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Hi All,


I've been reading the forum for awhile now awaiting delivery of Bolt - and we got it yesterday, earlier than anticipated.


Bolt guide says a) do not charge unless on dedicated circuit and b) do not use extension cord. Can anyone comment on this?




Online advice indicates it seems to be ok to use shared circuit if you drop to 8 amps. We need to upgrade our garage plug to accommodate charging (needs to be grounded) but it is also on a shared circuite. We are thinking of installing a GFCI plug (like in a bathroom) in our carport to use on a circuit shared with a couple of other things in the house (all which would be un-used at night). What do you think?


In the meantime, we plugged into the house via an extension cord and the box on the L1 cord said it was fine (green light, no !) So, would that work despite what the manual says? I know it would be slow but we are not in any crisis for charging, take transit to work/work at home, just don't want to blow anything up!


We will probably upgrade to L2 eventually but would like to get started with what we have if possible.


Thanks,
Pat
 

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Depends on the gauge and the length of the run. V=IR, 12 gauge is 1.6 Ohm/1k ft, 14 is 2.5Ohm/1k ft, a 50 ft 12 gauge extension would drop about half a volt, if 14 gauge about twice that
Get a 20 amp rated extension cord. Only as long as you need. Looks are deceiving. Lots of cords use thick plastic with little copper.
 

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I believe those statements are disclaimers to avoid lawsuits from doing something dumb. If you know the quality of your extension cord or what other (small) loads are on the circuit, you should be ok.

We have a small (dorm) fridge, a Ryobi 18V battery charger, and our rechargeable vacuum plugged into the same circuit as a 12A Volt charger and it works fine.
 

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I believe those statements are disclaimers to avoid lawsuits from doing something dumb. If you know the quality of your extension cord or what other (small) loads are on the circuit, you should be ok.

We have a small (dorm) fridge, a Ryobi 18V battery charger, and our rechargeable vacuum plugged into the same circuit as a 12A Volt charger and it works fine.
It does help if your other loads are not continuous like the ones you listed. But if you're doing that on a 15 amp circuit, you might find your breaker might fail an early death. There's also a chance you're on a 20 amp circuit where those extra loads don't matter much at all.
 

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You will be fine with a high quality extension cord...

Recommend getting at least a 12 amp 240 volt circuit if possible and an adapter to use the included charger at 240 volts at 12 amps - ideally you can consider a good quality L2 charger as it will charge the car sooooo much faster than the L1 charger at 8 amps.
 

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You will be fine with a high quality extension cord...

Recommend getting at least a 12 amp 240 volt circuit if possible and an adapter to use the included charger at 240 volts at 12 amps - ideally you can consider a good quality L2 charger as it will charge the car sooooo much faster than the L1 charger at 8 amps.
b....b.... but if he puts in 240 volts surely he should go the whole hog and put in a 40 amp circuit? The only caveat is whether or not he needs a new panel to cope with a 32 amp load, which I doubt?
 

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I agree if you're putting in a 240 volt circuit get the biggest circuit you can - but if you can't at least get a 240 volt 12 amp circuit (15 amp breaker) and use the charger that came with the car.
 

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Bolt guide says a) do not charge unless on dedicated circuit and
Standard household sockets are installed on 15A circuits. That means that (in theory), the Bolt's 12A draw still leaves you a bit of room to add other loads before endangering the wiring and the breaker trips.

But the 15A rating is only intended for intermittent loads. For something like the Bolt which draws a considerable amount of current over many hours, the standard practice is to "derate" the circuit by 20% - and that means 12A. So in theory, you shouldn't be using anything else on the same circuit while you're charging the Bolt.

In practice, you can probably get away with very light loads (a cell phone charger, for example), especially if they're short-lived. But I wouldn't use a hair dryer, coffee maker or microwave on that circuit as those would probably trip the breaker pretty quickly. And heaven forbid if the breaker doesn't trip because if the wiring overheats it could be very dangerous.

Overall it would be better to do as the manual says and use a circuit that isn't shared with any other loads, or alternatively to restrict your charging current to 8A.
 

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It is all in the details...

For the first six months of my Bolt EV, I plugged the 120v EVSE directly into the outlet above the car which shared the same circuit as:

The electric garage door opener and light;

the manual garage light;

a second garage door opener and light (4 car garage);

the 2nd manual light;

the laundry room washer and dryer and light.

All sharing a 30 amp fuse.

I would consistently charge overnight at 12 amps and NEVER blew that fuse.

Now admittedly not the majority of the laundry took place during charging, but a lot did.

Finally after 6 months of frustration of charging at 120v 12 amps, I hired an electrician to run a 100' 6 gauge outdoor wire from the meter to the unattached garage and install a 240v at 30 amps L6-21 outlet and install my Clipper Creek LCS-25p from my old Volt days. I am now a very happy camper!:)
 

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Finally after 6 months of frustration of charging at 120v 12 amps, I hired an electrician to run a 100' 6 gauge outdoor wire from the meter to the unattached garage and install a 240v at 30 amps L6-21 outlet and install my Clipper Creek LCS-25p from my old Volt days.
That's something I'm pondering too. Was the wire trenched so it runs underground? How expensive was it to install?
 

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That's something I'm pondering too. Was the wire trenched so it runs underground? How expensive was it to install?
No, the underground route with conduit was estimated at $1,400 in my Volt days, so I passed on that design then for obvious reasons.

The semi-permanent extension cord is just mounted against the side of my building just below the gutter and then runs across to the separate garage in an available opening.

I paid $550 for this solution and I will abandon this solution when I finally upgrade the electrical to the whole building and/or install solar and trench in new conduit to the garage for two 50 amp circuits in addition to its other electrical needs.

I keep forgetting to see if this will qualify for the LADWP rebate.
 

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No, the underground route with conduit was estimated at $1,400 in my Volt days, so I passed on that design then for obvious reasons.
OK - thanks for the info. That's kind of in the ballpark of what was suggested for mine too.

If I decide to go for it then at least I should be able to get hardwired ethernet out to the garage as well....
 
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