In the US, the latch is not supposed to engage when using a J1772 plug, and the onboard charger. The latch is only used when DC fast charging with the CCS plug. This is not the case in countries where you bring your own J1772 cord to public AC EVSEs. In these countries, the latch does engage, to prevent cord theft.
charging port will not accept charging cable
-
Hey Guest, welcome to ChevyBolt.org. We encourage you to register to engage in conversations about your Bolt.
361 - 380 of 397 Posts
The patch does more than fix the charge port issue. It also (hopefully) resolves the P0BBD problem and probably other stuff we aren't aware of.
Joined
·
1 Posts
When you took it in, did they determine the cause? We have 95,000 miles on the car so were thinking it might be our 12V battery needs replacing
Chevrolet Mobile Service came out to my driveway yesterday (after scheduling with Stevens Creek Chevrolet). They flashed the firmware, did a multi-point inspection and aired up the tires. All I know so far is that the charge port was blocked when they got here and unblocked when they left. It gives me a decent feeling about the whole thing. GM moves slowly, but they always eventually do the right thing. Maybe that'll be my last issue with the car...?
Chevrolet Mobile Service??? Ah, Stevens Creek Chev = Silicon Valley so they have to compete with Tesla there...
IF that's the case that's stupid on gm's part. People read the issue and determine if they want to go through the hassle to get it fixed. If they aren't experiencing the issue then perhaps (like me) they won't take it in. If it's going to repair other issues it needs to be clearly stated as such IMO.
Look, I do like my Bolt, but I don't like the hassle of having it serviced over and over again. My experience with the recall was horrific, to the point I needed to get my State Attorney General's office involved. I have zero incentive to want to deal with the crappy service and restrictions that gm put into place. Every brand new vehicle I've ever purchased has been a gm product, but I'm not certain my next vehicle will be based on how frustrating the battery issue and repairs have been.
It came true. Bolt made it to Least reliable cars and trucks of 2022.
Not surprised given this problem, P0BBD (some spurious, some real), some bad packs being installed coupled w/some dealers not using Vac-N-Fill --> low coolant and error message + some hitting the GM mistake of limiting replaced pack cars to 80% along w/people not following directions and dinging Bolt for the recall.
Watch out. You will be called out for being disloyal to the team.
Oh yes, forgot about Service transmission Now, unable to shift soon. To me, all of these which sprang up all more recently can all add up to bad reliability ratings.
Joined
·
360 Posts
Last night third time this happened. Dealer "fixed" it once, disconnecting the ground on the battery reset it second time. I could hear it snap back as the battery was reconnected, but in below freezing weather, not so easy..
you're a life savior! thank you for this tip
Joined
·
4 Posts
We are continuing to experience this problem with our 2019 Bolt. We’ve been back to the dealer 4 times in the past year. The dealer fix only lasts about one week or so. We are lucky that one plug at a municipal building near us will still click in enough to charge the car. But, no long distance trips for us! I am not comfortable disconnecting the 12v battery. Period. How can we get through to Chevy to fix this issue once & for all? P.S. we are still waiting for our replacement battery! Not happy at the moment with Chevy!!
Am I the only one who didn't find the process of disconnecting the battery "easy?" Not sure if it happened in manufacturing, but my terminal bolt was all bent out of shape. I had to crank on the nut to loosen it, then due to the angle of the bolt hole, the bolt and nut are stuck between plastic members of the battery structure and I couldn't free the nut from the bolt. Still not sure how people got around this.
Tightened it back up as much as I could but I will have to get to the store for a replacement bolt and nut before trying again. Bit of a tricky situation, as we're traveling for the remainder of the holiday week and weekend, and my 2019 Bolt with replacement HV battery was only at about 25% SOC when this happened. I need about 15% for my commute.
My public transit option for work on Monday would involve a 90 minute bus ride followed by at least a half hour on a bicycle, lol.
It's not clear to me exactly what you're describing - but you know that you don't actually have to remove the nut from the bolt, right? You just need to loosen it a turn or two and then wiggle the connector up off the battery post.
I did not know that, thank you! (Obviously don't work on cars much) but despite the connector being very loose I'm having trouble getting it off the terminal. It rotates and wiggles around super freely, but I can't pull it up and off. I'll keep trying at it and report back if I can get it to fix the issue.
Yes, I just wasn't pulling up on the center of the connector enough. Got it off, waited 3 minutes, reconnected it and the latch reset. Thanks for everyone's help in this thread.
One more thing, when I reconnected the negative terminal, it sparked a little as it made the connection, and it scared me a bit so I grabbed a piece of wood to push it all the way down back into place.
How do you know when it's safe to touch?
Sometimes I resort to sticking a wide-bladed flat screwdriver underneath the terminal and then twisting it to force the terminal up on one side and then the other as I wiggle it. No problem doing this with the negative terminal because it's at the same voltage potential as all the other metal parts under the hood - but I wouldn't try it with the positive terminal....!
It's only 12V, it won't hurt you. The sparks are because the battery can pump out a lot of current which flows easily through the metal wire and terminal. But 12V doesn't have enough oomph to push anything significant through your flesh. It's essentially got a very similar shock potential as a 9V battery - which is to say, not very much.
To use the trusty hydraulic analogy, voltage = the distance that water drops, and current (amps) = how much water is dropping. If 12Volts = 12 inches of water, water dropping from a 12 inch height isn't enough to hurt you no matter how much water it is (if you're lying under a very broad 12" waterfall, for example). But if the water is falling from way up there (high voltage battery = 400V = 400 inches = over 30 feet), then if there's a lot of it then it might well cause you some damage.
361 - 380 of 397 Posts
