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The kind grind. I love the use of the bottom deck as a reflector--back in silently, pop the hatch, and let the party begin!


What kind of power are you driving on the amp? Did you need to back up the amp with a capacitor?
 

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The kind grind. I love the use of the bottom deck as a reflector--back in silently, pop the hatch, and let the party begin!


What kind of power are you driving on the amp? Did you need to back up the amp with a capacitor?
The capacitor is not a "backup". It can supply high currents for a fraction of a second (there is a formula to calculate the size according to the current and time) and avoid clipping. But a good 12 VDC connection can supply that current, too. So it depends on how loud you really want the sound (in watts) to determine if you need a large capacitor.

Presently I do use a 15 VDC, 350 F bank as the starter supply for my Onan 5 KW generator. It is lighter and cheaper than the original lead-acid battery it replaces, and does not need a trickle current to keep it charged.
 

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The intent is to see how the BOLT dc-to-dc converter works in a high-power auto sub-woofer setup. Several years ago, I did a setup with a diesel Audi which required running the vehicle's alternator to provide the 100A needed for a ~1000W RMS amplifier.


Clearly, no one would expect a capacitor to be a backup; it is more to increase the compliance of the car electrical system an avoid lights dimming or electronics resetting due to voltage drops on bass notes. (Typically, you want RC (in seconds) of the amp system to be greater than half the cutoff frequency of the bass channel--I used a 2 farad as the compliance element.)


@LaBrother has a neat setup in that you do not need to run an engine to keep at least a 1000W sub-woofer running. The Bolt dc-to-dc converter is rated for 140A from references in the service manual, so it should approximate the Audi's 140 Amp alternator.



It would be useful to get the details on the full setup.
 
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