a steady light. Also, yes there is a lot of plastic in the combo CCS plugs, but the more I thought about, I am less comfortable reaching in there to turn the light off, once started on DC fast charge. (Do check this out from another thread though - https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/162-chevy-bolt-ev-likes-dislikes/22594-charge-port-black-hole-5.html chargerlight.com )
Summary: I like the way it looks and the quality seems good. I would do it again. DO NOT attempt this project yourself if you have limited technician or hands on technical experience.
Just finished my install this evening. A previous person had noted a person should be a technician or have that type of experience. I could not agree more. This is NOT a project for those not skilled in hands on technical work. It is literally 10x more difficult than installing the same accessory on VOLT Gen 2.
The quality of the installation components and the part itself are quite good. I see why it is expensive. Speaking of which, my dealer matched GM Parts Direct price (with shipping, not free, about another $20). I was very impressed by the drill template which is a formed plastic part that slides into the existing opening. It has tiny pilot holes already drilled for centering the drill bit (like a center punched hole). The drill template out of the package looks like a protective cover for the illuminated part. The illuminated part has three plastic posts that snap into the holes you drill in the existing socket plate (so they really have to be in the right locations, but the template takes care of that), plus a couple of sections of two sided adhesive tape.
While the instructions are posted here elsewhere, and online at some of the parts sites, note that there are several entries which say, do this step according to another set of GM instructions. Most are relatively easy to figure out, such as removing the 12V battery (which, as it turn out, has a fold down handle, very cool). However, removing the 12V battery tray is not a trivial exercise without the instructions. There are literally five different harnesses attachment points by plastic clips, some below the top edge. There is also a current transformer over the 12V battery ground cable that has an odd clip of its own located behind and low on the back of the tray. Then, you have to unclip and pull out the ECM plate. I was really close to quitting and just going to the dealer as I struggled to disconnect, untangle, and remove the battery tray. But, with some patience, going slow each time something was still holding it in, and a LOT of time, all went well.
The connector between the body (coming from the direction of the firewall) towards the front of the car has to be disassembled, the protective plastic plugs removed, and then the new wires gently pushed in. My factory pins had the crimp a little wide on one of them and needed a bit of bending before it slid in fine. The drawing showing the openings to use is a view from the back of the connector, once open and exposed.
Someone mentioned it should be possible to snake the wire without jacking the car, removing the front wheel, and removing the back of the wheel well liner. However, one reason to remove the liner is that they have you move a cable out of the way before drilling some holes in the existing mount. I would suggest not skipping that step. Actually, jacking the car, putting in a jack stand, and removing half the liner is about the easiest part of the job, and takes less time and effort than I expected.
I was too tired to give it a thorough test, but what I saw at first look, was on opening the charge door the light comes on, or on pushing the button on the handle to disengage. It was not blinking at 5 blinks, which might mean "technically" I need the BCM flash (2018, Premier). However, I think I like it better not flashing, as long as it comes on when I need it.
Yes, you can do the $10 dog collar thing. It worked well for me, but two minor issues. I got one that blinks, so you have to push the button twice more after turn on to get a steady light. Also, yes there is a lot of plastic in the combo CCS plugs, but the more I thought about, I am less comfortable reaching in there to turn the light off, once started on DC fast charge. (Do check this out from another thread though - https://www.chevybolt.org/forum/162-chevy-bolt-ev-likes-dislikes/22594-charge-port-black-hole-5.html chargerlight.com )
Summary: I like the way it looks and the quality seems good. I would do it again. DO NOT attempt this project yourself if you have limited technician or hands on technical experience.
