[Electromojo]

I genuinely appreciate everyone's input. There's always more to learn, and I have no doubt that many people here have more knowledge and experience than me.

I'm not a complete novice with electrical though, having rewired my entire (albeit small) house, installed a couple of Tesla chargers for friends, etc.- all with permits.

Note too that my original post asked whether to connect the neutrals at the lugs next to the ground screw or wire nut them together. Of course I understood that they had to be connected.

Installing a 14-50 in a short run of PVC conduit is not only simple, but easy for an inspector to check to make sure it was done properly. The only part of the run that the inspector won't be able to see is the wiring inside the conduit- all the connections will be plainly visible.

Because of this, I feel confident in DIYing it. Thanks all.

 

[jimmarako]

On the other hand, asking the questions and doing the research is how a person learns to do things. I have never hired a carpenter, electrician, plumber, motorcycle mechanic, roofer, financial planner, appliance repair person, drywall finisher, etc. in my life. I learn to do things, and often do them better than the professionals because I care more about the long term outcome.

I agree with you 100%. You ask questions, watch some videos, get a book,... thats how you learn and can handle your own problems. There seems to be some universal fear of doing electrical work. I'm in various RV groups and its the same way.
I want to replace my brakes and service my bearings, How? Watch some videos, ask questions here,....
I want to extend my propane lines so that I can run my grill at the back of the trailer and use a fire pit, how? Watch some videos, ask questions here,.....
I want to install a new outlet in my garage for the trailer, How? Whoa... hang on. No No No. if you have to ask you are going to kill everyone in your neighborhood. Hire three certified electricians to do this job....
Running a 14-50 for an EV is really no different than running a 20A outlet for your fridge. The OP is getting it inspected, that will keep everything honest.

 

[BobBolt]

NEMA 6-50 receptacle would be the choice.

Exactly....unless you have an RV there is no need for anything more.

 

[usedBolt]

Problem is, for electrical work beyond replacing something existing (e.g. failed light switches, outlets that have become too loose), you may not know what you don't know. I have very little knowledge of NEC (National Electrical Code) and what must be done to meet code and to be safe. Too bad many links at https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/honeymoon-is-over.39074/page-2#post-617959 are busted now because MyNissanLeaf has changed software at least once or twice since those posts were made. Hopefully, one can get an idea what that guy was doing wrong.

I still stand by my statement there of "I strongly would NOT recommend DIY for those who can't tell everything that's wrong there w/o having to look things up." I also am still not qualified and i've been driving BEVs since end of July 2013.

100% agree. I also cannot answer the OP's questions so again, I'm not qualified. There's too much I don't know.

At least you know that you don't know. Maybe not always what you don't know but you know that you don't know something important or relevant. The dangerous ones are the ones that don't know what they don't know, and sometimes are proud of that.

 

[jefro]

I love pvc but you may also have to watch spacing. A 3/4" pvc can't hold as much as a 3/4" EMT. Easy to search internet for how to fill them with number of wires and such.

 

[ClarDold]

Really? So what happens when you wire a 120V with Line and Ground only... no neutral.

If there is no neutral at your 120 volt outlet, the 120 volt appliance wouldn't work.

If you were missing a neutral in a 14-50, or if neutral is broken at your main panel, then the return path for your 120 volt appliance is through something plugged in on the other leg of the 240 volt circuit.
In an overall balanced circuit, your 100 watt TV has a return path through other devices on the other leg, as it always is actually a 240 volt circuit. If the load is imbalanced between the two legs, there is current on the neutral in a proper circuit, which is why you don't want to tie neutral and ground together.
If your circuit has no neutral (not just the outlet, which you posit), the return path is only through devices on the other leg of the 240 volt circuit. If there is 100 watts on the other leg, everything is fine. If nothing is powered on on the other leg, your TV won't work, because it has no neutral return. If there is a total of 400 watts on the other leg, that would draw the broken neutral point further in that direction. You would see 192 volts on your TV, and something less than 48 volts on the other devices. Your TV may or may not like 192 volts.
Lights in the house might appear overly bright or dim, or blow out, along with your TV.

 

[jimmarako]

If there is no neutral at your 120 volt outlet, the 120 volt appliance wouldn't work.

