I too have about 1800 miles. The HVAC is off other than the fan.
I try to look at the remaining bars on the "fuel" gauge. You have to watch when the previous high bar ticks off though to get a good feel of remaining battery. Twenty bars for 60 kWh makes out to 3 kWh per bar. Your gauge in your picture I think shows 5 bars or 15 kWh left. But like a gas tank one shouldn't consider the last bar useable. From your picture, I don't know how long you have driven on the high bar so I'll subtract that one bar and the last bar so that's 3 bars of useable battery or 9 kWh. Then you can watch your actual miles per kWh on the infotainment system (edit: or the trip meter as you reset it). Since you're using the heater for your feet in the picture, I'll assume 3 miles/kWh (edit: pic has 2.9) so you have 27 miles left where your GOM says 49 (little blurry).
Sorry. You battery, or the BMS software, is screwed up. You should, in fact, be able to count on the last bar as being accurate. If, like dfwpev, and gern_blanston, you find your range/battery capacity going from 2 or 3 bars to nothing in a few miles, you need to report this to GM ASAP, to get to the bottom of this problem.
Yes, this is exactly right. My vehicle will track down to a single flashing orange bar. Each bar represents 5% of your overall battery capacity, and when my last bar is flashing orange, my car still has between 0% and 5% capacity.
It makes me wonder if he hasn't had the battery management software updated...
As others have said, this isn't how it's supposed to work.
Yes, I saw what you are describing. It actually began at about 10% SOC maybe 8 miles from home. I had passed over a grade which requires up to 50 kWh for a few seconds to maintain 65 mph then it tappers back to the 15-20 kWh cruise leading into a like grade down where it will actually regen at 65 mph. I was prompted to enter a low energy state when the speed dropped. My infotainment screen went dark as I recall, this happened in November 2018 and I was confused as to how and why. My last check, a small town 19 miles from home, where I might plug in for a few miles range, my SOC was 20% or about 12 kWh, I was feeling anxious but comfortable. I've noticed you, and A better route planner, run down into the 5-10 % range to a charge station.
My 7500 mile service is coming up next week, I'll bring it up to the dealership but I value this group's experience.
Balancing a cell to 4 volts would never be done at 12 volts. That would be a pointless waste of energy requiring a huge bleed-off resistor. It would be done at 4 volts. The voltage difference between a cell, and a proper charger is a fraction of a volt at every point in the charge cycle. The reason for not sitting at 100% or 0%, for any length of time, is because of damage caused from stresses to the electrode coatings when filled or empty. At sensible 1C charge rates, tapering to near zero at the end, it is not the applied voltage causing most damage. In fact, the damage will occur even while sitting unplugged. Unlike hobby LiPo cells, GM never allows charging to 4.2 volt/100%. The highest voltage will be 4.19x. And at the low end they will tell you you are done at 3.2xx volts, which is much more conservative than the top. This is because, with top balancing, any difference in cell capacity shows up at the bottom of discharge.
