Is mentioned earlier, it's most likely that your driving habits have been getting you lower mileage than the EPA estimated profile. The range is calculated off of a trailing average of your actual achieved habits, and it you have been doing a lot of high speed freeway driving, driving up hills or other low efficiency activities, that trailing average will be lower, and your calculated range with a full charge will be lower.Thanks, I will look at the setting though it would be a default one since I didn't touch it.
Another new Bolt owner here. Our is indicating full charge at 206 miles and we have just 487 on the Odometer. I'd say we're not driving it hard. We do live half way up a hill in LA but not a massive hill and we're not in Hilltop mode. I'm not sure how to interpret the energy usage score. And on the "Efficiency History" page is that showing how it performed over the last 50 miles? So likely between miles 20 and 25 it was going down hill?
In L the brake lights activate at .1g of deceleration. They don't stay on while stopped though, so if you use L to come to complete stop you will need to put your foot on the brake to have them on while you are stopped.Pete
Thanks for helpful reply. Yes I noticed the green ring turning to yellow obviously nudging one to keep it in the green. It's been hot in LA (100 degrees today) so no surprise about the AC and consequent reduction in range. I haven't played with the paddle but have tried L mode a few times. I presume this must set it up to turn on the rear brake lights as soon as it's decelerating. Definitely good for stop/start traffic.
Can those more techno/math savvy quantify this? I'd believe it on a hypermile ICE, but it isn't consistent with my empirical EV experience.When I am on the highway and the traffic is moving good I switch to D and coast a lot. That saves a ton of energy.
There isn't any math needed. True coasting expends no energy from the battery to drive the vehicle forward, granted you will of course slow unless you are going on a decline. If you push the accelerator pedal down just a little bit you can negate the tiny bit of regen braking the bolt does while in D and get close to a true coasting experience (still not perfect because there is a small amount of drag from the engine still), you can almost do the same thing in L but it is a lot more touchy. The problem with most EVs and this is that they don't have true coasting abilities. I mean you could shift into neutral which I always did in my cars since they were manual, going to neutral and back into gear was just second nature. I'm not comfortable doing it in an automatic right now and honestly I need to read up to see if it is even ok to do on the Bolt. I assume it will let you shift to neutral while driving but I am curious if shifting in and out of neutral could cause issues. Especially because of some reports of cars having weird shifting issues. But like I said above, you can come close to a true coast if you feather the accelerator pedal just right in D, same in L but it is just touchier in L so a little more difficult. So it may be perfectly fine to switch in neutral while driving to actually get a true coast but I prefer to stay in gear and just feather the accelerator.Can those more techno/math savvy quantify this? I'd believe it on a hypermile ICE, but it isn't consistent with my empirical EV experience.
Well practice is always harder than theory. You certainly should only do things you are comfortable with or feel safe doing. Saving energy doesn't mean much if you crash. My only point is that coasting and not expending energy is always going to be more efficient than using energy and trying to recapture energy. Making it happen in the Bolt just requires a little more work than an ICE car and the efficiency gains aren't as high in comparison. ICE cars are terribly inefficient at turning energy into motion so coasting in an ICE car offers higher efficiency returns than coasting in an electric car, but coasting in an electric car is still more efficient than spending energy to try and recapture energy.In theory there would be no downside to coasting down the hill, as long as you reapplied just the right amount of power, at just the right time as the car decelerates back to your chosen speed. In practice, this is extremely difficult. You either give it juice too soon, causing it to overshot your chosen speed unnecessarily, or you wait a bit to long and have to give it extra juice to get back up to that speed. It is far easier, and ultimately more consistently successful, just letting the cruise control do its job.
I have shifted our Bolt into neutral and back to D, while driving, just to see what it does. There is no clutch in the transfer case, only a bevel gear on the motor shaft, and another on the axle. Electric motors, with power to the motor windings, will produce back EMF when coasting. This is not as strong as active regen. If the motor is disconnected from the battery, it will spin like a simple flywheel with no back EMF. This appears to be what happens when you put the Bolt in neutral. Depressing the accelerator also shows no rise in power above the accessory load, and there is no hint of motor whine.
Relating to the subject of full charge miles: Today was the first time, in over 1,300 miles, we charged to 100% rather than 90%. The guess-o-meter read 287 miles.
If you're driving in gently rolling countryside where the road goes through a series of up and down undulations then you're better off without cruise control. It's more efficient to allow the vehicle to pick up speed on the downgrades so that its momentum will help to carry it through the upgrades.In D or L, on hilly terrain, using cruise control, our Bolt maintains the set speed within plus or minus a mile an hour...better than any car we have owned. Unless you are driving in heavy traffic, driving the speed limit, or slightly less, in cruise control, will be the most efficient way to go. Coasting will not save energy. Rolling downhill at faster than your average speed, will raise your average speed, but do nothing to conserve battery energy.
Yes, but talking about what is most efficient doesn't mean it is the safest way to drive. You of course have to make that determination based on the current driving conditions.Sean Nelson,
"If you're driving in gently rolling countryside where the road goes through a series of up and down undulations then you're better off without cruise control. It's more efficient to allow the vehicle to pick up speed on the downgrades so that its momentum will help to carry it through the upgrades."
That might make sense somewhere with long straight roads. Here, the hills don't last for very long, and most have curves. Exceeding the speed limit, coasting into a blind curve with the frequent appearance of animals, down branches, or a texting SUV driver over the center line, doesn't make for relaxed driving.