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  • The landlord is not as old-fashioned as the panel suggests. Why did they change to splits?
Would need Digi to chime in and confirm, but I'm pretty sure the labels on the panel are not referring to split HVAC units. The printing on the panel looks like it was done a long time ago and I had the exact same kind of labelling on my 1980s panel that got upgraded; the branch circuit was split to provide different legs of the hot to different receptacles in the kitchen.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Would need Digi to chime in and confirm, but I'm pretty sure the labels on the panel are not referring to split HVAC units. The printing on the panel looks like it was done a long time ago and I had the exact same kind of labelling on my 1980s panel that got upgraded; the branch circuit was split to provide different legs of the hot to different receptacles in the kitchen.
I know nothing....but how to flip the switches as needed. LOL!!!

There is a pic on page 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Oh I forgot to mention that there is NO A/C in my apartment. Just a window 8000BTU Midea Air A/C that uses a standard plug.
 

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Moving is not an option. The rent is incredibly cheap here. $550Cdn a month for a two bedroom is extremely rare. You cannot find anything lower. I charge at 12 amp and it does perfectly fine and does not get that warm at all as the kitchen is split into 2 circuits.
Score, I see the 240V stove breaker is in the off position. I'd be looking behind the gas stove to find the 240V plug and be using that. Get an adapter for the Bolt's EVSE and run it off 240V. Been using mine since 2017 on 240V. Even the extension cord you're using could be modified to plug into the stove outlet.

edit: can't read the amperage on the stove breaker. might be better to run a 10 gauge cord (only good for 30 amps) and not use the extension cord even though you're only pulling 12 amps through it. or change out the breaker to protect the cord.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Score, I see the 240V stove breaker is in the off position. I'd be looking behind the gas stove to find the 240V plug and be using that. Get an adapter for the Bolt's EVSE and run it off 240V. Been using mine since 2017 on 240V. Even the extension cord you're using could be modified to plug into the stove outlet.

edit: can't read the amperage on the stove breaker. might be better to run a 10 gauge cord (only good for 30 amps) and not use the extension cord even though you're only pulling 12 amps through it. or change out the breaker to protect the cord.
Stove is electric. Everything is except for the heat and the water heater. I turned it off because I never use the stove ( I hate cooking ) and the cat will not stay off of it....so I killed the breaker. The stove is across from the kitchen plug I use. Can't do because I need to put the plug under the doors and I doubt that a 100FT 240v cord will work over that distance. HOWEVER maybe he can tap into that?
 

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HOWEVER maybe he can tap into that?
He, as in the Landlord? Seem to recall issues with Federal Pioneer. There's actually quite a bit of room in this panel. But don't know the amp rating of the feed as this is a sub panel. That's the neat thing about using the Bolt's EVSE, is that it doesn't pull a lot of amps. 80% of 15 amps is 12 amps which is perfect. I'd probably use a minimum of 12 gauge extension cord for a 100' foot run to minimize any voltage drop. But if the stove is not being used, there's plenty of head room for sure.
Not sure if the Federal Pacific Stab-Lok works or not:
 

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Would need Digi to chime in and confirm, but I'm pretty sure the labels on the panel are not referring to split HVAC units. The printing on the panel looks like it was done a long time ago and I had the exact same kind of labelling on my 1980s panel that got upgraded; the branch circuit was split to provide different legs of the hot to different receptacles in the kitchen.
That seems to have some basis, yet raises some further observations.

  • There are single pole breaker in positions 11 and 13 labeled kitchen sockets.
  • Why would an electrician, contracted by the owner to meed Ontario regulations, split a 240v circuit and leave ganged breakers (positions 4-6 and 8-10 are clearly linked by a common trip bar)?
  • What do the double pole breakers do? Do they go to the store downstairs?
  • It seems that one breaker covers a common area, bottom hall-position 14. Are you paying for a common area?
There are further concerns that could help or hinder negotiations.

  • Stab Lok panels have multiple CPSC and inspection warnings to be replaced. FPE (Federal Pioneer) falsified UL tests among other corruption. If you see an older (like the 112-24) panel, a home inspector recommends replacement. Schneider in Canada apparently offered warranty compensation.
  • Grey body, black handle breakers are not FPE equipment. They may be equally defective UBI breakers that have a 45% defect rate (pull 2x current and they do not trip).
You can do a quick Google search for the above.

Interesting.
 

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I have not tried this solution, but there is a thing called EVDoubler that plugs into 2 5-15 outlets and then the 5-15 plug on the stock EVSE plugs into the doubler. I am guessing it puts 120V on the hot and neutral pins. Effectively, this is the same thing most 240V adapters do to make the stock EVSE 240V compatible, but this does it with 2 120V standard outlets.

The stock EVSE will provide 12A at 240V (2.88kW) vs the standard 1.44kW with a single 120V outlet. So you will take half the time to reach full charge.

