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Dismal range range and charging times. Is it just me?

4481 Views 56 Replies 22 Participants Last post by ARob, May 5, 2022

badreed

Discussion Starter · May 3, 2022

Two weeks ago, I bought a 2017 Bolt Premiere from a dealership in Ohio which installed new batteries in over 60 recalled Bolts. The dealership bought these Bolts from GM at an auction, probably recalled leases from around the country, and potential buyers waited until the batteries slowly arrived. I put the deposit down last November. I had to wait awhile, but it’s finally here!

I’m getting about half the range that the car says I should have. I drive like a granny - about 65-70 HWY. My second home is about 59 miles away, but it took 125 ”bolt miles” to get there. The route is 60% highway and the rest country roads at 45-50 mph. I didn’t use A/C or heat.

In addition, the Bolt has been plugged into my 110V outlet (probably 15A) for 27 hours, but I’ve only gained 55 miles in range. The dashboard estimate for full charge was off by 24 hrs.

Any thoughts? Is this normal? I have an electrician coming in a few days to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet, but the lousy range isn’t working for me. Does anyone else have this problem? Is there a software setting that I’m missing? There are lots of fast chargers near me as I live near major interstates, but a range of 120m isn’t enough for the pricetag.

21 - 40 of 57 Posts

EV Trek 37604

· #21 · May 3, 2022

SpicyBolt said:
This was hotly debated on the Volt forum, as my former Volt has a factory EVSE with the same capacity. It sounds pretty safe based on the research some have done, as well as on how many have adapted it for 240 v. Still, I decided to play it conservative for the reasons you suggested.

I bought a 16 amp Clipper Creek Level 2 for our Volt, and now use it for our Bolt. That too saved me from having to upgrade my buried line to the garage, since that line supports the necessary 20 amp circuit.

OTOH I'm still driving our Bolt without the software update, and even occasionally charge above 80%, so who am I to talk about risk.

I also have a 16 amp level two that I had for my Spark EV, I now carry it and the factory one in the Bolt for emergencies since I now have a Chargepoint Level 2 at home that I have set for 32 amp on a 40 amp circuit.

Reactions: 1

Sean Nelson

· #22 · May 3, 2022

EV Trek 37604 said:
If it’s not labeled for it you shouldn’t be using it on 240v.
As a retired electrician it would be a code violation and if it shorted and burned down your house then your insurance would have a way of not paying.

There are lots of folks on the forum, myself included, who have been doing this for many years without any problems. I haven't read a single complaint about it, compared to numerous issues that have been posted about other L2 charging stations. The preponderance of evidence points to it being a perfectly cromulent practice.

That having been said, I agree that this is a decision that everyone needs to make based on their own personal tolerance of risk. But they can't make that decision unless they know that the alternative exists.

Reactions: 2

SpicyBolt

· #23 · May 3, 2022

Sean Nelson said:
There are lots of folks on the forum, myself included, who have been doing this for many years without any problems. I haven't read a single complaint about it, compared to numerous issues that have been posted about other L2 charging stations. The preponderance of evidence points to it being a perfectly cromulent practice.

That's a good point. I recall someone on the Volt forum actually discovered that the innards of the Volt EVSE were made by Clipper Creek. That may be the case for the Bolt too. It may actually be safer to adapt those to 240v, than it is to use a cheapo Chinese Level 2.

jmcbrew

· #24 · May 3, 2022

badreed said:
Thanks for the outlet tips. I’m getting a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. Probably something like this charger Lectron® EVCharge14-50-32A - 33 A/240 V NEMA 14-50 21' EV Charger

A 32 amp charger will charge the Bolt at its maximum rate, so that’s great. If you want one you can take with you on trips, look for one that can be switched to lower amperage’s instead case you only have a 20 or 30 amp receptacle available, or maybe even just a 120v outlet. My portable EVSE is a Shell Recharge 32a. It can run at up to 16a at 120v (even though the Bolt will only accept 22a), or 12, 16, 34, or 32a at 240v. Worked great when I visited my in-laws and only had a 30a dryer outlet to charge from.

Having said that, my Shell EVSE failed while charging at work, where I have access to a 14-50 outlet. They did quickly send me a replacement unit that has a more recent version number. Hopefully this one will last longer.

EV Trek 37604

· #25 · May 3, 2022 (Edited)

SpicyBolt said:
That's a good point. I recall someone on the Volt forum actually discovered that the innards of the Volt EVSE were made by Clipper Creek. That may be the case for the Bolt too. It may actually be safer to adapt those to 240v, than it is to use a cheapo Chinese Level 2.

