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This is quite upsetting to hear... no savings with an EV if we have to pay for a new EVSE yearly...
 

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My cheap $300 Mustart is doing fine after 13 months. Although now you guys are making me worry. Maybe I'll start taking temperature measurements during a charge cycle.

Mike
 

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My cheap $300 Mustart is doing fine after 13 months. Although now you guys are making me worry. Maybe I'll start taking temperature measurements during a charge cycle.

Mike
The after market unit I bought shows the unit's temperature. On idle, it shows 109F in 90F ambient temp. I think it goes up to 125F while charging.
 

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The question is why that JuiceBox unit fails after 2 years. I guess if you install an OpenEVSE, you may want to oversize the wires... if that was the reason the JuiceBox fried.

There is another generic EVSE on eBay that is 32A but lets you change A by changing the plug... Perhaps one could buy that unit and then run it at 16A or 24A...
 

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I could not find any claim that Juicebox was UL or CE lab tested. It is true that anyone can stamp the letters "UL" or "CE" on anything. Before paying a large sum of money, look for a UL or CE label. Better yet, make sure the manufacturer did not cheat: Be aware that there is a difference between listed and certified
See: Is it UL Certified? | Thayer Lighting
 

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"We were very pleased to announce UL certification for JuiceBox, particularly given the new product includes a variety of other enhancements such as: front LED status indicators, low-profile high-gain antenna, and upgraded internals for improved performance and reliability."

 

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I could not find any claim that Juicebox was UL or CE lab tested. It is true that anyone can stamp the letters "UL" or "CE" on anything. Before paying a large sum of money, look for a UL or CE label. Better yet, make sure the manufacturer did not cheat: Be aware that there is a difference between listed and certified
See: Is it UL Certified? | Thayer Lighting
See page 3, message 51 of this thread. The linked enel x web page itself includes a link to UL to look up the actual certification.
 

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I never paid for an EVSE in the first place because I'm using the one that came with the car on a 240V circuit...
But you're not getting the full 6.6kW of L2 charging, correct?
 

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But you're not getting the full 6.6kW of L2 charging, correct?
Correct, the OEM charging cord gives me ~2.8kW at 240V, which I've found to be easily more than I need. It's enough to recover around 200 km (~125 miles) worth of charge ovenright.

The only time it's an issue is if I have to travel from home more than around 500 km (>300 miles) on two consecutive days, because I start with a "hilltop reserve" charge of around 87% on the first day. On the very rare occasions when that happens (only once or twice in the past 2-1/2 years) I go to a DC fast charger in the evening to bring the battery up to around 50-60% of charge so that it can complete overnight at home.
 

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Update!

Actually, after the smoke cleared, i plugged the car back in by running the plug cable out to the driveway. The plug from my Juicebox40 into the wall receptacle started smoking right away. It is melted and charred. Good news, the Bolt is fine. Bad news, my charger almost burned my house down. Any insights anyone? Thanks to Mike for his quick help
Of interest, could you post pictures of the plug?

Here are some examples from this and Tesla site
 

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Which reminds me, for all the newcomers all plug-in EVSEs 50 amps and less in garages must be controlled by GFCI breakers. Hard wired not. Please don't shoot the messenger, I didn't write the codes. If your jurisdiction exempts you do it anyway. Love to see you all here to post for years to come.
 

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Which reminds me, for all the newcomers all plug-in EVSEs 50 amps and less in garages must be controlled by GFCI breakers. Hard wired not. Please don't shoot the messenger, I didn't write the codes. If your jurisdiction exempts you do it anyway. Love to see you all here to post for years to come.
And some evse manufacturers are telling purchasers their units should be supplied by circuits without GFCI breakers, only adding to the confusion.
 

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Wow. I've had a Clipper Creek that I bought in 2013 for my C-Max, and now use on the Bolt, and have not had any problems - ever. It is only a 20 Amp EVSE, and in Florida I used it on a 20 Amp circuit as the C-Max could only draw 16 amps. Here in California, I have it on the 30 amp dryer circuit. I thought of getting a Juice Box for the smart functions, but think I will just stick with what works for now.
 

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Well, if you want to get a new EVSE, perhaps Amazon may have some good deals Q4 this year.

 

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Had my plug and outlet fail yesterday. 2 year old ChargePoint with new NEMA 14-50 outlet. I suspect loose crimps on the chargepoint plug or electrician installed outlet.

Last 4 weeks the garage has been a little warmer (90F) for night time charging. Also have had about 2, longer(7 hours) sessions of charging per week.

Will install new parts. I think this is why hard-wiring a charger is better so that you can eliminate this connection point.

No smoke, just a sizzling sound at outlet when first plugging in chargepoint cord to wall.

30471
30472
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Sorry for not closing the loop on the story. I had my electrician replace the plug (at my cost) and Juicebox was replaced under warranty. the Juicebox guys were quick authorize replacement and sent a new unit out right away. Case closed.

P.S. I installed a smoke detector 6 inches above the plug. Just in case. I know, it wont help if no one is home
 

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Had my plug and outlet fail yesterday. 2 year old ChargePoint with new NEMA 14-50 outlet. I suspect loose crimps on the chargepoint plug or electrician installed outlet.

Last 4 weeks the garage has been a little warmer (90F) for night time charging. Also have had about 2, longer(7 hours) sessions of charging per week.

Will install new parts. I think this is why hard-wiring a charger is better so that you can eliminate this connection point.

No smoke, just a sizzling sound at outlet when first plugging in chargepoint cord to wall.

View attachment 30471 View attachment 30472 :)
what brand is that outlet? i cant quite make it out.
I purchased what i hope was a higher quality Nema 6-50 when i did mine (hubbell/bryant?); but i really dont know how it will hold up over time. I know i looked at the leviton's and was like "nope".

P.S. your outlet is a nema 6-50 by the way, not a 14-50, so if replacing, make sure you get the correct one.

Hard to tell, but in my very untrained eyes, it appears your issue was caused more from the plug than the recepticle wire overheating. Anyone with knowledge have insight just from looking at the melt points?
edit: eh, maybe not now that i look more closely.
 
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