Add me to that list. I've spoken with a friend about machining some based on the plans here but haven't progressed yet. Sure would be nice to have the sway bar in place once autocross resumes.I'd be interested in buying a set "for novelty purposes only", no legal strings attached.
Thanks Colt Hero... I think it shouldn't be a problem because the bolt is tightened securely using steel plates at the top and bottom of the D-hole, which should hold the bolt stationary relative to the trailing arm, without putting any pressure on the plastic spacer. So the bolt should not move relative to the plastic spacer, and indeed the bolt should not be putting any pressure on the plastic spacer either since the bolt is held securely to the trailing arm via the steel plates. The plastic spacer is really only there for initial positioning of the bolt during installation, before the bolt is torqued. After that, the spacer is just "along for the ride".Good job! And stylish, too!
But I have to ask ... and you probably know what I’m about to say ... is that 3D material gonna stand up over time? Isn’t the bolt (which I’m sure is smooth going through the hole) still going to turn that center circle into an ellipse over time? I guess you’d have to unbolt it and visually inspect at various intervals to find out, right?
More or less. This is a new part being added to the Bolt, the D shaped hole is already there. The sway bar is designed to fit the Cruze but the Bolt axle is similar enough (not the same) that it can be adapted to work.So, just to be clear: This is a new part being added to the Bolt, and the "D" hole was already there to accept this new part ... because the Bolt shares Cruze suspension parts, and this Sway Bar actually comes from the Cruze?
Have I got that right?
Should help it. From what I've read the axle "failure" seems to be caused by contact between the two tubes of the double walled twist beam. It seems common across many gm platforms that use this style rear axle and is likely just a noise issue rather than something that's actually broken. TSB 16-na-316 for the Volt is just lubricant sprayed inside the axle through a drilled hole for access. Either way, the rear sway bar increases the rigidity of the rear axle resulting in less deflection of the twist beam tubes, .Might this help (or hurt?) all of the rear axle failures I am hearing about?
I made these a while back on a 3D printer to ensure they fit correctly... and then I had planned on either doing them on a mini CNC machine we got in at work as my training part... or on a lathe and finished on the end mill. Never did get around to having time to do either... so I asked a buddy to machine them up for me. 303 stainless, done on a really nice lathe with live tooling and y axis. I also had sent the CAD file around to some local machine centers... I was quoted $150 - $250 in 303 stainless and $125 - $175 in 6061 aluminum. I opted for the 303 as I didn't want to deal with surface oxidation on the 6061 or the need to protect them. Granted I could have probably got away with some paint as enough protection without having to anodize them.
Neat approach. In theory it should work just fine. My hesitation is around the thickness of the plate and the forces through it. Looks like you have a stack of washers both sides to help with this. You'll get some moisture (over time) wicking into the plastic part area... so as long as that holds up this is a good solution. In fact breaking the part into a "top", "bottom", and "insert" could make the machine costs lower if people didn't want to use the 3D printed material. You'd have a local shop make up the insert part, and could cut the flats on your own. Nice job!I installed my sway bar! I'm very happy with the results. I didn't use machined adapters though.
I had considered simply cutting and drilling steel plates or large washers to clamp the bar to the D-shaped hole in the spring perch. This would securely attach the bar to each trailing arm, but without the machined adapter to position the bolt within the larger D-hole it felt sloppy.