Many of those Chinese level 2 EVSEs, especially sold on ebay are also not approved but sold anyway. You have to read the fine print,
Well when it comes to electrical equipment I tend to err on the side of caution. Just my electrical training.

Reactions: 1

ARob

· #26 · May 3, 2022

badreed said:
Thanks for the outlet tips. I’m getting a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. Probably something like this charger Lectron® EVCharge14-50-32A - 33 A/240 V NEMA 14-50 21' EV Charger

Lectron seems to make good gear. I like how the one you linked has a current adjustment. If you intend to carry it along on trips, get a variety of pigtail adapters (hint: RV Supply stores may carry many of the adapters). Make sure if the source outlet is 20A or 30A, that you adjust the Amps before plugging in to the Bolt. Follow the 80% rule (30A circuit, 24A setting on the EVSE, 20A outlet, 16A setting on the EVSE).

Most common outlets in RV parks and truck stops tend to be TT30 (120V 30A), NEMA 6-20/6-30, NEMA 10-30/10/50, NEMA 14-30/14-50. I'm not sure I would bother with a TT30 adapter, the Bolt will only use 12A max, even though the circuit can safely deliver 24A.

You can survey the wall outlets available in areas you frequently travel by using filters in Plugshare to only show Wall and 14-50 outlets.

Font Circle Screenshot Technology Number

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Voldar

· #27 · May 3, 2022

badreed said:
Stats:

70% SOC and 183 miles predicted range isn't bad at all.
I disregard the 3.9 average, because that is the default value after reset. Looking at your other pics, I can evaluate your average around 3.2-3.3 mi/kWh which gives you about 210-215 miles without a problem. That's the average distance if you drive at 70 mph your Bolt EV on the highway.

Sean Nelson

· #28 · May 3, 2022

jmcbrew said:
A 32 amp charger will charge the Bolt at its maximum rate, so that’s great. If you want one you can take with you on trips, look for one that can be switched to lower amperage’s instead case you only have a 20 or 30 amp receptacle available, or maybe even just a 120v outlet.

The EVSE I keep in the trunk for emergencies is a Tesla UMC (Universal Moble Connector). Along with a Tesla to J1772 adapter and three A/C plugs, this combo allows me to charge at Tesla destination chargers, J1772 chargers, and NEMA 5-15, 5-20, 14-30 and 14-50 A/C outlets. And the neat thing is that it automatically adjusts its current level to the type of A/C plug you're using.

jdunmyer

· #29 · May 3, 2022

You said you "drive like a granny, 65-70 mph". Going faster than 65 is not "driving like a granny", keeping it closer to 60 is. It makes huge difference.

Reactions: 1

redpoint5

· #30 · May 3, 2022 (Edited)

The OP is lacking basically all info that would be helpful to evaluate the situation. My first thought was, "what was the starting elevation, and what was the ending elevation". There's a dozen other questions that require answers before providing more definitive feedback.

EV Trek 37604 said:
If it’s not labeled for it you shouldn’t be using it on 240v.
As a retired electrician it would be a code violation and if it shorted and burned down your house then your insurance would have a way of not paying.
I would only use one if the manufacturer had it approved and labeled as such.
Don’t cheap out and get a level 2 that is approved for 240v.

Insurance absolutely will pay. That's what it does; pays for accidents. You can fall asleep drunk with a cigarette in your mouth and burn down the house, and insurance pays for that.

Now if you, as a licensed electrician, installed something incorrectly that directly resulted in a fire, your business insurance would be liable. If for whatever reason that insurance was inadequate, the homeowners policy would pay.

The Bolt EVSE is designed for 240v as the exact same one is used in European markets, only with a different plug. There's no safety concern here except in what manner one adapts the 120v plug to a 240v receptacle.

EV Trek 37604

· #31 · May 3, 2022

redpoint5 said:
The OP is lacking basically all info that would be helpful to evaluate the situation. My first thought was, "what was the starting elevation, and what was the ending elevation". There's a dozen other questions that require answers before providing more definitive feedback.

Insurance absolutely will pay. That's what it does; pays for accidents. You can fall asleep drunk with a cigarette in your mouth and burn down the house, and insurance pays for that.

Now if you, as a licensed electrician, installed something incorrectly that directly resulted in a fire, your business insurance would be liable. If for whatever reason that insurance was inadequate, the homeowners policy would pay.

The Bolt EVSE is designed for 240v as the exact same one is used in European markets, only with a different plug. There's no safety concern here except in what manner one adapts the 120v plug to a 240v receptacle.

