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Also, how did you connect the power to the light kit? Separate wire to the 12V battery in the front? Or tapped into the thin-looking wire as in the how-to-install-Tekonsha pdf shared here? I am not very comfortable tapping into it due to the thickness of that wire given the trailer kit fuse is 15A and the kit has thicker wires for power...
I don't own a Bolt, so my comments are general.

I'm installing a hitch on a CX-5 Monday. I intend to tap into existing 12v circuits rather than run the length of the vehicle, which I imagine is a PITA (just did that multiple times on a Volvo for lights and brake controller recently). Every circuit is protected by it's own fuse, so worst case is you blow it and have to replace the fuse (keep extras on hand). If you use LED lights, there's no way you'd blow a fuse unless you had a short somewhere. Heck, I directly wired my LED trailer lights to the Prius harness since they were so low draw and I'm cheap.

Speaking of LED lights, I kept buying those plastic square ones at Harbor Freight, and kept breaking them off in various dumb ways. I'm finally installing steel boxes to insert them into, and hopefully that will be the end of my light breakage.
 

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Also, how did you connect the power to the light kit? Separate wire to the 12V battery in the front? Or tapped into the thin-looking wire as in the how-to-install-Tekonsha pdf shared here? I am not very comfortable tapping into it due to the thickness of that wire given the trailer kit fuse is 15A and the kit has thicker wires for power...
For my install we ran the power wire underneath the bottom left side trim up through the left front under the dash and out to the battery. Other options would be either to run the wire up front beneath the car, making sure it is tied up out of the way, or just tap into the power wire used to run the taillights and such, as in the pdf, which I think would work fine with LED lights.
 

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My trailer has LED lights, so I just tapped onto the existing power conductor to the Bolt’s “Trailer Light Module” behind the left interior panel. I cut the wire and spliced two crimp-on bullet connectors onto it, then ran one to the Trailer Light Module and the other to the Tekonsha module. Its been working fine for about 6 months now with my boat trailer.
 

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All I am saying is that if the manufacturer of my new $35,000 car says do not tow, it would be smart to know the reason why......
Did Curtis, TorqueLift, U-haul or Draw Tight conduct stress tests on the frame? If so, I'd love to see the data.
OK, let's do the simple math.
What is less of a load on the Bolt drivetrain and [frame] structure?

You, your deuce-and-a-half wife and 3 even larger members of her family in your Bolt

versus

Pulling an 800 lb trailer supporting most of its weight on its own suspension?

The hitch is bolting to the hard points where the impact bumper structure attaches and the one I'm getting also contacts another hard point on a diagonal.

I'll take my loaded Bolt risks and you take yours.
 

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We just got the draw tight and harness, we are towing a MYPOD trailer, 120 LBS tongue, 650 LBS camper, sits a smidge lower than the bolt. once loaded with everything, we are probably sitting at the 750 pounds. a minor drop in range, we are going to do an experiment this weekend, and drive to an area, that has some elevation, then do again with the trailer, we'll be posting pics and vids Monday, even our grill is electric.
 

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I bought my 2019 Bolt a couple weeks ago, in Dec 2019. A week later I installed the DrawTite hitch. Yesterday (24 Dec), it was 70 degrees here in Alabama, so I hitched up my small boat and pulled it around for an hour or so to see how manageable it will be. I was happy with the result. The big unknown for the data I show below is the weight of my boat & trailer. I apologize that I don't know it, but will try to get it weighed soon. The boat hull weighs about 250 lbs and the outboard motor weighs about 250 lbs. I don't know the weight of the (steel) trailer. I attach a photo of the car with boat, so you can judge the trailer load compared with whatever you may have.

Until now, I've been pulling my boat with a 6-cylinder Mercury Milan sedan (basically a Ford Fusion). The main difference I found pulling it with the Bolt is that the trailer was much louder within the Bolt cabin than in the Milan. I.e. I could hear every creak & squeak of the trailer and the ball/socket as I drove around in the Bolt. The hitch is bolted directly to the rear frame of the Bolt. But I felt the Bolt had plenty of power to pull my trailer, and I was very comfortable with the handling, and felt that I would be confident pulling the boat to our cabin about 85 interstate miles from home, at 65 MPH on the interstate and local highways. As I was accelerating up the ramp to the interstate, the Bolt showed 50 kW power consumption. Climbing a fairly steep hill on a highway not on my "test route", I saw max 75 kW consumption.