Since you are limited to 12A by the EVSE, the 15A standard household circuits should be fine. But, it does say they need to be two separate circuits (non-GFCI).

Using your current scheme, simply run 2 extension cords from separate circuits to the doubler, then plug the stock EVSE into the doubler.
 

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Since you are limited to 12A by the EVSE, the 15A standard household circuits should be fine. But, it does say they need to be two separate circuits (non-GFCI).
The EV Doubler needs more than just two separate circuits, they have to be on different legs/phases. Digi saying that flipping switches is as technical as he gets with electricity, I didn't want to suggest he grab a multimeter and test circuits to see if they're on different legs of the panel. Easy enough of a task for someone with some electrical know-how, though.
 

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The EV Doubler needs more than just two separate circuits, they have to be on different legs/phases.
I am not an electrician, and didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night...but if I understand, looking at the main panel, choosing an outlet from a room with a breaker on the left side of the panel, and one on the right side of the panel gives you the separate phases?

Nevermind...found the install instructions for EV Doubler here, it takes a little more hunting and pecking to isolate the two phases.
 

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I have no access to the water heater. There is no basement that I am aware of either....heck I do not even have access to a THERMOSTAT. LOL!!!! Only the business underneath me has access to those....which is no fun in the spring when it is heating up....and the older folk downstairs think that "it's still chilly" and cranks the gas furnace up.....then I have to tell them to turn it down because I am sweating. Ugh.

That aside, you do bring up some points I have not considered. The gas generator is a no go. The landlord was FORCED apparently to upgrade from fuses to breakers in the past due to a Fire and Safety Law in Ontario. I will bring up the other points to him. I would be happy if I can get one of those modded cords for my EVSE that came with my car and use whatever plug THAT uses.

The "Blank" room next to wear I park is a locked storage room that I have absolutely no access to. Landlord only. I have a feeling that is my "golden nugget" so to speak. I ALWAYS trust my gut instinct....and it is usually always right.
Well, that's interesting... a store downstairs! See if the store owner is interested in offering EV charging to you and you pay a flat fee (unless the business is able to meter your use). A run downstairs would be easier and of a shorter distance than from upstairs. Also, I imagine the store parking spots sit unused at night. That could be your overnight parking spot.

  • I would imagine the business being concerned about demand charges. Adding a timer inside that activates the line during non-business hours, should alleviate concern of impact on demand charges.
  • Offering a NEMA 5-15 socket would limit draw to 1.44 KW. A NEMA 6-20 socket would allow you to attach a 16A EVSE that draws 3.3 KW. Your OEM EVSE with an adapter will run at 12A and draw 2.88 KW.
  • Putting a lock box so that you can house your EVSE and also be the only one to use it.
If interested, the business might also want to inquire about subsidies to offer EVSE charging.
 

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BTW, have you gone through a winter with your Bolt? Since you're in Canada, I imagine your Bolt may turn on battery conditioning while parked or is charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Well, that's interesting... a store downstairs! See if the store owner is interested in offering EV charging to you and you pay a flat fee (unless the business is able to meter your use). A run downstairs would be easier and of a shorter distance than from upstairs. Also, I imagine the store parking spots sit unused at night. That could be your overnight parking spot.

  • I would imagine the business being concerned about demand charges. Adding a timer inside that activates the line during non-business hours, should alleviate concern of impact on demand charges.
  • Offering a NEMA 5-15 socket would limit draw to 1.44 KW. A NEMA 6-20 socket would allow you to attach a 16A EVSE that draws 3.3 KW. Your OEM EVSE with an adapter will run at 12A and draw 2.88 KW.
  • Putting a lock box so that you can house your EVSE and also be the only one to use it.
If interested, the business might also want to inquire about subsidies to offer EVSE charging.
There is a McIntee Realtor under me. I asked them about this and the owner said no sadly. They don’t have dedicated parking spots. As a matter of fact I am required to move my car during business hours despite it being my designated parking spot to make room for customers.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
BTW, have you gone through a winter with your Bolt? Since you're in Canada, I imagine your Bolt may turn on battery conditioning while parked or is charging.
Yup. No issues except for the expected 20-30% range loss due to winter tires and cold and heater usage.
 

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Could the blank room be the room with the water heaters? Would a shorter run, meaning adding a 240V outlet to the other side of the wall, cost much less thus you would not object to paying 100% of the upgrade?
 

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There is a McIntee Realtor under me. I asked them about this and the owner said no sadly. They don’t have dedicated parking spots. As a matter of fact I am required to move my car during business hours despite it being my designated parking spot to make room for customers.
Parking inconvenience, explains the cheap rent.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Could the blank room be the room with the water heaters? Would a shorter run, meaning adding a 240V outlet to the other side of the wall, cost much less thus you would not object to paying 100% of the upgrade?
Water heater is shared and is in a closet sized room in the realtor underneath. As mentioned above the blank room is a storage room. Nothing in there but the landlords stuff.
 
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