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Discussion Starter #1
My wife had a little incident on the Jersey Turnpike friday. :eek:

She needed to stop suddenly, hit the brakes, judged that she would rear-end the car in front of her and so swerved into the Jersey barrier (while braking continuously). The car hit the barrier, but not the other car.

Car has a nice (hand sized) scuff on the drivers side bumper fascia, that continues onto the wheel well rim. The fascia is not dented in any way.

The left front wheel (a steelie with winter tire and a plastic hubcap) appears undamaged, but the hubcap popped off and is gone.

Now, the car reports 'Service Stabilitrack Soon' and the alignment appears to be a little off...The steering wheel must be turned about 5-10° CCW from normal to go straight on the road.

Anyone want to speculate about internal damage...and repair costs? Should I go to my dealer, or my trusted repair guy who worked on all my ICE cars (but never an EV)??
 

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Obviously steering & suspension damage was done, bring it to a GM dealership with a body shop.
IMO, the Bolt is going to be a learning experience (at your expense) for your regular guy. They may not even have the alignment spec for the Bolt yet, so there's something else to consider. The GM dealership has the full backing of GM and their engineers behind them to make everything 100% perfect again.
 

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My wife had a little incident on the Jersey Turnpike friday. :eek:

She needed to stop suddenly, hit the brakes, judged that she would rear-end the car in front of her and so swerved into the Jersey barrier (while braking continuously). The car hit the barrier, but not the other car.

Car has a nice (hand sized) scuff on the drivers side bumper fascia, that continues onto the wheel well rim. The fascia is not dented in any way.

The left front wheel (a steelie with winter tire and a plastic hubcap) appears undamaged, but the hubcap popped off and is gone.

Now, the car reports 'Service Stabilitrack Soon' and the alignment appears to be a little off...The steering wheel must be turned about 5-10° CCW from normal to go straight on the road.

Anyone want to speculate about internal damage...and repair costs? Should I go to my dealer, or my trusted repair guy who worked on all my ICE cars (but never an EV)??
I would agree with NY Rob, your vehicle is under warranty and as its new technology per se the dealer is the best place. Want to keep that warranty too, and any future issue that comes up with the repair is covered by the dealer making it less likely to a finger pointing game. Lastly unless you really need the facia etc perfect you might opt to leave that for now if the budget is tight. Just get the mechanicals fixed.

BTW it could be as simple as a front end alignment. The car (stabilitrack) knows the steering is not centered / alignment is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All fixed. As hoped, only an alignment was needed. Dealer did it, and charged be $104.

Left the steering wheel clamp thingy in the car...oops. I will drop it off next time I am over there.

Any suggestions on DIY buffing out the scuff on the bumper fascia?
 

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All fixed. As hoped, only an alignment was needed. Dealer did it, and charged be $104.

Left the steering wheel clamp thingy in the car...oops. I will drop it off next time I am over there.

Any suggestions on DIY buffing out the scuff on the bumper fascia?

post a picture, if it just a clearcoat surface scuff you can use car polishes, if its deeper more may be needed. Certainly rubbing compounds will help
 

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All fixed. As hoped, only an alignment was needed. Dealer did it, and charged be $104.

Left the steering wheel clamp thingy in the car...oops. I will drop it off next time I am over there.

Any suggestions on DIY buffing out the scuff on the bumper fascia?
That is amazing. Kudos to your wife for impressive spatial recognition, judgement, reflexes, and control!
 

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All fixed. As hoped, only an alignment was needed. Dealer did it, and charged be $104.

Left the steering wheel clamp thingy in the car...oops. I will drop it off next time I am over there.

Any suggestions on DIY buffing out the scuff on the bumper fascia?
Well, it’s not DIY, but if the scuff can’t be fixed with rubbing compound and waxing, try the local “dent doctor”* service. They specialize in removing minor scrapes and dings, usually at a very reasonable price. A few years ago I had a ding taken out of my front fender, and the guy that came noticed some scrapes on my bumper, and fixed them as well, in just a few minutes. When he was done I couldn’t tell where the scrapes had been.

* “dent doctor” is just my guess at the local name, there are quite a few franchises with similar names.
 

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As ib said, a picture is worth a thousand words. Might need for the painted fascia area: a little filler (scratches?), a buffer, a tube from GM service matching the paint color, some clearcoat. Sometimes a rattle can of clear will do the trick, other times not. The black wheel well surround may be difficult although I think one can get some filler stuff for that as needed. Goop like STP treatment does wonders making black plastics look uniform. All this requires time and patience.

It might look okay from 25 feet to the untrained eye. But might it bug you just knowing it’s there?... could spend a few hundred and get a professional repair good as new.
 

