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I've given 2 good reasons why there is a need. One is that, if the OpenEVSE is only available as a 240V-connected device, it makes no sense for it to have a service level menu. It should simply be advertised as an L2 EVSE. The other is that if it has always been delivering 240V to the car when I was expecting and assuming 120V, I would have been seeing my POCO meter spinning forwards rather than being motionless due to being balanced by my solar array output.
The only reason to ask is if it's possible. The documentation says that it is not possible.

It's trivial to end all debate. Simply take the cover off your OpenEVSE, plug it into the EV, then measure the voltage across the contacts on the contactor. Presuming that the input is 240V, the output will have to be 240V.

Sure we can talk about differential software that disables that menu when plugged into 240V. Or labeling that menu something else making it clear that it sets the maximum current based on the input voltage. But I severely doubt, like 100% doubt, that when set to L1 and plugged into a 240V input source that it delivers 120V to the car because it's incapable of doing so.

ga2500ev
 

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Plug it in to a 120V socket and it will deliver 120V...

I don't see the problem.

Keith
The problem is the available power. Virtually every 120V circuit is 15A, which limits the continuous current output to 12A. The objective is to test the Bolt accepting more that 12A on a 120V input. So, there's have to be a special 120V socket, like a TT-30 to deliver more than 15A of current on a 120V line.

There is a way to do it with a 14-50, since it has a neutral line. It would require a funky adapter consisting of a 14-50 plug, a 14-50 receptacle, and pigtail (6 gauge) between them. The X line (hot 1, black) would wire straight through, as would the G (ground,green) line. Then take the neutral (N, white) from the plug and wire it to Y, which is normally the Hot 2 line. Leave the Hot 2 on the plug, and the N on the receptacle unwired. The Hot 1 and Neutral will serve as a 120V circuit at up to 50 amps. The EVSE won't see the missing neutral on the adapter receptacle because it isn't wired in the unit internally.

A TT-30 to 120V wired 14-30/50 could be done similarly. Of course this only makes sense if the bolt will in fact accept 120V at above a 12A rate, which is the question we're trying to find the answer for here.

ga2500ev
 

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I have a 5-20R for the water softener in the garage. That will work for 16A.
 
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I have a 5-20R for the water softener in the garage. That will work for 16A.
That is why I said virtually as opposed to absolutely. Very few homes have 20 amp receptacles even if they are on a 20 amp circuit.

You wouldn't happen to have an EVSE that delivers 16A @ 120V would you?

ga2500ev
 

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That is why I said virtually as opposed to absolutely. Very few homes have 20 amp receptacles even if they are on a 20 amp circuit.

You wouldn't happen to have an EVSE that delivers 16A @ 120V would you?

ga2500ev
Unfortunately, no. I did not even know 120V 16 EVSE existed.
 

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That is why I said virtually as opposed to absolutely. Very few homes have 20 amp receptacles even if they are on a 20 amp circuit.

You wouldn't happen to have an EVSE that delivers 16A @ 120V would you?

ga2500ev
I don't know about "very few homes". This is a very small sample set, but most of the family that I tend to visit / charge overnight have 5-20 outlets on the outside of their homes. Even though that's only a 33% boost, it adds up over a weekend visit.
 

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I've heard back from OpenEVSE and they confirm what y'all have been telling me. The OpenEVSE has been lying about Level 1 the entire time. They say it has an L1 menu because many users use adapters to connect to various 120v plug types. So now my problem is to figure out how I could have been charging the Bolt at a rate twice my solar output rate without causing my POCO meter to spin forward.
 

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I've just observed my POCO meter running forward when supposedly balanced by my solar output, so now I'm fully convinced that my OpenEVSE has always been running at L2. I really appreciate the education you guys have given me!
 

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I have 2 SMA Sunny Boy inverters with the Secure Power Supply that NewsCoulomb mentioned, but I have never had occasion to use either to charge the Bolt.
This morning the power went out so I gave it a try both on the Bolt and on the refrigerator. It wasn't a smooth operation. They started and stopped several times before running continuously. But overall, I'm pleased.
 

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We have the same inverter, and have used it a few times with the refrigerator only. The back outs were scheduled and lasted no more than a day. There needs be enough sun light to cover the load, or it will shut down. It is our poor man's power wall. Together with 2 EVs and a 3kw 12v inverter, we can last for a few days in sunny southern California.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Does there exist an adapter that I could plug into my NEMA 14-50R to reduce its voltage to Level 1? The idea being that I could more closely match the charging rate to my meager solar output.
 

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Does there exist an adapter that I could plug into my NEMA 14-50R to reduce its voltage to Level 1? The idea being that I could more closely match the charging rate to my meager solar output.
Go line-to-neutral instead of line-to-line.
 

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Does there exist an adapter that I could plug into my NEMA 14-50R to reduce its voltage to Level 1?
Check out the RV world for those adapters.
 

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but I don't think you understood my question.
I guess I don't understand. Originally you asked what can be plugged into a 14-50R. R stands for receptacle. So I was going on that. Is it because your EVSE has the 14-50P? Is it 120V capable?
 

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Is it because your EVSE has the 14-50P? Is it 120V capable?
This is a very long thread, but if you look back over my posts you will see that I have an OpenEVSE that is 120V capable. So the adapter you linked to is almost perfect, thanks! The cord is not really necessary.
 
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