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I've seen previous posts that address the removal of door panels for speaker replacement. The posts indicate that if you remove the decorative white plastic piece and the bolt behind it , you are able to remove the door panel. I also removed the bolt near the window control. After removing these two bolts, I am unable to remove the door panel. Is there another bolt near the door handle or somewhere else that needs to be removed prior to being able to remove the door panel?
 

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2017 Bolt EV / 2014 Spark EV / 2020 Tesla Model Y
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I have an LT and there is no need to remove the white trim. One bold is under a plug at the bottom of the hand grip and there is a bolt hidden behind the latch. The latter is covered by a thin plastic cover that is easily pried out with a small flathead screwdriver. My photos while working on mine are blurry - sorry, but I have marked up one for the handle. The latch is a quick movie. I'll post that in a minute...
 

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After those two bolts are removed, give the bottom of the door panel a strong yank to pop the plastic retainers. If you're willing to work on your back, you can leave the top of the door attached and reach under the dangling panel to remove the old driver and pop in the new one.
 

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If you want dynamat over top of the factory vapor sheet, sure. If you want to put it inside the door, opposite the driver -- probably not. I didn't completely remove the panels, so someone else will need to speak to that.
 

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Adding embedded pics and hopefully some detail. My Bolt is a 2019, but should be applicable for 2017-Present

In the grab handle (as previously mentioned), you'll want to pry the cover from the side away from the car, as the car side is hinged. The screw has a 9/32" head.

For the panel behind the door pull, you'll want to pry from the upper corner furthest from the car (closest to the hinge of the door handle), due to the construction of the retention pieces. Behind this is a 9/32" head screw.

The side and bottom perimeter pop clips are easier than the top row (circled in red, also happens to be a different style). To start, the easiest place I found was at the inside bottom corner (closest to the body).

I was genuinely surprised with unpopping the lower and sides, that the top didn't lift up and off. The door panel can be lifted away from the door a bit, and as mentioned you'll have some access. I used the tool above to pry the 5 top row clips free, one by one (it wasn't particularly easy). With the door panel now loose, it's necessary to lift it upwards and remove the lock indicator from its slot, unplug the window control/door control module (this will make the car believe the door is open while it's disconnected), unplug the power lock switch, and disconnect the door pull cable. All of the previous 4 steps I found challenging, minus unplugging the window module, and it is advised that care be taken to avoid damage. A small pick tool or flathead screwdriver is mandatory to undo the lock switch.

This panel resides on the top inside of the door and is UNNECESSARY to remove you take the door panel off, rather it is for access to the side view mirror fasteners (something by misfortune I've learned all too much about). If you remove this panel, you can bet money you've broken at least to of the clips, and will either have to glue them, get a new panel, or have some floppy ghetto bs. I chose to glue mine.

Regarding dynamat, you could PROBABLY get away with doing just the speaker area without taking the panel off (would probably be equally if not slightly more frustrating). To do more than that, you will have to remove the door panel and moisture barrier (personally don't feel it's worth it. My model is the Premier trim, and has a "fluffy" layer of material in between the moisture barrier and the door panel (it's attached to the door panel) and I'm wondering if the LT has this as well?).
 

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Adding embedded pics and hopefully some detail. My Bolt is a 2019, but should be applicable for 2017-Present

In the grab handle (as previously mentioned), you'll want to pry the cover from the side away from the car, as the car side is hinged. The screw has a 9/32" head.

For the panel behind the door pull, you'll want to pry from the upper corner furthest from the car (closest to the hinge of the door handle), due to the construction of the retention pieces. Behind this is a 9/32" head screw.

The side and bottom perimeter pop clips are easier than the top row (circled in red, also happens to be a different style). To start, the easiest place I found was at the inside bottom corner (closest to the body).

I was genuinely surprised with unpopping the lower and sides, that the top didn't lift up and off. The door panel can be lifted away from the door a bit, and as mentioned you'll have some access. I used the tool above to pry the 5 top row clips free, one by one (it wasn't particularly easy). With the door panel now loose, it's necessary to lift it upwards and remove the lock indicator from its slot, unplug the window control/door control module (this will make the car believe the door is open while it's disconnected), unplug the power lock switch, and disconnect the door pull cable. All of the previous 4 steps I found challenging, minus unplugging the window module, and it is advised that care be taken to avoid damage. A small pick tool or flathead screwdriver is mandatory to undo the lock switch.

