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Rather than confuse the issue with Anderson PowerPoles, why don't you connect a 1,500 watt inverter directly to your Bolt EV battery and continuously run 1,500 watts worth of appliances against it for a few days and report back to us? :p
I mentioned the connector ratings as a FYI because most people only think about wire AWG, but the contacts typically have more resistance and are pretty important when they have to carry 100+ amps continuously. Not that anyone is actually using them at that level, but you never know.
 

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Hey all - Been poking through this thread, and I appreciate all the good info - One thing I really want to point out is that it's important, nowadays, to get a GOOD pure sine-wave inverter. You'll know because they're more expensive than the rest and have a lower power rating. Why? Because everything will like you better, especially power-factor corrected power supplies, which are pretty much in everything, and the motors in your fridge, and potentially LEDs and CFLs too. Why? Because sub-par inverters put out a horrible, over-voltage mid-duty cycle square wave to basically make a 100W incandescent light bulb light up with the same brightness as "real" power, but with shady, horrible power. This also desperately confuses and stresses power-factor corrected power supplies like in your laptop, TV, stereo, etc etc etc, and is abusive to electric motors.

With the proliferation of good MOSFETS and fantastically cheap microcontrollers and DSPs for the past, oh, 15 years, I can't understand why, nowadays, every inverter isn't a pure sine wave (or at least such a high frequency PWM that it's impossible to tell the difference) but alas, bad hardware is still out there.

Do your research and invest in good hardware that will last (and won't kill your boiler and internet router)
 

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Cost is still king, especially for infrequently used devices. Last time I used a portable inverter was probably 15 years ago. Don't see the need to buy the best when I hardly ever use the thing. I'd surely buy a pure sine wave inverter if the application necessitated it, the price was very close to square wave inverters, or I very frequently used it.
 

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The same components are used to reverse that (inverter) to provide 120v/240v AC from the ~400v battery.
The same components could potentially be used, but that depends entirely on the circuit design. There are typically multiple stages inside an on board charger, some of which may use components that only allow current to flow one way (diodes). I would bet that the Bolt's OBC is not capable of being used as a DC-AC inverter.
 

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The same components could potentially be used, but that depends entirely on the circuit design. There are typically multiple stages inside an on board charger, some of which may use components that only allow current to flow one way (diodes). I would bet that the Bolt's OBC is not capable of being used as a DC-AC inverter.
Which was the purpose of me stating in the same post:

It would need to be revised to include a method of sending power back in the opposite direction, along with manufacturers designing the vehicle to do so.
.
 

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Which was the purpose of me stating in the same post:
Sorry, I read it as if you were saying the OBC was bidirectional.

Unfortunately I believe the J1772 standard is too "dumb" to provide this capability. It would need to be revised to include a method of sending power back in the opposite direction, along with manufacturers designing the vehicle to do so.
It would be great if the Bolt had a bidirectional OBC so that a future SW update enabled V2G functionality (which will likely be added to the J1772 spec at some point) but that would have further lowered GMs margins ;)
 

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Looks like we should be on the look out for inverter deals on Black Friday! :)
EVExtend responded to my inquiry, this way:

"When optionally bundled with a 1000W inverter, we include an AIMS brand
1000W pure sinewave inverter with 2000W surge.

When optionally bundled with a 1500W inverter, we include a VertaMax brand
1500W pure sinewave inverter with 3000W surge."

Any comments?
 

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EVExtend responded to my inquiry, this way:

"When optionally bundled with a 1000W inverter, we include an AIMS brand
1000W pure sinewave inverter with 2000W surge.

When optionally bundled with a 1500W inverter, we include a VertaMax brand
1500W pure sinewave inverter with 3000W surge."

Any comments?
The 1500W inverter will allow you to charge another EV. ;)

Sine Wave is the highest quality/best wave form.
 

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As I've pointed out before, the Bolt and all EVs already have onboard chargers capable of converting (AC to DC) 120v/240v AC into ~400v DC. The same components are used to reverse that (inverter) to provide 120v/240v AC from the ~400v battery. The bulk of the components needed to do vehicle to home are already in place, and indeed the Chademo specification has provisions for such use.

Unfortunately I believe the J1772 standard is too "dumb" to provide this capability. It would need to be revised to include a method of sending power back in the opposite direction, along with manufacturers designing the vehicle to do so.
On the note of CHAdeMO, I was at Tokyo Motor Show in the past few weeks and at the Megaweb area, there was a demo area w/a Leaf, Clarity FCEV and Mirai FCEV, two of them connected to https://www.nichicon.co.jp/english/product_news/new173.html. The Honda was connected to https://global.honda/innovation/FuelCell/PowerExporter9000-engineer-talk.html. This was all via CHAdeMO.

