Having this trailer allowed me to sell my van. The kids are older and the van really isn't needed any more. I was hanging on to the van mainly because I often have to move pinball machines. Other than the occasional pinball move or trip to the hardware store for something big, the van sat most of the last year after I bought the Bolt. I finally figured that it was time to get rid of the van and work something else out. With the van gone I love having the space back in the driveway, plus no more maintenance, insurance and property taxes on it. Now the only ICE vehicle I own is my daughter's car. I enjoyed giving the van's new owner all the extra oil, ATF, and power steering fluid I had on the shelf. Good riddance!
I used the Draw-Tite Class I hitch from CARiD. The've since dropped the price about $25 from when I ordered it. I went with this hitch because I liked the fact that the tongue weight limit is 200 lb. I also liked that it had angled brackets to prevent the receiver from bending down under load as I've seen people report that using a bike rack has bent some other hitches down.
www.carid.com
When using the Draw-Tite hitch you need 3 inches of rise to the ball.
I used the 1090 lb Haul-Master trailer from Harbor Freight, Item #62665. I needed something compact that I could store in my shop. I don't usually haul large items, so this little trailer fit the bill.
www.harborfreight.com
One thing I learned is since the Bolt has separate tail/brake/turn signals you need to use a converter and can't get by with simply splicing into the harness to run the lights on this trailer. This is due to the trailer having shared brake/turn/tail lights and not individual turn signal lights. I used a Hopkins #48895 converter from AutoZone, it was $25. The interesting thing is this converter does not need a separate 12v supply, just a connection to ground. This makes things easier since you don't have to tap into or run 12v back to the converter. It says it will work with both LED and incandescent lights. Who knows, it works, it was easy, it was at the store right down the street, and it was inexpensive.
I used jsftam's instructions to wire in the converter found here:
www.chevybolt.org
Many thanks to him for making this much easier.
I don't know how you other guys managed to tie into the bumper wiring harness for the turn signal wires without completely removing the lower left side panel. I ended up loosening the side airbag (after removing the 12v from the car battery), moving the lower back seat forward, popping out but not removing the left seat back, and then loosening the entire lower left side panel. This let me get to the bumper wiring harness from the passenger side door, which seemed much easier.
Some of the panel clips were a bear to get loose. I did break one clip mounting tab off the left side panel. And I had to re-bend the little teeth on several of the clips after removing the panels. I hope I never have to remove the panels again, I think the plastic is stressed enough after this removal that if I have to do it again more tabs might break off.
For removal of the side airbag, you slide the rear seat forward or remove it, loosen the lower airbag retaining nut (13 mm), then push up on the airbag and pull towards you.
My car is a Premier, so I had to remove the left side false floor bracket to get the lower left panel loose (two 10mm bolts).
The bed on this trailer is a little over 40" wide and is 48" long. This means you can make the deck from a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood and have enough left over to make four side panels.
Below you can see the trailer with no side panels, this is how I'll transport pinball machines. I haven't put a game on it yet so I don't have a pic of that. My next venture is loading and strapping down a game to see how well that works. I can't foresee there being any problems.
Here it is with the removable side panels. I have the brackets installed so that I can cinch the sides together with carriage bolts and wing nuts to make everything secure, but easy to take apart. The side panels are pretty solid when everything is tightened down.
Here you can see it stored in my shop, side panels and all. Doesn't take up much space.
If you want to store this trailer on end like I'm doing you have to install the tail light brackets the other way around from how the instructions say. If you don't the lights will stick out behind the trailer and you can't set it up on its rear.
Finally, here's the Bolt with it ready to go.
I used the Draw-Tite Class I hitch from CARiD. The've since dropped the price about $25 from when I ordered it. I went with this hitch because I liked the fact that the tongue weight limit is 200 lb. I also liked that it had angled brackets to prevent the receiver from bending down under load as I've seen people report that using a bike rack has bent some other hitches down.

Draw-Tite® - Class 1 Sportframe Trailer Hitch with 1-1/4" Receiver Opening
Chevy Bolt EV 2017, Class 1 Sportframe Rear Trailer Hitch with 1-1/4" Receiver Opening by Draw-Tite®. Limited Lifetime Warranty. The Weight Carrying Capacity is 2000 lbs, while the Tongue Weight is 200 lbs,

When using the Draw-Tite hitch you need 3 inches of rise to the ball.
I used the 1090 lb Haul-Master trailer from Harbor Freight, Item #62665. I needed something compact that I could store in my shop. I don't usually haul large items, so this little trailer fit the bill.

1090 lb. Capacity 40-1/2 in x 48 in Utility Trailer
1090 lb. Capacity 40-1/2 in x 48 in Utility Trailer
One thing I learned is since the Bolt has separate tail/brake/turn signals you need to use a converter and can't get by with simply splicing into the harness to run the lights on this trailer. This is due to the trailer having shared brake/turn/tail lights and not individual turn signal lights. I used a Hopkins #48895 converter from AutoZone, it was $25. The interesting thing is this converter does not need a separate 12v supply, just a connection to ground. This makes things easier since you don't have to tap into or run 12v back to the converter. It says it will work with both LED and incandescent lights. Who knows, it works, it was easy, it was at the store right down the street, and it was inexpensive.

I used jsftam's instructions to wire in the converter found here:

Trailer lights
I have added a hitch and want to tow a kayak trailer. I've added the lighting converter for a few vehicles before, but I'm nervous about poking around for the required +12 and turn signal, brake (if separate from turn signals) and running lights. Anyone accomplished this and have advice...
I don't know how you other guys managed to tie into the bumper wiring harness for the turn signal wires without completely removing the lower left side panel. I ended up loosening the side airbag (after removing the 12v from the car battery), moving the lower back seat forward, popping out but not removing the left seat back, and then loosening the entire lower left side panel. This let me get to the bumper wiring harness from the passenger side door, which seemed much easier.
Some of the panel clips were a bear to get loose. I did break one clip mounting tab off the left side panel. And I had to re-bend the little teeth on several of the clips after removing the panels. I hope I never have to remove the panels again, I think the plastic is stressed enough after this removal that if I have to do it again more tabs might break off.
For removal of the side airbag, you slide the rear seat forward or remove it, loosen the lower airbag retaining nut (13 mm), then push up on the airbag and pull towards you.
My car is a Premier, so I had to remove the left side false floor bracket to get the lower left panel loose (two 10mm bolts).
The bed on this trailer is a little over 40" wide and is 48" long. This means you can make the deck from a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood and have enough left over to make four side panels.
Below you can see the trailer with no side panels, this is how I'll transport pinball machines. I haven't put a game on it yet so I don't have a pic of that. My next venture is loading and strapping down a game to see how well that works. I can't foresee there being any problems.
Here it is with the removable side panels. I have the brackets installed so that I can cinch the sides together with carriage bolts and wing nuts to make everything secure, but easy to take apart. The side panels are pretty solid when everything is tightened down.
Here you can see it stored in my shop, side panels and all. Doesn't take up much space.
If you want to store this trailer on end like I'm doing you have to install the tail light brackets the other way around from how the instructions say. If you don't the lights will stick out behind the trailer and you can't set it up on its rear.
Finally, here's the Bolt with it ready to go.