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Good thing it didn't get any worse than this. But kudos for tailgating ? ;)
Her accident happened in New Jersey, and in NJ people drive like maniacs and stop short like it's a bodily function.

My style of driving since moving here has evolved quite a bit to compensate for the massive volume of impatient morons on the roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The scuff appears to only have gone through the paint at the fender panel edge. There it looks like metal, but the panel is non-magnetic. I know dent pulling in aluminum is harder than in steel.

We tend to have a number of scratches and scuffs on our vehicles (the first one, like this, is always sad). When we go to a body shop **every single time** the shop has said....there is no way to fix that so it is good as new except replacing the entire panel for OEM. For a small scratch the length of the vehicle (from driving past a residential mailbox) they wanted **thousands** to replace every body panel on that side of the vehicle.

The one time I paid for touch up....it looked like a monkey had colored over the scratch with nail polish that was the wrong color.

We have Cajun red paint, and in the scuff area it is just lighter red, an area about the size of my hand. There is no denting at all (I was wondering if it was plastic). I was going to hit it with some wax or wd-40 or something. If there are microscratches, I bet the wax will fill them almost to invisibility.

And we will live with the tiny paint chip on the panel edge, esp since it will never rust.
 

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Her accident happened in New Jersey, and in NJ people drive like maniacs and stop short like it's a bodily function.

My style of driving since moving here has evolved quite a bit to compensate for the massive volume of impatient morons on the roads.
Portland traffic is quite bad, and can take an hour to travel 10 miles or less, but the motorists seem to be relatively patient. I have experimented by driving the average speed of traffic rather than bumper to bumper. This means a huge gap forms as traffic speeds up, and the gap closes as it slows down. I counted the number of people that moved in to fill that gap and subtracted out those that moved back out. In 1 hour of driving, I observed a net gain of 14 cars filling the gap ahead that I had left. That probably equates to an extra 30 seconds added to my trip compared with driving bumper to bumper, where some people still would have filled the smaller gap I leave.

Nobody behind me honked. Everyone behind was also forced to travel the average speed rather than stop and go, so their fuel economy improved. My fuel economy was 32 MPG in that slow traffic compared to 31 on the highway. Stress was greatly reduced.

Regarding the scuff; I'd leave it as a reminder to my wife to pay attention, and not to run into walls. Either that, or place a sweet sticker over it.

 

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Portland traffic is quite bad, and can take an hour to travel 10 miles or less, but the motorists seem to be relatively patient. I have experimented by driving the average speed of traffic rather than bumper to bumper. This means a huge gap forms as traffic speeds up, and the gap closes as it slows down. I counted the number of people that moved in to fill that gap and subtracted out those that moved back out. In 1 hour of driving, I observed a net gain of 14 cars filling the gap ahead that I had left. That probably equates to an extra 30 seconds added to my trip compared with driving bumper to bumper, where some people still would have filled the smaller gap I leave.

Nobody behind me honked. Everyone behind was also forced to travel the average speed rather than stop and go, so their fuel economy improved. My fuel economy was 32 MPG in that slow traffic compared to 31 on the highway. Stress was greatly reduced.
I like your thinking, logic, and patience. Three things that are completely absent in the brains of most New Jersey drivers.

I try to drive like that if I can, but it's hard when there is a critical mass of people around you driving like a-holes 24/7, haha.
 

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The scuff appears to only have gone through the paint at the fender panel edge. There it looks like metal, but the panel is non-magnetic. I know dent pulling in aluminum is harder than in steel.

We tend to have a number of scratches and scuffs on our vehicles (the first one, like this, is always sad). When we go to a body shop **every single time** the shop has said....there is no way to fix that so it is good as new except replacing the entire panel for OEM. For a small scratch the length of the vehicle (from driving past a residential mailbox) they wanted **thousands** to replace every body panel on that side of the vehicle.

The one time I paid for touch up....it looked like a monkey had colored over the scratch with nail polish that was the wrong color.

We have Cajun red paint, and in the scuff area it is just lighter red, an area about the size of my hand. There is no denting at all (I was wondering if it was plastic). I was going to hit it with some wax or wd-40 or something. If there are microscratches, I bet the wax will fill them almost to invisibility.

And we will live with the tiny paint chip on the panel edge, esp since it will never rust.

There is a couple ways to touch up the chips and scratches. Dr Color Chip- https://www.drcolorchip.com/ makes kit that works well and matches paint exactly. I've used this recently on hood chips on my Bolt EV which is also Cajun Red.

Also there are a couple Vendors like https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ & https://touchupdirect.com/ that will match your paint. I've also used both in the past with good results.



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