[Pod]

My 2019 Bolt has developed a creaking sound most noticeable in start/stop traffic in "L" mode. I know there are lots of threads about errant sounds but I need advice on where to have it fixed (I have no mechanical ability). I took the car to my dealer for a tire rotation and asked that they look into it. When they heard about the noise, they said they would likely need to keep the car overnight. By the end of the next day, I called and was told they verified the sound but not the cause. They hadn't even done the rotation at that point. I was a little grumpy as they've been stellar through the previous 3 1/2 years of ownership. I had them rotate the tires and picked up the car ($29 - my first dealer expense, BTW).

Anyway, would it be wise to have a mechanic that doesn't specialize in Bolts or EVs to look at the car or should I find another Chevy dealer nearby? These guys kind of act like it's something they're not interested in fixing. I guess I don't know how much the heavy pack interferes with what might otherwise be a routine inspection and repair.

 

[Avery]

I have a very similar sound, where it's a creak when slowing down in L at full power from about 15MPH. I believe many others noted that it could be the axle nut being slightly loose over time due to the power the front tires and axle deals with.

 

[Pod]

I have a very similar sound, where it's a creak when slowing down in L at full power from about 15MPH. I believe many others noted that it could be the axle nut being slightly loose over time due to the power the front tires and axle deals with.

I believe the sound is coming from behind but I could be wrong. I thought about going through the forums and printing out every post with diagnostic info to maybe give these guys a head start. I'm not sure they'd even look at it though. It was like I had a problem they didn't want to deal with.

 

[Avery]

I believe the sound is coming from behind but I could be wrong. I thought about going through the forums and printing out every post with diagnostic info to maybe give these guys a head start. I'm not sure they'd even look at it though. It was like I had a problem they didn't want to deal with.

If it's from the rear than it probably is the rear swaybar, it's a known problem that the pipe inside of the tubing breaks (not a safety issue, so no recall) but I remember someone saying out the door (if outside of warranty) is around a grand. Issue is that they replace it with the same part, so it'll just keep happening over and over again.

 

[tk1971]

For me, it was the Steel Half-Shaft Washers, GM # 11611965 that are located between the wheel bearing hub and the axle.

These are 0.53mm thick and mine were literally in pieces. There are other posts about these destroying the wheel speed sensor and/or the sensor indexing ring on the wheel bearing hub when they break into pieces. Apparently this happens with Bolts and Volts.

Here some pics from when I replaced mine.

 

[tk1971]

More pics…

 

[Pod]

If it's from the rear than it probably is the rear swaybar, it's a known problem that the pipe inside of the tubing breaks (not a safety issue, so no recall) but I remember someone saying out the door (if outside of warranty) is around a grand. Issue is that they replace it with the same part, so it'll just keep happening over and over again.

Thank you. From what I can glean from a cursory google, front sway bar issues are also a thing but require the entire motor assembly be removed to fix? I feel like I need to verify the location now. Somehow I ended up with an extended warranty (not normal for me...must have been nervousness about getting an EV; either that or I could swear the guy lied and said it also extended the warranty on the battery). Anyway, looking through the suspect multi-page contract, I found a line about creaky, squeaky or noisy parts not being covered. Go figure.

 

[Pod]

For me, it was the Steel Half-Shaft Washers, GM # 11611965 that are located between the wheel bearing hub and the axle.

These are 0.53mm thick and mine were literally in pieces. There are other posts about these destroying the wheel speed sensor and/or the sensor indexing ring on the wheel bearing hub when they break into pieces. Apparently this happens with Bolts and Volts.

Hmm. Interesting. First I've heard about this problem. I assume then that your symptoms were the same (creaking on acceleration and deceleration - worse when one pedal driving)?

 

[tk1971]

… I assume then that your symptoms were the same (creaking on acceleration and deceleration - worse when one pedal driving)?

Yes, exactly.

 

[tk1971]

Some have reported simply tightening the 32mm wheel hub nut fixed it. Others reported that it came back, etc. Check out this post:

Wheel Hub nut size and torque settings please?

Does anyone know the size and torque settings of the front wheel hub nut... i.e. the nut that secures the hub to the drive shaft? Is it the same as the Volt, i.e. you use a 32mm socket and 185 ft-lbs (250Nm) torque? Thank you. Ian

www.chevybolt.org

Buying two new washers is only going to set you back around $10. The cost is almost all labor.

GM Genuine Parts 11611965 0.53 mm Thick Steel Half-Shaft Washer, Blue Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 11611965 0.53 mm Thick Steel Half-Shaft Washer, Blue : Automotive

 

[MikeyBolt]

Does it sound like it's inside or outside the cabin? My creak in the same conditions turned out to be the back of the driver's seat. Lean forward and back in the seat and you can rule that out if it doesn't creak when putting pressure on the back of the seat.