For the sake of science/sharing, I've established a "test route" from my home to the local airport about 14 miles away. The route is basically 4-5 stop & go city blocks to an interstate entrance, then onto the Interstate where I set the cruise control to 65 MPH and drive 13 miles to the airport. I loop through the airport departure lane and return home on the interstate at 65 MPH, then exit and do the 4-5 blocks back home. The route is mostly level, with light undulations on the interstate. I used the level on my iPhone to watch the road grade, varying with about +/- 3-4 degrees on the route.

I've done the trip 4 times under different conditions (night/day, clear/raining). Each time, I set my trip odometer to 0 when leaving my driveway. When I return, the odometer shows miles driven (28.1) and average miles/kWh - which I assume is averaged over the duration of my trip. I've tried to conduct each drive under similar car conditions, though I'm not sure if there might be some automatic climate control settings that change between trips. I've turned off the climate control and turned on the heated steering wheel for each trip. Here are my results:

22 Dec, 6 PM (dark outside = headlights on), raining, 52 deg F ambient temp. No trailer.
28.2 miles, 2.8 mi/kWh => 168 miles expected range

23 Dec, 8:30 PM (dark outside = headlights on), dry roads, 57 deg F ambient. No trailer.
28.1 miles, 3.6 mi/kWh => 216 miles expected range

24 Dec, 9:30 AM (sunny, no headlights), dry roads, 55 deg F ambient. Boat in tow.
28.1 miles, 2.4 mi/kWh => 144 miles expected range

24 Dec, 10:30 AM (sunny, no headlights), dry roads, 61 deg F ambient. No trailer.
28.1 miles, 4.0 mi/kWh => 240 miles expected range.

The main lesson I've learned thus far is that pulling my boat is going to reduce my range by about 40% - which in my situation is very manageable. The surprise is the reduction from driving in rainy conditions. The good news is that I usually don't pull my boat in the rain!

View attachment 27938
GUY/MAN/DUDE...I'm no doctor, but your boat almost matches your car-do you have any other super powers...
 

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Been there done that! Not so dramatic but got home with the transmission cooked, smoking badly, dribbling fluid in the driveway. AMC Eagle (Chrysler A/T) pulling a 1,500 lb camp trailer that had more wind resistance than the Eagle wanted. Cost $1,000 to replace all the transmission seals. That Eagle looked gorgeous but was bad in numerous ways.
you had an eagle...I'm jealous!!!!!
 

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GUY/MAN/DUDE...I'm no doctor, but your boat almost matches your car-do you have any other super powers...
You'll have to ask my wife about my super powers... 🧐

My boat is bare aluminum. When I bought my car, the dealer had a black one and a gray one on the lot. Black cars and Alabama summers don't go together in my book, so I chose the silver car. It's really just a coincidence that it matches the boat. The same dealer now has a red one, which I probably would have chosen over the gray.

If you haven't installed the Tekonsha light controller yet, don't assume it's a walk in the park. It took me about half a day to get it installed per the doc on this site. Quite frustrating accessing the wires behind the rear interior panels in the car. But I did manage to install mine without removing seats or airbags, etc. Just the two panels described in the doc.

I've been very happy with the boat situation. When I bought my Bolt, I was choosing between a Hybrid (Ford Fusion Energi or Honda Accord Hybrid) or the Bolt. I read about the CVT transmission used in most hybrids, and watched Weber's video of the Bolt drivetrain teardown, and it felt to me that if I'm going to do non-supported towing with one or the other, the chance of success would be much better with the Bolt's simple transmission. From May-Sept, we drive about 90 miles (one way) about 2/3 interstate to a lake cabin 2-3 weekends each month. I tow the boat on 60-70% of those trips. I've seen no issues thus far. I leave home with a full charge and arrive at the lake with about 40-45% remaining. I installed a 240V outlet near our driveway at the lake and plug in when we get there. The car is fully charged the next morning. Drive back home the following day and plug it into the OEM EVSE on 120V. It takes a couple days to charge back to full at home, but I work from home and am typically in no hurry to take the car anywhere until the next weekend.

I hadn't really noticed it before, but our electric bill at the lake has a fairly high fixed cost each month. I think the local utility co-op is basically milking all the out-of-town weekenders to keep the rates low for the locals (mostly farmers). So it's costing me almost nothing to charge the car at the lake, because until now I've just been pissing those few $$ away every month in the minimum fees. I figure I'm saving $10-20 each time we go the lake, vs driving previously with my ICE car.

