Any other reports of front wheel bearing failures? I have a growing wheel bearing noise, originally I thought it might be the gear case, that the dealer diagnosed. They are ordering the part, and will replace it next week. There is ~22,500 miles on my 2017 Bolt... Seems early for a wheel bearing failure...
front wheel bearing failures?
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They are sealed bearing hubs, pressed together on a high speed line, where they pay little attention that the correct amount of grease being shot in them.
These things are a crap shoot, some last forever some a few thousand miles, they are non greaseable and doomed to fail.
These things are a crap shoot, some last forever some a few thousand miles, they are non greaseable and doomed to fail.
Huh. I knew that bicycles had gone to sealed bearings. Next thing you will tell me we can no longer rebuild spark plugs.
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I have a trash can that can do wonders for used spark plugs, used spark plugs are great for practicing your throwing skills that is all they are good for.
Out to lunch, and a hike, on this beatiful 73 F day, in February. Came off a back road, onto Rt 15, at. Dillwyn, and the car started to shake, like a wheel was loose. Pulled in a sawmill parking lot. Right front disc is hot, all others cold. About 50 miles back, coming out of Farmville, I thought I heard a very faint sound, like a high pitched chirping, just twice. Waitng for the rollback. These electric cars never need. Service. Lol
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We know you post in frustration and jest. There are the electrics and then there's the car. All cars are subject to running gear problems, wear and replacement; some just randomly sooner than others. You're in VA; do they salt the roads in your area? Those in climates in states where FUD exceeds common sense and the resultant toxic chemicals poured on the roads eat cars and flora; brake problems sooner.
jack vines
Yeah. Just one data point, but we have been driving Japanese cars since 1972, and never once have been left on the side of the road. This Chevy has been on a rollback twice, in 51K miles.
Nope. The brake calipers and discs would pass for new. They will spray brine on, if we are going to get a once a year ice storm. This car has never been out in bad driving conditions. We are retired, and barely drive after dark anymore.
I wouldn't think a dragging brake would make the steering wheel shake. Should know tomorrow.
OK. The dealer service manager called this afternoon, said the parts had been replaced, and the fluid flushed and replaced, and it was good as new. Neighbor drives me to the shop. I talk with the service manager, pay my bill...$900+...just happy to have the Bolt back. I head off to the Sheetz, to finish the charging experiment I was planning, when the Bolt took a dump on Wednesday. I am hyper aware of the steering, and everything is as smooth a glass going the 21 miles down Rt 15 at 55 mph. I charge from 11.4% DIC to 51% DIC, taking lots of screen shots. I help out a guy who just got a plug-in Chrysler Pacifica van, and thinks he can charge it there. I set him up with PlugShare , and explain the different plug types, and he heads off. I hop on the interstate and head home at 73 mph. About a mile before I get off at our exit, I feel the steering wheel shake. I don't feel it the rest of the way home, on the secondary roads. I pull in the garage, and get out to touch the discs. First one I touch is the driver's side front. It is scalding hot! The new setup, on the front passenger's side is cold. The rear right is warm, and the rear left is cold. I go in and get my VOM with the thermistor. The driver's side disc is 220 F. The right front is 70 F, rear right is 81 F, rear left is 69 F. WTF!?
I didn't suspect the brakes the first time, because they are like new, and the fluid was so clear you needed a flashlight to see it. That's why I suspected a wheel bearing. But they were sure it was a bad caliper. Clearly, there is something else causing the brakes to screw up. I am imagining the traction control has somehow lost its mind, but wouldn't that throw a code? I've never owned a car with brakes run by a computer before.
I figure I will call them first thing Monday and fill them in. I have no interest in replacing parts one at a time until they stumble on the problem. I am going to tell them to call GM tech support. Does that sound reasonable to anybody else?
I didn't suspect the brakes the first time, because they are like new, and the fluid was so clear you needed a flashlight to see it. That's why I suspected a wheel bearing. But they were sure it was a bad caliper. Clearly, there is something else causing the brakes to screw up. I am imagining the traction control has somehow lost its mind, but wouldn't that throw a code? I've never owned a car with brakes run by a computer before.
I figure I will call them first thing Monday and fill them in. I have no interest in replacing parts one at a time until they stumble on the problem. I am going to tell them to call GM tech support. Does that sound reasonable to anybody else?
I was searching the web this morning looking for possible causes for our second stuck caliper within 30 miles. There were no codes thrown, so I am going to assume the problem has nothing to do with ABS, or brake pedal sensor, etc. Is it possible that having a new caliper, pads, and disc, on the right caused a slight change in brake piston pressure/movement from right to left, causing the left piston to now stick? Anyway, there was this.
autoprollc.com
Why Replace Both Calipers When Just One Goes Bad?
Why Replace Both Calipers When Just One Goes Bad? Andrew Markel, Brake & Front End Magazine Are you ever doing the customer a favor by just replacing one caliper? The thing that you have to keep in mind is that both calipers, on a front or a rear have both traveled the same
autoprollc.com
Someone with more knowledge is going to have to chime in here, but... That post compares replacing a single caliper to replacing brake pads on only one wheel - but that seems like a false equivalence to me because brake pads are a wear item whose thickness chances with use and calipers are not.Anyway, there was this.
Why Replace Both Calipers When Just One Goes Bad?
Why Replace Both Calipers When Just One Goes Bad? Andrew Markel, Brake & Front End Magazine Are you ever doing the customer a favor by just replacing one caliper? The thing that you have to keep in mind is that both calipers, on a front or a rear have both traveled the same
I do recall the service tech at the Mazda dealership suggested both front calipers being replaced, when one was hanging up due to corrosion. My 2006 Mazda was maybe 6-8 years old, and the thinking may also have been that the other side was getting just as corroded.
He actually brought me back to my Mazda 3 up on the rack, to show me, which I appreciated. I didn't have to just trust the service advisor. This wasn't a surprising repair, being this was my daily here in Minnesota, and I wasn't retired yet. Although I suppose with some pre emptive maintenance I could have avoided it.
Reading the article @GJETSON linked, I can see the logic to doing both calipers. Especially in the conditions I experience in Minnesota. Calipers are a wear item too, what with the piston(s), seals, and slider mechanism. And I can see how it's important they operate with an equal amount of ease too. And with something as important as brakes, I'd err on the safe side anyway.
We sold our 2006 Mazda 3 stick, to a friend after getting our 2018 Volt. She got a few good years out of it before it spun a bearing at about 180k miles. It was pretty rusty at that point too, so she junked it. I'm glad we sold it for as cheap as we did, we're still friends.
Taking the Bolt in to get the other brake replaced tomorrow. They said they would normally suggest replacing both, but because they were like new, they figured it was just a defective caliper/piston.
Who knew GM was using Yugo parts?
Let us know if that fixes it. And hopefully the replacement calipers aren't new old stock Yugo parts either.Taking the Bolt in to get the other brake replaced tomorrow. They said they would normally suggest replacing both, but because they were like new, they figured it was just a defective caliper/piston.
Who knew GM was using Yugo parts?
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