Mike

 

[Pod]

Does it sound like it's inside or outside the cabin? My creak in the same conditions turned out to be the back of the driver's seat. Lean forward and back in the seat and you can rule that out if it doesn't creak when putting pressure on the back of the seat.

Mike

Thanks. I just double-checked. It's not the seat unfortunately.

 

[finch4ever]

For me it was this part that got replaced

Cracking Noise

My 2019 with 20k km on it makes a craking noise, like an old bed with an old box spring kinde of noise, at low speed on uneven road or bumps. I have the feeling the noise comes from the front suspension. The dealer says it comes from the rear axle and they are replacing the rear axle this...

www.chevybolt.org

 

[Pod]

I have a very similar sound, where it's a creak when slowing down in L at full power from about 15MPH. I believe many others noted that it could be the axle nut being slightly loose over time due to the power the front tires and axle deals with.

Ding. Ding.

Although 3/4 of my family (including myself) thought the sound was coming from the rear, it turns out it was actually the right front axle nut. The approval request described the nut as "one time use" so they replaced it. Not sure if that's valid. Anyway, thanks everyone for the help. After my previous experience, I printed out a brief list of the known causes and left it for them in the car.

 

[vladimir.baranov]

2017 Bolt LT. Same creaking sounds as described in the thread. Ended up being the broken washer and the mechanics installed new ones that I got for both sides from here - 2011-2016 Chevrolet Front Wheel Half-Shaft Washer 11611964 | GMPartsDirect.com. 11611965 was bigger than 11611964 and was wrong color so did not attempt it.

 

[SammyDog]

For me, it was the Steel Half-Shaft Washers, GM # 11611965 that are located between the wheel bearing hub and the axle.

These are 0.53mm thick and mine were literally in pieces. There are other posts about these destroying the wheel speed sensor and/or the sensor indexing ring on the wheel bearing hub when they break into pieces. Apparently this happens with Bolts and Volts.

Here some pics from when I replaced mine.
View attachment 42504 View attachment 42505

I'm getting ready to try this repair myself. I may even possibly try making a YouTube video for others (something I've never done before!) Before I dive in I had a couple of questions. 1). Did this repair require any specialized tools? 2). Were you able to slide the caliper off and on without issues? 3). Did you leave the other wheel on the ground so as to provide resistance when it came time to tighten everything up? 4). Did you do both sides while you were doing the repair (mine seems to be passenger side only)? I'm not sure if you see/respond to this post still...but I appreciate the feedback if you do...and if I make the video would gladly give you a shout out if you like.

 

[finch4ever]

Interested.
If you do a youtube video I will bookmark it for sure.

 

[tk1971]

I'm getting ready to try this repair myself. I may even possibly try making a YouTube video for others (something I've never done before!) Before I dive in I had a couple of questions. 1). Did this repair require any specialized tools? 2). Were you able to slide the caliper off and on without issues? 3). Did you leave the other wheel on the ground so as to provide resistance when it came time to tighten everything up? 4). Did you do both sides while you were doing the repair (mine seems to be passenger side only)? I'm not sure if you see/respond to this post still...but I appreciate the feedback if you do...and if I make the video would gladly give you a shout out if you like.

1) Yes, my 1/2” drive torque wrench only went up to 150 lbs ft so I had to get a new one going up to 250 lbs ft. As I recall the spec needed was 180 lbs ft. Other than that, I needed stuff for the strut replacement that I didn’t have, but that’s to the best of my recollection.

2) Yes, I actually used some steel hooks to keep the calipers from pulling on the brake hose. I guess this falls in to #1 above. See post #5 above and you should be able to see two hooks being used to hang the caliper from.

3) I was in the middle of front strut replacement so I had both front wheels up.

4) Since you really can’t see the condition of the other one until you take it off, why not replace both?

 

[SammyDog]

Thanks so much for your response. My parts come in today (I'm only doing the washers and nuts), so I'll see how it goes...sub-tropical storm headed my way so it may have to wait until the upcoming holiday. I did see the metal hooks, I have something I think can perform that same task.

If I'm able to make this into a video, I'll share it here. From your photos it all seems like a fairly straight forward repair.

 

[SammyDog]

I did the repair this weekend. The one washer was in pieces and the other was thin and made a "clicking" nose when you flex it (and fell off the axel once the bearing was removed). The new parts are at least twice as thick. I did film the second wheel and will try to assemble a video. The first wheel was my "learning experience" replete with swearing and a lot of double and triple checking. It's not a novice repair simply due to the tools needed...I had to buy a number of sockets and larger torque wrench, but it is something that someone with some experience, time and patience can complete. AND it stopped the sound. I also feel like I will keep getting my money out of these tools because I can now replace a wheel bearing and the brakes!