I'm no doctor either, but my success with the Bolt & boat thus far have made me feel like I made a good decision. And that's a nice feeling. (Fingers crossed.)
 

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Do not get an expensive lights controller.
Get any model that is very cheap on Amazon (used-like new is the best option).

My Bolt has a 500 controller (used on 500e for several months) and works just same as any other. I got it for Fiat for about $25 shipped.
As long as it is the "battery supplied" style, it will work.


My flat HF 4x8 trailer - barely any extra energy use, unless I tow something that sticks up high. Weight load does not really make a huge impact. Rolling resistance is small. Braking is a bit longer, though.
 
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Everything still working okay?
Your method looks to be the simplest and believe me, I need simple!!
Any install suggestions?

My trailer has LED lights, so I just tapped onto the existing power conductor to the Bolt’s “Trailer Light Module” behind the left interior panel. I cut the wire and spliced two crimp-on bullet connectors onto it, then ran one to the Trailer Light Module and the other to the Tekonsha module. Its been working fine for about 6 months now with my boat trailer.
 

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If you are asking about taking power for the Tekonsha module from the Bolt's Trailer Light Module, then yes, it's still working fine. My trailer has two sets of LED lights on each side, and the stop/turn LEDs on the rear.

Regarding suggestions, I will point out that I followed the wiring instructions in jsftam's pdf document posted to this site. I ran a 4-flat connector from the Tekonsha through the slots in the side panel and into the rear cargo area. This means when I'm pulling my trailer I run the cable out the rear of cargo area and close the hatch door over the cable. This hasn't caused me any problem; it's what I did with my previous car as well. But recently I saw someone else's post here where they apparently ran the cable through the bottom of the "spare tire well" under the cargo area. Their trailer light cable appears to be tie-wrapped to the hitch beneath the car, coming out through the same cutout in the fascia that was made for the hitch. I kind of like that approach, and wonder whether I should have done it myself. It would avoid closing the hatch on the cable many times - though admittedly I've never had a problem doing that.
 

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I would strongly advice against running the connector outside.
I did it once years ago and the rust killed it very quickly.

the hardest part for me was to locate the wires and actually access them.
I did not splice, I soldered over them.

I missed here that we were talking about the "sensing" system. This is the least destructive option. Expensive a bit, but works very well.
I just preferred the separate amber turn signals from the brake lights. A lot of work, though.
 

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We just got the draw tight and harness, we are towing a MYPOD trailer, 120 LBS tongue, 650 LBS camper, sits a smidge lower than the bolt. once loaded with everything, we are probably sitting at the 750 pounds. a minor drop in range, we are going to do an experiment this weekend, and drive to an area, that has some elevation, then do again with the trailer, we'll be posting pics and vids Monday, even our grill is electric.
I'm curious how it's been going towing a MYPOD trailer with the BEV. I'm considering doing the same, teardrop travel trailering, with my new, to me, 2017 Bolt. The MyPod is generally attractive and has probably the ideal weight but I'm wondering how much more weight, if any, one might go, do you think, before significant issues impact performance.
 

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I would strongly advice against running the connector outside.
I did it once years ago and the rust killed it very quickly.
...
Probably a good idea to put a little grease on the connector pins to prevent corrosion. Mine sits outside so I think that's what I'll do.
 

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I'm curious how it's been going towing a MYPOD trailer with the BEV. I'm considering doing the same, teardrop travel trailering, with my new, to me, 2017 Bolt. The MyPod is generally attractive and has probably the ideal weight but I'm wondering how much more weight, if any, one might go, do you think, before significant issues impact performance.
Have to get some vid edited, and post on YouTube, we lost like 10/15% range with all the camp gear. Try and keep at 50ish,long hill, yea...45 depending on how steep. But really with a tongue weight of 170, camper is 650 over the wheels, we put some stuff, around 70 lbs in the trunk then probably another 100 in the pod, and no problems, barely notice it back there. It is comfy, and everywhere we camped its a conversation piece, if its crappy out, watch movies on the tv, well swap off between charging the bolt, then plug in the pod. If your sleeping, and only running the fan, the battery will carry, or plug into 120v/15amp. pm me if you want some more info. Well do a thread with, everything, plus like a 15 min vid.
31221
 

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Here is my haul for the day. Only had to go about 15 miles one way. This is about the limit of what I would want to tow with the Bolt. It pulled along fine but I would not want to have to make any emergency maneuvers.
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Towing the Mule.jpg
Towing the Mule.jpg
 
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