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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have a rock chip that I plan on having a pro shop fix because of ugly DIY repairs I did in the past on old cars using those $10 kits from RainX and Permatex you can get from local stores.

Shopping around and noticed most shops also do tinting and this reminded me of a question I always had: do window tints help hold in heat during the winter? Enough to noticeably add to range? I'm know heat can be given off as IR and that's where the films make sense if they reflect IR back into the cabin. Has anyone had practical experience with tints helping significantly during the winter? If so, should I go for darker or opt for 3M Crystalline that offers better heat rejection/reflection?
 

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Nope. Tint is not going to retain heat or allow you to gather more thermal energy from the sun, if anything it will have the opposite effect in that it will block incoming light that would otherwise warm the interior surfaces of the cabin. In residential windows they use tints that block more light at higher angles to block summer high sun and allow more light to enter at lower angles from winter sun, but it still doesn't allow as much light to enter as a bare window pane. Done more to help with air conditioning costs. The dark surface of the window might get warmer as it absorbs more energy than a clear window would allow to pass through, but the shade in the cabin will result in lower cabin temps overall.
 

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The HVB is under the car and has nothing to do with cabin temps. This equals no range gain, period. UV and IR reflection will reduce temps, not increase them. The HVB is liquid temperature controlled inside it's own case that mounts to the bottom of the car, outside of the cabin compartment.
 

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I don't think tint will help in any winter time scenario, either. If you want to fight range loss due to cabin heating losses, which can be pretty significant, I have thought of a few ways to do this. The first is to keep the cabin temp down a little lower, but you can also make the cabin a little smaller. What you say? Sure! Just hang a trimmed crystal clear shower curtain behind the front seats. You will be able to keep a nice temperature gradient this way. With the spectacular rear view mirror camera (wife's opinion, I have not used much yet) this will have minimal effect on your view out the back.

A second way to make cooler cabin temps more bearable is to ride a motorcycle! Not really, but motorcycle gear has some nice innovations you might wish to try in your electric car. So we have heated seats and heated steering wheel, but what else? How about some heated insoles for your feet, or a heated torso vest? Low power and quite cozy! I think with a coat on in the car the vest might be too much, but many people like to have more heat for the feet in winter. I'm going to make a pair of my wife's slip-on winter boots into the "driving pair" since she needs to swap into business footwear when she arrives at work in the winter anyhow. We'll see how it goes...
 

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It's easier to use the heated seats and steering wheel to keep warm and it won't make a big hit on HVB range like the heater or AC will. If you have an LT without heated seats and steering wheel, oh well! :crying:
 

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I've come to trust the Automatic setting on the HVAC, it seems to do a pretty good job of managing temp for you at minimum cost. Reading the manual it uses three sensors, internal temp, external and ambient light level. I've noticed it preferentially uses the recirculation (don't bring in new air that needs to be conditioned), and in hot weather instead of cooling the air will turn up the fan (within limits) to give you the same feeling. In cold weather I'd expect it to use the heated seats liberally.

Edit: the other thing is we all get in a sweat over the heating coils which can use up to 6kW. I spent some time applying them while at a stop and observed the power usage. First I found that it's not continuous, it burns 5-6kW initially but then depending on the internal temp will quickly ramp it down. Second, driving at 55 mph on a flat seems to use about 10-12 kW steady state. Drive steady on a freeway for an hour and that' 12kWh, but meanwhile your air heating would probably have long shuttered down. I've been using a lot of climate control recently, and have been getting sportier in my driving and you know my observation is that driving style is far more destructive to range than climate. And while it's fun to game it and get a high score, unless you actually need every kWh probably most of us don't.
 

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I've come to trust the Automatic setting on the HVAC, it seems to do a pretty good job of managing temp for you at minimum cost. Reading the manual it uses three sensors, internal temp, external and ambient light level. I've noticed it preferentially uses the recirculation (don't bring in new air that needs to be conditioned), and in hot weather instead of cooling the air will turn up the fan (within limits) to give you the same feeling. In cold weather I'd expect it to use the heated seats liberally.
This is the SUN LOAD SENSOR at the front, center of the dash. It incorporates the charging lamp too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for all the comments. I'll skip the tint then since cooling in the summer uses less energy than heating in the winter. I skipped the heated steering and seats cause it was not really worth it when I had it in the Volt. The heated seats never really helped since I was already wearing a coat. The heated steering wheel was VERY nice, but again, I couldn't justify the cost for the Comfort Package. Oddly enough, the bare plastic steering wheel feels pretty neutral in temp the past few 50F days. It doesn't feel ice cold (yet).

Besides, another major reason I upgraded to the Bolt was for HVAC usage to defog the windows. In my old 2017 Volt, it always fogged when using minimal HVAC (no more than 10F above ambient if I can manage, and allow fresh air to be used to defog). The only way I could sufficiently defog the window was to use some heat which ate up EV range, even after the HVAC power consumption reduced after initial surge of power from just turning on HVAC.

With the Bolt, I don't have any qualms of cranking the heat and keeping nice and toasty. Just like PrefessorBolta points out, the heat consumption is 6-7kW for a minute or two before it drops down to 3kW. This up/down goes on throughout my commute so I'd say HVAC uses ~4-5kW of energy, not terrible really.
 
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