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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a used 2017 Bolt with 27k mile at an ev-only used car dealership on Saturday, worked flawlessly for four days. On Wednesday when I went to use it in the morning, it gave me the “Conditions not correct for shift” screen and won't drive. I'm at a loss. I guess I have to take it in to a Chevrolet dealer but I'm concerned because only the powertrain and main battery are still under warranty and I have no idea what is causing this. I am going to dump a bunch of details below in case anyone want to take a crack at trying to figure out what's going on. Many of the details may be irrelevant but I figure more information is better than neglecting some salient detail.

Background information:
  • I've had car four days, was on used car dealer lot before then, they got it at an auction of off-lease vehicles, so it was probably sitting for some time.
  • 2017 Bolt LT with 27,000 miles
  • Had 160 miles of range Tuesday night
  • have not charged it since I bought it Saturday
  • Wednesday morning screen says “battery low” with 11 miles of range
  • When I use the OBDII, it says the battery is still at 69% and the health of the battery health seems good. Max voltage of a cell is only .1 greater than the lowest. The size of the battery is 55.1 kWh, which seems a pretty normal level of degradation from the original 57-60 that it had when new.

Concerning messages on the driver screen
  • there is an initializing screen to start - not sure if that was happening before
  • "Propulsion power is reduced"
  • service vehicle soon light is on (the icon with the exclamation point through the car)
  • “Conditions not correct for shift”
  • “unable to charge” in red with green image of charger (I haven’t tried charging it)
  • “service transmission”

concerning behavior
  • won't go into gear
  • seems to turn right back on after I turn it off unless I get out of the car

OBD2 codes
  • P1E00
  • P1B78
  • U156D
  • B3110 (transmitter low battery)
  • B3935
  • U1559

Things I've tried
  • disconnected the 12v battery for a few minutes, reconnected it
  • installed a new (but not identical) 12v battery
  • replaced the battery in my key fob (error codes B3110 referred to low battery)
None of these had any impact on the messages displayed or functionality of the car. I put the original 12v battery back in after it was clear the new one didn't change anything.

Thoughts
Searching “Conditions not correct for shift” on this and another forum, it seems this might have something to do with the 12 volt battery, a relay, a fuse, faulty cells in the propulsion battery, the "manual disconnect" (whatever that is), the shifter, a ghost in the machine (many people describe having the issue and then it mysteriously going away on its own). Any advice or thoughts? Please tell me this is something simple and I just made a stupid mistake.
 

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2021 Bolt Premier
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After 20+ years of EV ownership, I can say with great confidence that the most common cause for "strange" behavior in these vehicles is a weak 12V PbA auxiliary battery. It's why I hook mine up to a smart charger/maintainer at least once every 60 days or so. Just be sure that the maintainer is made for AGM PbA batteries. Their charge profile can be slightly different that run-of-the-mill PbAs

I recommend having your 12V auxiliary battery load tested. Heck, if it's still the original one, it's at least four years old, and who knows how it's been treated in the interim. I'd probably buy a new one anyway.

Also, another practice I've adopted is to climb in the vehicle and start it very first thing. Then close the door, adjust the seats and mirrors etc., put on the seat belt, hook up the phone, and anything else that needs to be done before driving off. Changing the order of getting ready to drive off gives the vehicle time to boot up. There's probably a dozen or more processors that have to agree that everything's ready to go. It's akin to the Flight Director of a rocket launch: ..."Propulsion?"..."GO"..."Climate Control?"..."GO"...etc.

If you try to switch the vehicle into gear before it's done booting up, mayhem might ensue. You can potentially fix this, not necessarily by taking longer, but by changing the order in which you do things.
 

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the "manual disconnect" (whatever that is)
under the rear seat there's a manually operated switch that contains a fuse. the fuse going bad can potentially cause what you're seeing. the 12V battery is low hanging fruit as GregBrew suggested.

Welcome to the forum. Hope you figure it out.
 

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After 20+ years of EV ownership, I can say with great confidence that the most common cause for "strange" behavior in these vehicles is a weak 12V PbA auxiliary battery. It's why I hook mine up to a smart charger/maintainer at least once every 60 days or so. Just be sure that the maintainer is made for AGM PbA batteries. Their charge profile can be slightly different that run-of-the-mill PbAs

I recommend having your 12V auxiliary battery load tested. Heck, if it's still the original one, it's at least four years old, and who knows how it's been treated in the interim. I'd probably buy a new one anyway.
Greg is totally right here, these are classic bad battery symptoms.

