Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
In the middle of a road trip (from LA to Phoenix), my charging port broke...in Blythe California. A small plastic piece fell out, and when I plugged the DCFC, I heard a whirring sound coming from the port. It looked like there was a lever near the top of the port that was trying to move down, possibly to somehow "engage" the charging cable. It would make this whirring sound 4-5 times, then I'd get the "Unable to charge" message. I stuck a pencil in there, and manually pulled the lever down while the charger cable was in the port, and everything seemed to work fine. We made it to Phoenix and the car is now at the dealer. But, has this ever happened to anyone? Can anyone explain to me what broke and if this is something common? I have had this car for 2 years, and a Volt for the previous 3.5, and I have never heard of it before!
 

·
Registered
2021 LT Nightshade Grey
Joined
·
223 Posts
Did you take a photo? The DCFC connectors latch on mechanically with some sort of mechanism. Could have been a defective connector maybe?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I didn't take a photo, but here is a "stock" photo. I actually do not know where the piece the broke off came from, through. I am almost positive that it was part of the locking mechanism.
33469
 

·
Registered
2017 Bolt EV LT purchased used, previous vehicle was a 2015 Chevy eSpark
Joined
·
211 Posts
Perhaps it didn't come off of or out of your port and instead came off the CCS connector. CCS1 has a failure point on the latch located above the iec62196 plug (the circular bit). You can see here this charge unit is missing the tab
33507
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Dealer in Arizona had no idea what the issue is. It only happens with DCFC, and the service advisor literally had no idea what DCFC was. He insisted that they tested on a DCFC, but there is not a DCFC station at that dealer. And it is not fixed. I drove it back to California, so hopefully I will get a more knowledgeable advisor. I video'd it so I can show the advisor. First video is when I get the "Unable to Charge" message. Second video is my jerry-rigging
Broken Charger Port
My Fix
 

·
Registered
2021 LT Nightshade Grey
Joined
·
223 Posts
Dealer in Arizona had no idea what the issue is. It only happens with DCFC, and the service advisor literally had no idea what DCFC was. He insisted that they tested on a DCFC, but there is not a DCFC station at that dealer. And it is not fixed. I drove it back to California, so hopefully I will get a more knowledgeable advisor. I video'd it so I can show the advisor. First video is when I get the "Unable to Charge" message. Second video is my jerry-rigging
Broken Charger Port
My Fix
If the dealer is ‘trained’ to work on the Bolt then they should have a technician there who is trained specifically for the EV’s. The service advisor likely is not.
It’s frustrating that GM did not install DCFC in dealerships that service EV’s. How would they ever be able to test and diagnose a charging issue when they don’t have a charger.
It looks however like that metal piece is falling too far back for some reason, so the latch can’t engage behind it. I would guess the broken piece of plastic is drop behind that metal piece.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,597 Posts
How would they ever be able to test and diagnose a charging issue when they don’t have a charger.
The same way an Electrify America repair worker driving a diesel pickup truck diagnoses and repairs an EA charging station. They use test equipment.

Keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,584 Posts
Dealer in Arizona had no idea what the issue is. It only happens with DCFC, and the service advisor literally had no idea what DCFC was. He insisted that they tested on a DCFC, but there is not a DCFC station at that dealer. And it is not fixed. I drove it back to California, so hopefully I will get a more knowledgeable advisor. I video'd it so I can show the advisor. First video is when I get the "Unable to Charge" message. Second video is my jerry-rigging
Broken Charger Port
My Fix
Good videos. Thanks. The port latch actuator is clearly broken. I assume the little piece of plastic that broke served as wedge on that solenoid to force the chrome latch down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
I have had this car for 2 years, and a Volt for the previous 3.5, and I have never heard of it before!
Your Volt had no charging lock. I can confirm that since we had plenty of gen 1 and gen 2 Volts at my work. Pre-COVID I (and others) would unplug finished cars and plug in our own/waiting cars.

I do have concerns in the back of my mind about how much it might cost to repair this if it happens out of warranty...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
What gives me pause is the danger this puts you in. Have other had this happen or is this just isolated? You would arc pretty bad if the cable came out due to a defective lock. They should not have used plastic in any of the latching parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
543 Posts
What gives me pause is the danger this puts you in. ...
Not so sure it's that bad.
If you were a dummy and unplugged (your broken latch) while 50kW worth of ~375VDC was flowing, there would be a spark at the two big pins and sockets, for sure. You might see small arc burn marks on them.
It's not like you're going to have a 1 foot spark shooting out...
I'm sure the DCFC station would stop the charge instantaneously if the connection was opened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,578 Posts
Your Volt had no charging lock.
It might be worth pointing out here that the lock used to prevent someone from yanking the charging cable out while DC fast charging is not the same thing as the latch that you press to release the plug. The lock prevents you from pressing the latch. The latch must be properly engaged to charge at a L1, L2 or DC charger, but the lock only activates at a DC charger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
847 Posts
The lock prevents you from pressing the latch. The latch must be properly engaged to charge at a L1, L2 or DC charger, but the lock only activates at a DC charger.
FWIW, that's what I thought about the bolded part since that's what '13+ Leaf can do on J1772 and I've had the displeasure of encountering @$%#$% J1772 AC charging locks on i3's, e-Golfs, HyunKias, etc.

However, I WAS surprised to find on some CCS chargers, the lock does NOT prevent the pressing of the trigger and microswitch while DC FCing. Upon pressing it, the Bolt unlocked the plug. This was an EVgo BTC FatBoy DC FC. See my 2nd video at Tesla needs to move to CCS in North America.

However, either on a ChargePoint CPE 250 or CPE 100 or both, I can confirm that pressing on the trigger while DC FCing did NOT cause a release and the tang (latch) was blocked. I even got the microswitch in the trigger to click one one or both, but charging continued and not release.

So, it seems there can be differences in SAE Combo handles like that, which surprised me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
543 Posts
...However, I WAS surprised to find on some CCS chargers, the lock does NOT prevent the pressing of the trigger and microswitch while DC FCing. Upon pressing it, the Bolt unlocked the plug. This was an EVgo BTC FatBoy DC FC. ...

However, either on a ChargePoint CPE 250 or CPE 100 or both, I can confirm that pressing on the trigger while DC FCing did NOT cause a release and the tang (latch) was blocked. ....
This is a difference with the DCFC stations' protocols for stopping a charge.
It must not be standardized with the SAE.
I tested this once and I believe on a EA station will stop the charge and unlock after a slight delay. I'm sure there was some delay at the EVgo station also. You have to have the 50kW of power stopped.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cwerdna
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top