If you were missing a neutral in a 14-50, or if neutral is broken at your main panel, then the return path for your 120 volt appliance is through something plugged in on the other leg of the 240 volt circuit.
In an overall balanced circuit, your 100 watt TV has a return path through other devices on the other leg, as it always is actually a 240 volt circuit. If the load is imbalanced between the two legs, there is current on the neutral in a proper circuit, which is why you don't want to tie neutral and ground together.
If your circuit has no neutral (not just the outlet, which you posit), the return path is only through devices on the other leg of the 240 volt circuit. If there is 100 watts on the other leg, everything is fine. If nothing is powered on on the other leg, your TV won't work, because it has no neutral return. If there is a total of 400 watts on the other leg, that would draw the broken neutral point further in that direction. You would see 192 volts on your TV, and something less than 48 volts on the other devices. Your TV may or may not like 192 volts.
Lights in the house might appear overly bright or dim, or blow out, along with your TV.

While for RV's this shows a picture explaining what you said.

Open neutral dangers

A 50-amp, 240-volt pedestal outlet is only safe when the neutral is intact!

rvelectricity.substack.com

 

[Electromojo]

I love pvc but you may also have to watch spacing. A 3/4" pvc can't hold as much as a 3/4" EMT. Easy to search internet for how to fill them with number of wires and such.

My understanding is that four #6 conductors are allowed in 3/4" PVC but I went with 1"- it makes everything easier.

 

[jefro]

I use the web to see various factors in a calculator.
1 inch should do assuming typical wire type and insulation.


To others

Only a loonie bin would wire an outlet missing wires. Anytime you have source and no return it invites death.

 

[ClarDold]

Only a loonie bin would wire an outlet missing wires. Anytime you have source and no return it invites death.

In some jurisdictions, it is allowed per code to leave out neutral on a receptacle labeled as EVSE-only.

Missing neutral is more hazardous to equipment than it is to personnel. It probably doesn't encompass an invitation for death any more than a working 120 volt outlet.

 

[jefro]

Not sure I've seen such a code in NEC. Where is that?

 

[GregBrew]

At least you know that you don't know. Maybe not always what you don't know but you know that you don't know something important or relevant. The dangerous ones are the ones that don't know what they don't know, and sometimes are proud of that.

That's known as the Dunning-Kruger effect. Examples abound, on social media.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect

 

[p7wang]

In some jurisdictions, it is allowed per code to leave out neutral on a receptacle labeled as EVSE-only.

Missing neutral is more hazardous to equipment than it is to personnel. It probably doesn't encompass an invitation for death any more than a working 120 volt outlet.

I guess the thing is if you want to put a disconnect for an outlet, then might as well just hard wire it. Hard wire of 240v EVSE is 3 wires, no neutral wire.

 

[jefro]

Sorry, didn't notice you have 60A switch. That's nice. Neutral continuous is correct.

 

[Chevyboy]

not sure why you are using a disconnect switch.
If you want to switch the loads between that outlet and another item, there are devices that do that for you.

 

[BehindBars]

I guess the thing is if you want to put a disconnect for an outlet, then might as well just hard wire it. Hard wire of 240v EVSE is 3 wires, no neutral wire.

OP stated they would like to take the EVSE away to a job site on occasion. Hardwire not an option.

 

[Electromojo]

not sure why you are using a disconnect switch.
If you want to switch the loads between that outlet and another item, there are devices that do that for you.

The disconnect is not set in stone, I'm open to not using one.

The purpose wouldn't be to switch loads. Maybe another way to look at it is, why are there disconnects next to HVAC units?

 

[BobBolt]

why are there disconnects next to HVAC units?

To power it down while I'm working on it.

 

[Electromojo]

To power it down while I'm working on it.

Agreed. It's nice to have the flexibility. I believe it's code for HVAC, but power could easily be cut at the panel as well.

 

[p7wang]

Agreed. It's nice to have the flexibility. I believe it's code for HVAC, but power could easily be cut at the panel as well.

Safety code require that the disconnect to be close to the condenser unit... that way the technician can turn it off and continue to see that it has been turned off. Now if the HVAC was a plug in unit and is plugged in to a 10-30 receptacle, the disconnect would not be needed for the receptacle.