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Woke up this morning to see that my five-week old Bolt had been hit while I was parked on the street. The damage looks pretty bad but I can’t be sure. It’s sitting in a collision shop now and I’m waiting on the quote. Any thoughts on whether this is as bad as I think it is? Tips on dealing with insurance and a brand-new car?
 

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Something is telling me this is not a mere dent, and may be beyond the body shop's competence. Was it a hit-and-run, or there info on "the other" car? If the former, I think the police should be informed.
 

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Make sure the body shop is trained on repair of EV's. The battery may have been damaged and if someone who has not been specifically trained on dealing with this situation starts digging into it can be severely hurt or killed. Secondly, there are components unique to EV's that need to be inspected that your typical ICE car doesn't have. That damage is not just a nip and tuck repair. My guess is that it will be totaled.
 

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Something is telling me this is not a mere dent, and may be beyond the body shop's competence. Was it a hit-and-run, or there info on "the other" car? If the former, I think the police should be informed.
Yeah, that's no love-tap. IANAL but if it was legally parked, I can't see how you'd be at fault, and I'd be surprised if that was less than $4,000 of repairs depending on what got mucked up internally, whether there was damage to the battery, frame, transmission, etc. I would reach out to my insurance and provide them the info left in the note, if only to be sure that I'm within the reporting window for my insurance in case the info left was bogus. If the body shop works with the insurance company, I would expect them to refer it to a dealer for proper repair. If they don't, I would be hesitant to have any work done before letting e.g. the dealer at the internal systems/structure.
 

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My sincere condolences. My estimate is that it will be cheaper to replace than repair. This is so disappointing for you, I am sure. I hope the other motorist has full insurance coverage. I wonder if, in these circumstances, you jump to the head of the list for a replacement. Pick a secondary color, but hold to the features you originally chose. Let us know when you are back on your wheels.
 

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Good god, your poor Bolt! Looks like it got nailed HARD as it ended up half on the sidewalk and the RF wheel almost came off!

Assuming it's not totaled, I would demand (from the other party's insurance) that it only be repaired at a certified Chevy dealer. If the other party's insurance is picking up the tab, make them pay dealer rates. Even if you had to use your own insurance, I'd still insist on it getting repaired at a Chevy dealer only.
 

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You didn't mention if was a lease or purchase,

If a purchase, don't forget to talk about DV (Diminished Value) if they do decide to repair it. It will be worth considerably less after being repaired from that kind of an impact. My guess it will be totaled.
 

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From looking at the cars I watch for with R or reconstructed titles daily that are for sale, the car looks like it might be a total loss.

It doesn't take that much today for the repairs to be worth more than the car.

I hope you have full replacement on your insurance, I always get it when I buy a new one.

I keep it on the car for the first year.
 

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If the Bolt is totaled, and if it's leased you probably have gap insurance. However it's my understanding that if one made a down payment to lower the monthly lease payment by reducing the capitalized cost. or did a one-pay at the inception of the lease - that up-front money goes up in smoke.
 

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Say what??
Leases can be structured so that you make an initial lump payment which reduces the per-month cost. If the vehicle is totaled, then you've lost that lump payment - you're not going to get it back. If you had chosen a lease with no money down and larger monthly payments, you wouldn't be obligated to pay those future payments if the vehicle was totaled, so you'd end up having spent less money overall over the period that you were able to use the car.
 

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Leases can be structured so that you make an initial lump payment which reduces the per-month cost. If the vehicle is totaled, then you've lost that lump payment - you're not going to get it back. If you had chosen a lease with no money down and larger monthly payments, you wouldn't be obligated to pay those future payments if the vehicle was totaled, so you'd end up having spent less money overall over the period that you were able to use the car.
I understand. Just hard to believe.
 

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Woke up this morning to see that my five-week old Bolt had been hit while I was parked on the street. The damage looks pretty bad but I can’t be sure. It’s sitting in a collision shop now and I’m waiting on the quote. Any thoughts on whether this is as bad as I think it is? Tips on dealing with insurance and a brand-new car?
I am sorry that this happened to your car. I also don't like that the lateral impact force was hard enough for the vehicle to mount a curb. Could not go down - could only go up with large force - had to go up in the air, then still pushed into sidewalk area.

I am not an automotive expert, but have worked on lots of them, and really really don't like / am concerned about the structural mechanical steering,suspension / frame / uni-body looking at the passengers side wheel.

I hope that the way your policy is set-up is for total loss, and full replacement.

I would not accept that even a totally competent auto body shop would be able to get this to pre-loss condition. Pre-loss appearance - sure. Not pre-loss condition.

Best of thoughts and luck..., and then a little more of the best.
 

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:crying:

It should be interesting. I see the passenger cast aluminum arm/hub broke as it was pushed laterally against the curb. but the drivers side impact does not look bad enough except if that energy was through the drivers tire & through the drivetrain. I guess it really depends on how much impat energy it take to break that casy aluminum arm. If not so much then the damage will not be so bad, if a lot then most likely damage to the front frame and drivetrain/transmission etc.

When I was underneath my bolt on a lift inspecting I thought; my are those nice aluminum arms tiny / thin.
 

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"That will buff right out!"
Sorry, someone has to say that on every "how bad is it" thread.

Damage looks extensive, my bet is they total it, but the salvage value will be quite high. Not many shops want to take a chance rebuilding a unknown tech like EV, so it may just get parted out eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, everyone, for your thoughts. The estimate from the body shop is ... wait for it ... $10k. Pretty disappointed, to say the least. I purchased it new and have new car replacement coverage. I echo what a lot of you have mentioned here, that it hard to believe more serious structural/mechanical damage wasn’t done. I’m very wary of future issues on such a new vehicle. I’m planning to get a second and third opinion on the repair estimate. Any thoughts on things I should be discussing withthem to identify more damage? Sho the
 
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