Also, another practice I've adopted is to climb in the vehicle and start it very first thing. Then close the door, adjust the seats and mirrors etc., put on the seat belt, hook up the phone, and anything else that needs to be done before driving off. Changing the order of getting ready to drive off gives the vehicle time to boot up. There's probably a dozen or more processors that have to agree that everything's ready to go. It's akin to the Flight Director of a rocket launch: ..."Propulsion?"..."GO"..."Climate Control?"..."GO"...etc.

If you try to switch the vehicle into gear before it's done booting up, mayhem might ensue. You can potentially fix this, not necessarily by taking longer, but by changing the order in which you do things.
I think this is a little paranoid. Because of all the computers etc., modern cars start booting etc. way before you press the start button. The car knows you’re close when you walk up with your key in your pocket, and certainly once you open the door and get in. So it has a few seconds in hand getting its computational act together before you press the button.

(You can get a “conditions not right for shift“ message though if you get your own start sequence wrong and wiggle the shifter before you’ve pressed the start button. That happens to me occasionally when my own driving boot up sequence has apparently not completed correctly.)
 

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OP said they tried a brand new 12 V battery, so while the sudden appearance of many codes suggests that route, it would seem they’ve already eliminated that potential issue. Aside from that, I’m afraid there’s not much easy stuff to be done aside from getting it to a dealer.
 

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It would be worth measuring the 12 v battery values to make sure it is at least 12 V, even if it is a new battery. Beyond that the advice of getting to a dealer is probably the next step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After 20+ years of EV ownership, I can say with great confidence that the most common cause for "strange" behavior in these vehicles is a weak 12V PbA auxiliary battery. It's why I hook mine up to a smart charger/maintainer at least once every 60 days or so. Just be sure that the maintainer is made for AGM PbA batteries. Their charge profile can be slightly different that run-of-the-mill PbAs

I recommend having your 12V auxiliary battery load tested. Heck, if it's still the original one, it's at least four years old, and who knows how it's been treated in the interim. I'd probably buy a new one anyway.

If you try to switch the vehicle into gear before it's done booting up, mayhem might ensue. You can potentially fix this, not necessarily by taking longer, but by changing the order in which you do things.
Thanks for this. On your recommendation I bought a load tester and smart charger/maintainer at Harbor Freight. The load tester says the battery is weak and the smart charger/maintainer says the battery is currently at 10% capacity. So this is actually good news - a 12v battery replacement is something I should be able to do myself.

I am interested if anyone knows what to look for in a replacement 12v battery. The Autozone/O'Reilly's/Napa's around here don't carry an identical AC Delco AGM battery. Somewhat desperate, I tried a Napa Legend Premium which is not AGM and has a lower CCA (450 vs 520 in the original) and this did not fix the problem. Maybe I can get something close to the original if I call around. Does it make sense that the Napa battery wouldn't be a good enough match? Here's the link: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NAL8499R
 

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Did I understand that the car is showing 11 miles of range and you have not charged it?

I could be wrong about any of this, but:

The car has a number of things it does in a "low battery" condition. Perhaps not running the DC/DC converter is one of them. In that case the car is trying to run all of the electronics off the 12v battery. Of course, if the 12v battery is weak this would not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did I understand that the car is showing 11 miles of range and you have not charged it?

I could be wrong about any of this, but:

The car has a number of things it does in a "low battery" condition. Perhaps not running the DC/DC converter is one of them. In that case the car is trying to run all of the electronics off the 12v battery. Of course, if the 12v battery is weak this would not work.
Interesting. Yes it shows 11 miles of range, but I don't believe it because the OBD2 shows the battery at 70% and that's where it was I retired it the night before. But you're right, it seems to think it is low and maybe this aggravated the old 12v battery problem. If so, that's might not be great new for me because I'd have to figure out what made it think the traction battery was low. I'm crossing my fingers the AC Delco AGM battery replacement another poster recommended solves it.
 

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Not exactly the same but I had something similar happen.