You do realize that the 2022 Bolt EUV comes with a actual certified dual voltage EVSE and it’s optional on the Bolt EV. They have a interchangeable pigtail that plugs into the EVSE.

Electronic instrument Gadget Audio equipment Gear shift Gas

I’ll reiterate, the ones previously supplied are not dual voltage certified in the US, they have never been submitted for approvals to be used on 240vac to the US regulatory agencies, it may be certified for use in Europe but European certification is not recognized in the US. If you use it on 240vac you do so at your own risk and should be ready to face the consequences if you have an equipment failure. Any electrical device can fail, the Bolt EVSE is not fail proof.
Have a good evening.

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redpoint5

· #32 · May 4, 2022

EV Trek 37604 said:
You do realize that the 2022 Bolt EUV comes with a actual certified dual voltage EVSE and it’s optional on the Bolt EV. They have a interchangeable pigtail that plugs into the EVSE. View attachment 42338
I’ll reiterate, the ones previously supplied are not dual voltage certified in the US, they have never been submitted for approvals to be used on 240vac to the US regulatory agencies, it may be certified for use in Europe but European certification is not recognized in the US. If you use it on 240vac you do so at your own risk and should be ready to face the consequences if you have an equipment failure. Any electrical device can fail, the Bolt EVSE is not fail proof.
Have a good evening.

I did not know about the dual plug EVSE on the 2022 EUV.

Certification does not guarantee anything, because life comes with no guarantees. The physical properties of the device are unchanged by who accepts what paper document blessing the use thereof. Some people get warm fuzzies having a piece of paper signed by a bureaucratic process. Me, I simply ask myself how something engineered for 240v and approved for those voltages in one area could be at higher risk in another geographic location where that approval process was not sought, and then draw logical conclusions.

It's necessarily that I'm more comfortable with risk, it's that I'm comfortable being at similar risk to Europeans.

Reactions: 1

jmcbrew

· #33 · May 4, 2022

Sean Nelson said:
The EVSE I keep in the trunk for emergencies is a Tesla UMC (Universal Moble Connector). Along with a Tesla to J1772 adapter and three A/C plugs, this combo allows me to charge at Tesla destination chargers, J1772 chargers, and NEMA 5-15, 5-20, 14-30 and 14-50 A/C outlets. And the neat thing is that it automatically adjusts its current level to the type of A/C plug you're using.

I have heard good things about them. It wouldn’t work for me because I plug in at work to a 14-50 outlet that has other loads on the circuit. It is fine if I run it at 24 amps. When I go to my in-laws, they have a 6-50 outlet for their dryer, but is on a 30 amp circuit. No, it isn’t to code, but that’s what is available.

ga2500ev

· #34 · May 4, 2022

jmcbrew said:
I have heard good things about them. It wouldn’t work for me because I plug in at work to a 14-50 outlet that has other loads on the circuit. It is fine if I run it at 24 amps. When I go to my in-laws, they have a 6-50 outlet for their dryer, but is on a 30 amp circuit. No, it isn’t to code, but that’s what is available.

Simple solutions to each: just use an adapter. With the Tesla UMC, the power cord selects the amperage. So if you use a 6-30 power cord on the unit, it'll automatically set the unit to 24 amps.

So get a 6-50 to 6-30 adapter like this one:

www.amazon.com

ONETAK NEMA 6-50P to 6-30R 240V 50 Amp 3 Prong Male Plug to 30 Amp 3 Prong Female Outlet Receptacle Generator Welder Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter

Buy ONETAK NEMA 6-50P to 6-30R 240V 50 Amp 3 Prong Male Plug to 30 Amp 3 Prong Female Outlet Receptacle Generator Welder Dryer EV Charger Power Cord Adapter at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

and use the UMC's 6-30 cord. You can plug into the 6-50 socket and it'll only draw 24 amps.

Here's one that converts 14-50 to 6-30:

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: AC WORKS Range/RV/Generator 14-50P Plug to 6-30R 30 Amp 250 Volt HVAC Connection Adapter (Compact) : Appliances

Amazon.com: AC WORKS Range/RV/Generator 14-50P Plug to 6-30R 30 Amp 250 Volt HVAC Connection Adapter (Compact) : Appliances

www.amazon.com

The pair would run you about $100 total and would give you the power (pun intended) to charge at both places at the right amperage using a single cord for the Tesla unit.

ga2500ev

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ga2500ev

· #35 · May 4, 2022

redpoint5 said:
I did not know about the dual plug EVSE on the 2022 EUV.

