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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
It doesn't happen that way
Range at the bottom of the charge is cut off by the sag of the single lowest cell group dropping below value. If the car has one cell group with less capacity than the rest, the maximum range will be reduced. But I don't know if this would immediately show up on the guessometer. It might take a few cycles to a deep discharge to be displayed that way.
 

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Just want to put something out there regarding the common courtesy of charging, it's not always as easy as you think. When I purchased my Kona EV I was shocked to find out the #1 EV seller in my state didn't have a L2 charger at the dealership itself and the service center wasn't directly attached. For this courtesy they were trying to delay closing on my car by a day because they were literally doing L1 dealer preps.

$5-$15 max in electricity isn't worth caring about, I had to be like, "No really, I'm not coming back at a less convenient time just because you feel awkward selling me a car with 60%"

They're making $2,000-$4,000 off of you, they're really really not trying to rob you over 9kw @ .10/kWh
 

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Normally I would be concerned with battery health and would use Torque Pro to help evaluate. I'd give almost no credibility to what the GOM is saying except as a very crude ballpark of health. That said, I'd not worry one bit about battery condition on the Bolt since it's under warranty and is likely to get a new battery well before problems arise with the current one.

Negotiated price would pretty much be my only concern.

So, you're finally getting one? Looks like I'm the last holdout.
 

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I am going to try to get torque configured tonight (too bad it is not a ready made install like LeafSpy), and go over tomorrow to scan the car before I sign on Wednesday.
Yeah, figuring out how to load the PIDs and then mucking around with adding gauges is cumbersome. It's also what makes it highly customizable. Seems there's no getting around those tradeoffs.
 

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OP - as a current owner I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere. While the odds of my car bursting into flames is low, it remains an existential threat and is always in the back of your mind. Added to this the guidance to not let charge drop below 70 estimated miles (about 20%) the usable available capacity is degraded.

it’s just not worth it and they will talk about you at the dealership for years after you drive off.

just my 2 cents
 

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OP - as a current owner I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere. While the odds of my car bursting into flames is low, it remains an existential threat and is always in the back of your mind. Added to this the guidance to not let charge drop below 70 estimated miles (about 20%) the usable available capacity is degraded.

it’s just not worth it and they will talk about you at the dealership for years after you drive off.

just my 2 cents
Yes but the adrenaline rush from fear has to be worth more than 2 cents? Frankly Chevy should be charging you more for that alive feeling you have right now. That cup of coffee tastes that much better, because GM made it so.
 

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OP - as a current owner I would strongly suggest you look elsewhere. While the odds of my car bursting into flames is low, it remains an existential threat and is always in the back of your mind. Added to this the guidance to not let charge drop below 70 estimated miles (about 20%) the usable available capacity is degraded.

it’s just not worth it and they will talk about you at the dealership for years after you drive off.
Sendler is a long time member here and is aware of the happenings. He also rides a motorcycle, so he and death are good pals.
 

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This is outside of the questions you asked, but is fast charging important to you? If so, check to make sure it has fast charging. People have bought non-quick charging Bolts not realizing not all Bolts had fast charging. It was a $750 option on the 2017 cars. Upgrading a car after the fact is next to impossible.
 

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If the car has one cell group with less capacity than the rest, the maximum range will be reduced.
Pack voltage at max range in a normal pack is around 400 volts. A weak cell group of the sort that GM hoped would indicate an at risk cell for fire may be 5 - 50 milliVolts lower than the average cell when fully charged.

Go ahead, guess the difference in range of a pack at 399.975 Volts compared to 400. And just for giggles, I'll point out that the average variation in pack voltage at full charge in normal packs is up to 300 - 500 mV

You are playing with fire. Good luck, because you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
This is outside of the questions you asked, but is fast charging important to you? If so, check to make sure it has fast charging. People have bought non-quick charging Bolts not realizing not all Bolts had fast charging. It was a $750 option on the 2017 cars. Upgrading a car after the fact is next to impossible.
Yup. DCFC and seat heaters.
 

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Yup. DCFC and seat heaters.
Wish I had the seat heaters, which can make a big difference in cold-weather power consumption. Though in California seat coolers would get more use, and you'll probably be running the heater for defrosting or defogging the windshield, anyway. Unfortunately, in the 2017s at least, heaters were only available in Premier trim or with other major option packages. At least DCFC was a separate option, and California dealers ordered nearly all of their stock with it (I think in the old days that was called a "mandatory option"). So I got a no-frills LT with DCFC, used, at a reasonable (for the time) price.
 

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Pack voltage at max range in a normal pack is around 400 volts. A weak cell group of the sort that GM hoped would indicate an at risk cell for fire may be 5 - 50 milliVolts lower than the average cell when fully charged.

Go ahead, guess the difference in range of a pack at 399.975 Volts compared to 400. And just for giggles, I'll point out that the average variation in pack voltage at full charge in normal packs is up to 300 - 500 mV

You are playing with fire. Good luck, because you need it.
When mine got the "final fix" for the first recall, they tested my battery and reported (on the service invoice) the lowest cell and average cell voltage. They were the same, to the two decimal places they reported.
 

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I think they'd have to use something like a time domain reflectometer one each single cell to get some clue as to damage. Not sure they can do that in car. The leveling of battery would be nice to know over time.
 
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