Chevy Bolt EV Forum banner
  • Hey Guest, welcome to We encourage you to register to engage in conversations about your Bolt.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've shared this on FB, but I'll also put it here so it's searchable (and more permanent). I'm a Bolt owner and a car audio competitor. I've upgraded the system in my Bolt and it happened to fit into the USACi "Intro SQ" class very well. You're not allowed a DSP in the class and the factory processing in the Bolt is actually much better than some give it credit for. I've discussed it in a previous thread where I took some measurements and gave some subjective listening impressions.

So, from the beginning, there isn't much info out there for DIY upgrades and there's some saying you need to get to the amp behind the glovebox to tap the signal. Trust me when I tell you that you do not want to do that. That thing is BURIED back there so I set about hunting up a better spot. I poked around and finally found what I was looking for in the passenger kick panel area. This harness has all four doors' speaker wires in it. Easy peasy. I couldn't locate the tweeters in the harness, so I just caught that signal at the tweeter itself. Like I said, I wanted to retain the factory processing so I utilized every speaker location for input to the amps.

Here's the location of the harness and a close up of all four doors' wires. (I'm hoping these pics imbed)

Now that I have the signal tapped, I started on the cargo area. I have no idea what these existing studs in the floor pan are actually for, but they will make a fine mount for the false floor- which will be the mounting point for the rest of the system. They're M6 in case anyone is wondering.

False floor.

I skipped a few steps here with cutting and what not, but I'm just laying things out to see how they'll go.

Progress. I wasn't super excited about how the EQ's were in this version.

Version1. Scrapped.

Final version coming together

Pleasantly surprised by the voltage here. Strange I had never measured it before.

And the finished product, I swapped subs later, but it was basically the same thing. I skipped the sub box build, but it's ~ 1cf sealed and stuffed. It's just a rectangle box with a beauty panel.


7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The door woofers are actually not all that bad. Especially for the bandwidth for which I was going to use them. I also wasn't too keen on all the added weight of proper door prep so they stayed. I did replace the tweeters with a tiny wideband driver from Hybrid Audio. These will play 500hz and up.

I know some have suggested you can get the tweeters out by prying up the adjacent panel, but just remove the 'A" pillar so you don't wreck the panel. It's one screw and a one clip. But be careful popping the top clip out. I hate those **** things. I broke mine.


2022 Bolt EUV Launch Edition Ghost Grey
1,794 Posts
That鈥檚 awesome!!! Congrats! By the way, the studs in the trunk well are where the factory sub and amp, if equipped, are secured to.

Thanks for the well documented write up as well. I found the tip on the harness useful. Plan to eventually install an amp as well.

You won with the stock door woofers, too?
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.