I tried a fast charging station for the first time ever on my 2017 earlier this week at electrify america. I plugged it in and paid. Got an error about unable to initialize charging. Got in my car and got the conditions not correct for shift error. Had never seen this error before trying to fast charge. I tried multiple times, same error. I got out of the car and let it sit 30 minutes and tried again and got it into gear but then the orange battery icon with an exclamation point showed up. Hit the onstar button and they did a diagnostic and said my car has a lithium battery issue and to not drive it and go to a service center immediately. Call chevy and the first appointment was 3 weeks. Decided to just drive my car the rest of the day and the light went off eventually and it hasnt been back on since (4 days now). If it comes back I'll take it into chevy but it seems like for me the fast charge caused some software issue temporarily.
 

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Bought a used 2017 Bolt with 27k mile at an ev-only used car dealership on Saturday, worked flawlessly for four days. On Wednesday when I went to use it in the morning, it gave me the “Conditions not correct for shift” screen and won't drive. I'm at a loss. I guess I have to take it in to a Chevrolet dealer but I'm concerned because only the powertrain and main battery are still under warranty and I have no idea what is causing this. I am going to dump a bunch of details below in case anyone want to take a crack at trying to figure out what's going on. Many of the details may be irrelevant but I figure more information is better than neglecting some salient detail.

Background information:
  • I've had car four days, was on used car dealer lot before then, they got it at an auction of off-lease vehicles, so it was probably sitting for some time.
  • 2017 Bolt LT with 27,000 miles
  • Had 160 miles of range Tuesday night
  • have not charged it since I bought it Saturday
  • Wednesday morning screen says “battery low” with 11 miles of range
  • When I use the OBDII, it says the battery is still at 69% and the health of the battery health seems good. Max voltage of a cell is only .1 greater than the lowest. The size of the battery is 55.1 kWh, which seems a pretty normal level of degradation from the original 57-60 that it had when new.

Concerning messages on the driver screen
  • there is an initializing screen to start - not sure if that was happening before
  • "Propulsion power is reduced"
  • service vehicle soon light is on (the icon with the exclamation point through the car)
  • “Conditions not correct for shift”
  • “unable to charge” in red with green image of charger (I haven’t tried charging it)
  • “service transmission”

concerning behavior
  • won't go into gear
  • seems to turn right back on after I turn it off unless I get out of the car

OBD2 codes
  • P1E00
  • P1B78
  • U156D
  • B3110 (transmitter low battery)
  • B3935
  • U1559

Things I've tried
  • disconnected the 12v battery for a few minutes, reconnected it
  • installed a new (but not identical) 12v battery
  • replaced the battery in my key fob (error codes B3110 referred to low battery)
None of these had any impact on the messages displayed or functionality of the car. I put the original 12v battery back in after it was clear the new one didn't change anything.

Thoughts
Searching “Conditions not correct for shift” on this and another forum, it seems this might have something to do with the 12 volt battery, a relay, a fuse, faulty cells in the propulsion battery, the "manual disconnect" (whatever that is), the shifter, a ghost in the machine (many people describe having the issue and then it mysteriously going away on its own). Any advice or thoughts? Please tell me this is something simple and I just made a stupid mistake.
My car just did this a few days after getting the software recall installed. Ended up getting the massive battery replaced under GM’s standard EV warranty. The **** thing weighed 1100 pounds.
 

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My car just did this a few days after getting the software recall installed. Ended up getting the massive battery replaced under GM’s standard EV warranty. The **** thing weighed 1100 pounds.
If you call the GM concierge 800 number they will tow it for free for you to your dealer. This all has to do with the battery recall. And likely your car and the software update preformed just before you buy it
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you call the GM concierge 800 number they will tow it for free for you to your dealer. This all has to do with the battery recall. And likely your car and the software update preformed just before you buy it
Thanks for this! I did not know about the 1-833-EVCHEVY number. I called them and they are going to have someone from their California office get in touch with me. Sounds like they will reimburse me the cost of the tow, which I wasn't expecting. I hope you are right and this has to do with the battery recall. That would be great. Crossing my fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My car just did this a few days after getting the software recall installed. Ended up getting the massive battery replaced under GM’s standard EV warranty. The **** thing weighed 1100 pounds.
Took it to the dealer today and it looks like this was my problem too. Apparently section five of the battery failed. Thankfully it is covered by the warranty. What a relief.
 

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Took it to the dealer today and it looks like this was my problem too. Apparently section five of the battery failed. Thankfully it is covered by the warranty. What a relief.
A cell in section 5 failed, one of 18 x 3 = 54 cells in that section directly under the back seat cushion. The "cells" are actually 3 cells in a group, hooked together in parallel.

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