This panel resides on the top inside of the door and is UNNECESSARY to remove you take the door panel off, rather it is for access to the side view mirror fasteners (something by misfortune I've learned all too much about). If you remove this panel, you can bet money you've broken at least to of the clips, and will either have to glue them, get a new panel, or have some floppy ghetto bs. I chose to glue mine.

Regarding dynamat, you could PROBABLY get away with doing just the speaker area without taking the panel off (would probably be equally if not slightly more frustrating). To do more than that, you will have to remove the door panel and moisture barrier (personally don't feel it's worth it. My model is the Premier trim, and has a "fluffy" layer of material in between the moisture barrier and the door panel (it's attached to the door panel) and I'm wondering if the LT has this as well?).
Adding embedded pics and hopefully some detail. My Bolt is a 2019, but should be applicable for 2017-Present

In the grab handle (as previously mentioned), you'll want to pry the cover from the side away from the car, as the car side is hinged. The screw has a 9/32" head.

For the panel behind the door pull, you'll want to pry from the upper corner furthest from the car (closest to the hinge of the door handle), due to the construction of the retention pieces. Behind this is a 9/32" head screw.

The side and bottom perimeter pop clips are easier than the top row (circled in red, also happens to be a different style). To start, the easiest place I found was at the inside bottom corner (closest to the body).

I was genuinely surprised with unpopping the lower and sides, that the top didn't lift up and off. The door panel can be lifted away from the door a bit, and as mentioned you'll have some access. I used the tool above to pry the 5 top row clips free, one by one (it wasn't particularly easy). With the door panel now loose, it's necessary to lift it upwards and remove the lock indicator from its slot, unplug the window control/door control module (this will make the car believe the door is open while it's disconnected), unplug the power lock switch, and disconnect the door pull cable. All of the previous 4 steps I found challenging, minus unplugging the window module, and it is advised that care be taken to avoid damage. A small pick tool or flathead screwdriver is mandatory to undo the lock switch.

This panel resides on the top inside of the door and is UNNECESSARY to remove you take the door panel off, rather it is for access to the side view mirror fasteners (something by misfortune I've learned all too much about). If you remove this panel, you can bet money you've broken at least to of the clips, and will either have to glue them, get a new panel, or have some floppy ghetto bs. I chose to glue mine.

Regarding dynamat, you could PROBABLY get away with doing just the speaker area without taking the panel off (would probably be equally if not slightly more frustrating). To do more than that, you will have to remove the door panel and moisture barrier (personally don't feel it's worth it. My model is the Premier trim, and has a "fluffy" layer of material in between the moisture barrier and the door panel (it's attached to the door panel) and I'm wondering if the LT has this as well?).
Wheel Tire Car Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Can you please explain how you got to the five upper Clips? I have an Ampera-e in Norway and want to sound dampen the doors. I have a similar tool to yours, but do the Clips undo outward or upward? I can just barely get my fingers up there.
 

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View attachment 38119 Can you please explain how you got to the five upper Clips? I have an Ampera-e in Norway and want to sound dampen the doors. I have a similar tool to yours, but do the Clips undo outward or upward? I can just barely get my fingers up there.
Another member was kind enough to upload the service manual. Looks like you have to go up for the top clips:
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Can you please explain how you got to the five upper Clips? I have an Ampera-e in Norway and want to sound dampen the doors. I have a similar tool to yours, but do the Clips undo outward or upward? I can just barely get my fingers up there.
Sorry for the delayed response. The top row of 5 clips are pressure/friction clips as well, just a different variety (and much more difficult). From memory and my picture(s), on the door panel, the side and bottom clips are male, which snap into the door, whereas the top clips are the reverse, female on the panel side, and protrude from the door. This design is not particularly tech friendly and may be a bit unforgiving, so be careful and good luck.
 

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Sorry for the delayed response. The top row of 5 clips are pressure/friction clips as well, just a different variety (and much more difficult). From memory and my picture(s), on the door panel, the side and bottom clips are male, which snap into the door, whereas the top clips are the reverse, female on the panel side, and protrude from the door. This design is not particularly tech friendly and may be a bit unforgiving, so be careful and good luck.
Thanks for Your reply. Yes, I find the force needed a bit harsh.
 
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