I'd seen the Honda Power Exporter back in Tokyo Motor Show 2017 (IIRC) at Honda's booth.

I'd seen a 1000 watt CHAdeMO to 100 volt AC box from AESC (100 volts is the voltage they use in Japan) at Nissan HQ in late 2015. I posted about it at https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=504949#p504949. It is one of these: https://www.aesc-lb-ec.com/products/detail.php?product_id=6. (AESC was the JV between Nissan and NEC that produced batteries for Leaf + li-ion batteries for Nissan hybrids. Eventually, it was almost completely sold to Envision: https://www.reuters.com/article/us-nissan-battery/nissan-agrees-to-sell-car-battery-unit-to-chinas-envision-group-idUSKBN1KO15A after the deal to sell it to GSR fell through.)
 

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It's worth noting that if you have a UPS for your computer or home entertainment system, it is almost certainly a modified-sine-wave generator, not pure sine wave.
 

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It's worth noting that if you have a UPS for your computer or home entertainment system, it is almost certainly a modified-sine-wave generator, not pure sine wave.
True. Pure sine wave UPSes are quite expensive (I have none) but I'm not planning to run long extension cords off of them

I have between 0 and 2 UPSes that might be powerful enough to start my fridge. I haven't tested them yet. It wouldn't matter much as their runtimes would be pretty short.
 

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True. Pure sine wave UPSes are quite expensive (I have none) but I'm not planning to run long extension cords off of them

I have between 0 and 2 UPSes that might be powerful enough to start my fridge. I haven't tested them yet. It wouldn't matter much as their runtimes would be pretty short.
My point is just that some people think that when buying an inverter, you must go for pure sine wave because the horrible output of a modified sine wave inverter will trash everything, including their valuable electronics. In reality, both pricey servers and cheaper home machines get hooked up to UPSs that provide a modified sine wave.

A/C motors are less happy about about getting a modified sine wave but will usually run (a little more noisily, and less efficiently with more waste heat generated) on a modified sine wave.

I'm not sure I'd want my (fairly old) fridge running off a modified sine wave day in, day out because I think it's harder on it, but for an emergency, I think I'd hope it could suck it up. In many labs there are freezers that must not fail and those get hooked up to UPSs. I'm sure labs with good budgets hook them up to pure-sine-wave ones but I'm also pretty certain that there are freezers connected to modified sine-wave UPSs, too.

Some modern appliances (including fridges) are now “inverter” models where they convert house power to DC and then create their own AC (three-phase AC in the case of motors, much like the Bolt does). Those ones shouldn't care much about dirty AC power.

One added wrinkle is that the nastiness of the wave out of a modified sine wave inverter varies. See the graphs in this discussion on SuperUser.

More about pure vs modifed sine-waves on UPSs here and here.

When I picked an inverter about a year ago to have for emergencies, I concluded that the odds were high that I'd never ever use it. On that basis, I went for a modified sine wave one (specifically a Power Bright PW1100-12 1100 Watt 12V Inverter), which about $85 and came with cables. On my to-do list is seeing just what the output waveform really looks like.

(It might affect my decision that my fridge is over 18 years old. I don't think it likely that I'll have an emergency where I need to run the fridge off the inverter and I don't think it likely that if I did need to, that doing so would kill the fridge, but if both did happen, it wouldn't be the end of the world since the average life expectancy for a properly maintained refrigerator is 14–17 years.)
 

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I quickly discovered that the Bolt (2019) would power itself off after a certain amount of time if left in Park. So I made sure the parking brake was on, put it in Neutral and it did the trick. If you click the driver's seatbelt, the car thinks you're still inside. So no need to mess with the foot brake/driver's door ritual.

Finally, in terms of consumption, I used just under 9% of a full charge in 24h, running the fridge and the occasional light. That's a lot of reserve. ****, I should splurged on a microwave meal...
Can you elaborate on all the steps that you did?
  • parking brake
  • neutral
  • ?elastic around shifter button?
  • driver's seatbelt in (did it not work without this?)
  • exit through driver or passenger door?
 

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That is the HV coolant pump below the reservoir at the front driver's side. It also starts if you put the car in Neutral while sitting in the garage. I think it is a simple way to alert technicians that the car is live, and something is up.. It pulls about 100 watts per Torque Pro.
How do you get the 100W pull exactly?

Also, I have had the hood open many, many times without the pump going - I think that's just coincidence.
 

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With all the chaos going around the globe, I purchased and installed the EVExtend for my 2019 Bolt EV and the VertaMax 1500W pure sine wave inverter with 3000W surge.

I powered the 100' heavy duty extension cord from my garage to my kitchen and successfully ran my refrigerator/freezer. If usage is required at night, I would add a few LED lights as needed.
 
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