Certification does not guarantee anything, because life comes with no guarantees. The physical properties of the device are unchanged by who accepts what paper document blessing the use thereof. Some people get warm fuzzies having a piece of paper signed by a bureaucratic process. Me, I simply ask myself how something engineered for 240v and approved for those voltages in one area could be at higher risk in another geographic location where that approval process was not sought, and then draw logical conclusions.

It's necessarily that I'm more comfortable with risk, it's that I'm comfortable being at similar risk to Europeans.

Right on point sir! An EVSE has 3 basic components: Contactor, electronics, and power supply. The Bolt EVSE is designed with a universal power supply and a contactor that can handle 240V. The electronics are powered from the power supply. From an engineering perspective, there's absolutely no difference betwen 120V and 240V for that unit.

I ran one on 240V for months when my Bosch 30A unit went down. Almost every power supply in the world today are universal units. The only difference is that the Bolt's EVSE has a label on it.

ga2500ev

OneEV

· #36 · May 4, 2022

badreed said:
Stats:

Much better..that's normal. and of course you know if you shut off all the heat/ac when possible for best range

Packard V8

· #37 · May 4, 2022

OneEV said:
and of course you know if you shut off all the heat/ac when possible for best range

And drive 25 MPH; the tradeoffs some are willing to make for best range, others are not, unless necessary for escaping the zombie apocalypse.

jack vines

DuaneS

· #38 · May 4, 2022

redpoint5 said:
I did not know about the dual plug EVSE on the 2022 EUV.

Certification does not guarantee anything, because life comes with no guarantees. The physical properties of the device are unchanged by who accepts what paper document blessing the use thereof. Some people get warm fuzzies having a piece of paper signed by a bureaucratic process. Me, I simply ask myself how something engineered for 240v and approved for those voltages in one area could be at higher risk in another geographic location where that approval process was not sought, and then draw logical conclusions.

It's necessarily that I'm more comfortable with risk, it's that I'm comfortable being at similar risk to Europeans.

There are at least two risks to consider:
1) Risk of failure such that it causes damage (building, vehicle, etc.,.
2) Risk of insurance denying a claim

I would agree that given the device is in use in Europe with 240, the risk of failure is minimal.

Regarding the risk of insurance that others have stated, there is a risk that any aspect of the structure not to code (and when required, with appropriate permits/inspections) and/or any device or method of wiring that is not certified or at least following standard practice is a risk that an insurance company will deny a given claim. Is it likely in this specific scenario? I don't know but the risk does exist and something some people may want to consider.

I would not negate the insurance risk because it is relatively safe.

redpoint5

· #39 · May 4, 2022

DuaneS said:
There are at least two risks to consider:
1) Risk of failure such that it causes damage (building, vehicle, etc.,.
2) Risk of insurance denying a claim

I would agree that given the device is in use in Europe with 240, the risk of failure is minimal.

Regarding the risk of insurance that others have stated, there is a risk that any aspect of the structure not to code (and when required, with appropriate permits/inspections) and/or any device or method of wiring that is not certified or at least following standard practice is a risk that an insurance company will deny a given claim. Is it likely in this specific scenario? I don't know but the risk does exist and something some people may want to consider.

I would not negate the insurance risk because it is relatively safe.

There is no insurance risk. That's what it exists for, to cover accidents, even negligent ones.

When I was a kid, my dad had a burn barrel too close to the garage, and embers burned it down. Super negligent. Insurance paid.

DuaneS

· #40 · May 4, 2022

redpoint5 said:
There is no insurance risk. That's what it exists for, to cover accidents, even negligent ones.

When I was a kid, my dad had a burn barrel too close to the garage, and embers burned it down. Super negligent. Insurance paid.

Maybe for your insurance company. A friend of mine was denied an insurance claim because a fire started in an area of his house where he converted an attic to conditioned space without a permit. Although the cause of the fire had nothing to do with the work he did, it was still denied. Regardless of the reason the insurance company denied it, he suffered for the risk.

When I bought my current house, I was informed of an unpermitted addition and my realtor (rightly so) informed me of the small but potential insurance coverage risk.

Virtually all policies have clauses that limit the insurance companies liability including illegal activity, force majeure, etc.,. If the company determines that a given claim does not fall within the scope of their contract, they can deny the claim. Even if the claim is eventually paid, it is still a hassle to argue with the insurance company and/or receive less than what one should have.

To say that there is NO insurance risk is NOT true. You can argue semantically to what degree but the risk exists.

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